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Old 12-10-2020, 06:46 PM   #1
Elvolvito
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Question Anyone know where to find main fuel pump connectors?

So I decided to take it upon myself to replace the old main fuel pump, as well as the fuel filter on my Ď88 240dl. However, upon taking it out, I noticed that some of the wiring connections were all messed up. I also managed to puncture the line that goes out of the fuel filter and over towards the engine (any idea how to fix or replace this?). Anyways, my main question being, where can I find the broken connectors? Iíve included some images so you guys can see what Iím talking about. about exactly.

https://imgur.com/a/dqKa8Sw
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Old 12-10-2020, 06:46 PM   #2
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The line that was punctured is the one depicted in the third image.
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:01 PM   #3
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Honestly, I’m having 3 different issues with that entire piece. Punctured fuel line, the broken connectors, and the fact that I can’t seem to get the filter or pump off. The pieces are so fckn tight and I’ve tried every single breaker bar I have.
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Old 12-10-2020, 09:16 PM   #4
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I would start by removing the entire support rack to clean up this mess. Cut the electrical, low pressure hose should come off. Then you can work on the other connections easier.

Those fuel hoses can be a real challenge to break.

Electrical connections can be fabricated even if not OEM.
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Old 12-10-2020, 09:56 PM   #5
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This: https://www.ebay.com/i/253859112053?...RoCrQcQAvD_BwE

Also you might prefer the other one listed for $19.88, assuming it would fit (says for '86 up 750/940 but looks like yours).
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Old 12-10-2020, 10:21 PM   #6
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Dave Barton has a great selection of OEM style connectors
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Old 12-10-2020, 10:43 PM   #7
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Second that.

Just ordered the same from Dave Barton, shipped quick and all the connectors you'd need.

Next is figuring where exactly they come up through the floor (i don't know..) or just splice in from below...
Anyone know how to get access to this section of harness if one wanted to replace the wires in full - and not splice?
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Old 12-10-2020, 11:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmscdgn View Post
Second that.

Just ordered the same from Dave Barton, shipped quick and all the connectors you'd need.

Next is figuring where exactly they come up through the floor (i don't know..) or just splice in from below...
Anyone know how to get access to this section of harness if one wanted to replace the wires in full - and not splice?
look under the rear seat
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Old 12-11-2020, 12:07 AM   #9
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Are you looking for this coupler? https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5026...171084-1312297
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Old 12-12-2020, 02:27 PM   #10
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Thank you everyone for the great responses. I think I’m just going to buy every single part new & just scrap all this old junk. I have a new filter sitting around & I got the main pump shipped on the way. I’m going to be ordering the fuel coupler & the necessary bolts soon. A moderator also contacted me with a spectacular offer for a used fuel line so I believe I’ll be going through with that as well. As for the electrical connections, the one Mr. V recommended seems pretty ideal.
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Old 12-12-2020, 03:12 PM   #11
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You can use penetrating oil on the fuel filter fitting. Also I use a impact driver with a large wrench to counter hold the fuel filter. Always counter hold the fuel filter so you avoid damaging the short hose that connects the filter to the pump. Although that short hose does have a tendency to split when being removed.
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Old 12-12-2020, 03:36 PM   #12
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Hint: if you break the plastic hose between the pump and filter I found a suitable replacement to be the 1/4 inch black plastic (fuel?) line sold at NAPA: just cut it to size, then heat it up a bit with a heat gun to expand it, then slide it over the two fittings.
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Old 12-14-2020, 02:36 PM   #13
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Easy to repair with new Nylon line once you get the hang of it.
All you need is a heat gun.
Hell I can mail you a piece or 2 of line if you need, just PM me.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:34 AM   #14
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I punctured this doing the exact same job. It's made of nylon tubing that can be bought your local auto parts store. You can remove the old piece by cutting it with a razor blade. Installing the new line takes a little bit of wiggling back and forth to get it all the way on.
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The line that was punctured is the one depicted in the third image.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:45 AM   #15
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He says he needs the line that goes from the fuel filter to the engine bay. Not the line that goes from the pump to the filter. You have to scroll over and you see the line he is asking about in the pic he posted.
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Old 12-15-2020, 02:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
You have to scroll over and you see the line he is asking about in the pic he posted.
Also says he broke the connector, when it's actually the "tower" the connector goes into.

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Old 12-15-2020, 02:39 AM   #17
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I wanna re-wire my main fuel pump. I'm tired of hearing it complain when I'm low on fuel. I also have a surging at high load that I need to address.

Maybe even do a relay-triggering-another-relay rig. What've y'all done?

You should also confirm life on your tank pump. Stick a hose in the filler hole and listen. Or just turn the key on while you have it all apart!
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
He says he needs the line that goes from the fuel filter to the engine bay. Not the line that goes from the pump to the filter. You have to scroll over and you see the line he is asking about in the pic he posted.
Should be the same story, able to be replaced with a longer piece of 5/16 Nylon in a similar fashion ya?
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-07...s%2C191&sr=8-3
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:58 PM   #19
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Little update: Main fuel pump came in yesterday, now just waiting on the fuel coupler, fuel line, & the new banjo bolts. As for the connectors, I didn’t realize that it was a part of the fuel pump itself. Thought it was an extension of the wires. I should be good on both the connections.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:59 PM   #20
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When I did my nylon repair the Oreilly's only had 9 feet in stock so I cut out two inches and returned it so it was free.
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Old 12-15-2020, 01:00 PM   #21
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Had to cut both the fuel coupler and my fuel line. I just couldn’t get those damn banjo bolts to come off without absolutely obliterating any connections around it.
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Old 12-15-2020, 02:11 PM   #22
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I bet my 1/2" impact and some lube woulda popped em right off.
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Old 12-15-2020, 02:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I bet my 1/2" impact and some lube woulda popped em right off.
That is how one should remove them. Wrench on the filter/pump flats, hit the banjo bolts with an impact gun. To do otherwise almost always results in kinking the line or worse. The banjo bolts literally fly off when hit with an impact gun. Don't replace them that way though.
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Old 12-16-2020, 11:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I bet my 1/2" impact and some lube woulda popped em right off.
Sounds like a plan, ..I think mine finally came free w/out damage by tapping on a box end while holding filter w/ an open end, but the impact sounds faster/less chance for error ?

As far as funky pump noises, I have almost nevr noticd much noise on the original Bosch pumps. In my case, the noise always came after installing Airtex or anther aftermrkt brand.

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Old 12-20-2020, 10:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
You should also confirm life on your tank pump. Stick a hose in the filler hole and listen. Or just turn the key on while you have it all apart!
Recall Clean Flame Trap detailed this very issue(his clever clear hose in-tank test illustration has apparently since vanished...) by running a clear hose from the tank outlet pipe to the tank filler neck. Again, it's another example TB ingenuity at it's best, a method which allows observation of fuel flow and creates minimal mess/wasted fuel.

I know for the OP, it's some extra work but, since everything is torn apart why not verify fuel flow ?


Last edited by Otto Mattik; 12-21-2020 at 02:44 AM.. Reason: clarity grammer
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