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LH2.4 trigger wheel?

D.E

D.E

tvåförti
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Location
Mora, Sweden
Since I don't feel like drilling my block for the sensor and I want to run a flat B23 flywheel on my new LH2.4 turbo engine I'm toying with the idea of simply drilling and tapping my crank pulley for a generic laser-cut 138mm 60-2 trigger wheel.

Is there any problem with this? Can a regular Volvo sensor read a 30mm wheel?

How do I time it correctly? I assume you can just zero it to where the LH2.4 flywheel is in the position where the sensor is on the blank space then put the front trigger on in that position.

Thanks in advance...
 
Yup, that's what I was going to buy. Actually, it was from KL Racing as well. Just wondering if someone had tried it and if it worked well.

Edit: I was thinking of just drilling my existing pulley though since I'm cheap. :lol: And I have a B23 so the pulley doesn't fit anyway.
 
Last edited:
Alex and I have done that with a whiteblock. It worked fine with the stock sensor.

You'll have to be careful to make sure you clock it correctly. Build the bracket so the sensor can be adjusted, since you probably won't get it perfect, and the only way to adjust base timing is to move the sensor.
 
thread ressurection.

i want to do same thing(as i plan to convert my B23E k jetz to lh 2.4) and i asked kl racing directly if their 60_2 trigger wheel will work with LH.
they replied that those trigger wheels will not work wit LH. i asked why, but no reply came back..
does anyone have an idea why it wont work?
thx
 
The LH2.4 flywheel/flexplate have solid metal in the 60-2 missing tooth region. The aftermarket 60-2 wheel has a gap (no metal) in the missing tooth region. I think this will still work OK if you swap the +/- leads from the CPS VR sensor AND adjust the sensor position by half-a-tooth. Maybe someone here can confirm???

LH2_4_flex_plate.jpg


I know that lookforjoe filled in the missing tooth region on his non-volvo install, but it wasn't clear if this was in response to actual problems or just reports of a flywheel with a similar missing tooth pattern not working:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=287824&page=3
 
bobxyz said:
The LH2.4 flywheel/flexplate have solid metal in the 60-2 missing tooth region. The aftermarket 60-2 wheel has a gap (no metal) in the missing tooth region. I think this will still work OK if you swap the +/- leads from the CPS VR sensor AND adjust the sensor position by half-a-tooth. Maybe someone here can confirm???

LH2_4_flex_plate.jpg


I know that lookforjoe filled in the missing tooth region on his non-volvo install, but it wasn't clear if this was in response to actual problems or just reports of a flywheel with a similar missing tooth pattern not working:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=287824&page=3
Click to expand...

thx for input.
yeah i was thinking about this gap vs. no gap thing.. just wasnt sure..
hopefully, someone will chime in and tell us more
 
Other options:
Use a LH2.2 EZK and distributor with an LH2.4 fuel computer.
Use a flat flywheel with a 60-2 cut in to it and a stock LH2.4 crank sensor.
 
Karl Buchka said:
Other options:
Use a LH2.2 EZK and distributor with an LH2.4 fuel computer.
Use a flat flywheel with a 60-2 cut in to it and a stock LH2.4 crank sensor.
Click to expand...

thx for input Karl,
but im not able to source any LH 2.2 car in this country and as for flat flywheel modification.. yes i was thinking about it and i also contacted two machineshops in my area,but i was told this mod and balancing would be over 320?. so also not an option.
anyways we already found a solution, but all i wanted to know is why the KL racing trigger wheel would not work with LH.. but ok, lets assume it becasue of that huge gap.
 
Karl Buchka said:
Other options:
Use a LH2.2 EZK and distributor with an LH2.4 fuel computer.
Use a flat flywheel with a 60-2 cut in to it and a stock LH2.4 crank sensor.
Click to expand...

Thank you! This thread made me think about using LH2.4 on my B21FT and was wondering how I would get the ignition to trigger without the crank sensor.
 
bobxyz said:
The LH2.4 flywheel/flexplate have solid metal in the 60-2 missing tooth region. The aftermarket 60-2 wheel has a gap (no metal) in the missing tooth region. I think this will still work OK if you swap the +/- leads from the CPS VR sensor AND adjust the sensor position by half-a-tooth. Maybe someone here can confirm???

LH2_4_flex_plate.jpg


I know that lookforjoe filled in the missing tooth region on his non-volvo install, but it wasn't clear if this was in response to actual problems or just reports of a flywheel with a similar missing tooth pattern not working:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=287824&page=3
Click to expand...

Just to update this for posterity - in my case it was because the aftermarket crank wheel did not have the filled in long tooth, I had to add it.

X19_LH24_00001w.jpg


Took several tries as I didn't factor the gap ? into the filler at first, and then I used braising rod, which messed with the signal. Once it was filled in correctly with steel, it worked with LH2.4/EZK

X19_LH24_00004.jpg


X19_LH24_00030.jpg
 
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