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Old 08-26-2018, 10:08 PM   #676
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Nope, both Chris and myself are on 2pc with the Aerostar yoke.

Interesting that things got worse, could be the center bearing. VERY interesting on the runout. Makes me want to pull mine apart again, check everything out on it. Probably do that when the motor comes out for a proper build though.
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:32 PM   #677
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Nope, both Chris and myself are on 2pc with the Aerostar yoke.

Interesting that things got worse, could be the center bearing. VERY interesting on the runout. Makes me want to pull mine apart again, check everything out on it. Probably do that when the motor comes out for a proper build though.
Oh, I thought Chris had an Aerostar 1 piece. Anyway, I guess it can't be narrowed down to the yoke itself. I'll pull the back half of the drive shaft and put the old bearing back on, even though it seems to have gotten rid of the shudder taking off it 1st.

It's weird that these vibes seem to be an entirely different issue than before. With the old setup, I could coast at pretty much any speed and the vibes would disappear. Now it's completely speed dependent, and anything above 30 mph produces a terrible vibration even in neutral.
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:18 PM   #678
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That does sound like a different issue altogether. Mine and Ryan's the vibe goes away in neutral. The fact yours stays says driveline, not trans side of things. Might be worth double-checking angles. The new center bearing could have things located different than the old bearing.

Is the engine speed related vibration gone now, after centering the adapter to the crank centerline?
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:18 AM   #679
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Yeah, this new thing is drive shaft related, and different than the their stuff. The center support has the bearing in basically the exact same place. I’ll just start changing things back to the way it was, I guess.

I only got a few blocks from my house, and I couldn’t tell if any of the other trans issues were still there.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:58 AM   #680
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Oh, I thought Chris had an Aerostar 1 piece.
I do have the single piece Aerostar driveshaft in my car, with the smaller Aerostar dampener for the record.

It's a bummer about all the work you're doing to come up snake eyes on the NVH, after all my research, I still haven't found a "smoking gun" in regards to that stuff.
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:18 AM   #681
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You've probably already mentioned this, but what is your pinion angle? Also how are your torque rod bushings?
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:55 AM   #682
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I do have the single piece Aerostar driveshaft in my car, with the smaller Aerostar dampener for the record.

It's a bummer about all the work you're doing to come up snake eyes on the NVH, after all my research, I still haven't found a "smoking gun" in regards to that stuff.
I still don't know if some of the original issues went away or not. The new drive shaft vibration is a completely different problem than before. I don't have very high hopes for those old issues, although the T5 rattle at idle was substantially quieter.

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You've probably already mentioned this, but what is your pinion angle? Also how are your torque rod bushings?
My pinion is now pointing up in the front 1.8*. My u-joint operating angles from front to back are:

1.9*
1.3*
1.4*

Those angles are decent, and besides, they are the same as before I put the yoke and center bearing in. And before, I only had transmission based vibes (rpm dependent), where now I clearly have drive shaft vibes (speed dependent, in neutral).

Edit: Torque rod bushings are old, but still solid. I was going to put replace them when I made the rods adjustable, but they looked and acted fine.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:01 PM   #683
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Hey, stupid question here. Have you checked the runout on the driveshaft? I remember going thru hell after having one repaired in town. Even though it balanced out I couldn't get the shop to understand that runout also plays into vibration. The one they retubed had an end that wasn't centered up, had about .060" runout! They refused to admit it was an issue so I took the hit, bought a used one from the yard from a 760 which has the balancer as well. Dropped that in, vibration was completely gone. The shop wouldn't reimburse me so I ended up just grabbing the new bearing and scrapping the damn thing.

Toss it in the air, dial indicator on the tube right by each yoke and the middle of each run of tube. Should be within .015" max I believe.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:32 PM   #684
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Hey, stupid question here. Have you checked the runout on the driveshaft? I remember going thru hell after having one repaired in town. Even though it balanced out I couldn't get the shop to understand that runout also plays into vibration. The one they retubed had an end that wasn't centered up, had about .060" runout! They refused to admit it was an issue so I took the hit, bought a used one from the yard from a 760 which has the balancer as well. Dropped that in, vibration was completely gone. The shop wouldn't reimburse me so I ended up just grabbing the new bearing and scrapping the damn thing.

Toss it in the air, dial indicator on the tube right by each yoke and the middle of each run of tube. Should be within .015" max I believe.
I'll check it. Maybe it's always had some runout, but the center bearing and/or yoke is exacerbating the problem. I got under there this morning and flipped the center bearing around, which brought the middle u-joint down a few millimeters. Still had vibes, and I got on it a little bit and the yoke was scraping the tunnel. I am pretty ready to just pull the entire drive shaft and return it to how it was.

At least now I can wholeheartedly say that I hate T5s.
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:07 PM   #685
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Well, I got rid of the new drive shaft vibration. I guess the Spicer center support is too stiff for the old worn out slip joint between the two shaft halves. I put the old center support back in, and shoved a little more grease into the splines, and the vibe is completely gone. Part of me wonders what would have happened if I'd have just re-greased the splines and left the Spicer center support, but here we are.

I can also report that NONE of the old T5 issues have been resolved. If anything, certain rpm dependent vibes seem a touch worse with the damped slip yoke. I'm going to try to scoot the trans over about 10mm to better center the yoke in the tunnel, but I doubt it'll help. I think I'll end up using the old un damped slip yoke so I can raise the trans mount up another 10mm.

Anyway, the moral is this: don't measure your bell housing runout, and listen to everyone who says T5s suck for a street car.

Here's a list of what still needs to be done before the 13th (mostly just to keep me accountable):
  • Install Kaplhenke adjustable rear spring perches
  • Bleed brakes
  • Make another downpipe bracket (previous 2 cracked)
  • New battery
  • 15x7 steelies with 225/50r15 Toyo R888Rs
  • Hope the EZ Electric Power steering column gets here, or else I won't be turning those sticky front tires...
  • 3" shifter extension for maximum ergonomics
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:12 AM   #686
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Well now, guess I probably don't need to check into the BH alignment then if it made no difference. Good to know the Pennzoil made no difference as well. Well, good to know that I don't get to be the one to spend money and find no difference. I do need to look into specs on the Amsoil, see how it does with temperature vs others out there, if it's worth messing with.

thanks for being the guinea pig and actually digging into this stuff man!
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:22 AM   #687
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Well now, guess I probably don't need to check into the BH alignment then if it made no difference. Good to know the Pennzoil made no difference as well. Well, good to know that I don't get to be the one to spend money and find no difference. I do need to look into specs on the Amsoil, see how it does with temperature vs others out there, if it's worth messing with.

thanks for being the guinea pig and actually digging into this stuff man!
I was pretty sure this would be the case, but for some reason I had to do it. I think that if anything, the Pennzoil may have quieted down the idle rattle, but just barely. I may just keep working up the viscosity chart that I posted a few pages back until shifting suffers. Thicker fluid has to help.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:42 AM   #688
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It definitely did help mine, going from the multi-car M1 to the Redline, which is thicker looking at the hot and cold specs.
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:28 PM   #689
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It definitely did help mine, going from the multi-car M1 to the Redline, which is thicker looking at the hot and cold specs.
Are you using Redline MTF or MT-90?
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:07 PM   #690
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I'm on their High Temp ATF. Thickest stuff I could find that qualified as a Dex3 instead of the normal Dex6 stuff on the market now.
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:33 AM   #691
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Nothing big to report, other than having completed another big rally with the DWA! crew. These events are super fun, and I can highly recommend them for anyone who enjoys spirited driving with a bunch of other weird car people. This time Ryan came out with his black 242 turbo, so old bricks were decently represented. In three days, it was about a 1,000 mile trip with a solid 700 of that on some really fun driving roads.

This was on day 1, after driving in a group with Jason Cammisa's bad ass Scirocco, a couple transaxle Porsches, and a few E30s.




I did a few things in preparation. Mainly, I wanted to get more airflow to my radiator, since I knew it could be warm up in Northern California in September.

I have had no luck finding a late 140 nose panel with the vents, so I just hacked mine up. It already had a few dents, and a touch of Bondo from the 90's, so I wasn't too worried about it.



Once the holes were drilled, I had to make a scoop to direct the air upward toward the radiator. I bent, cut, and welded this contraption together.



Then painted it with undercoating.



It definitely gets more fresh air to the radiator, and it comes in under the intercooler, so it's as cool as it can be. I don't know how much it helps, but it has to do something.

I also wanted to cover the top of the radiator, since about 2-3 inches of it was sticking up into the engine bay, sucking in hot air. I bent some sheet metal up and made this for it.



I want to smooth out the edges where it's welded to the stock panel. I may try to mess around with Bondo for that at some point. I ran out of time the day I was leaving for the rally, so I shot it with some terrible black spray paint and called it good.

I also got some new wheels and tires. 15x7 Corsa Velocita steelies, with 225/50r15 Toyo Proxes R888r. The plan is to do some autocrossing with the car eventually, but I also wanted to try some sticky tires out for the rally. They are insane. I probably used up 1/3 of the tread in this one drive, but the grip was worth it. Since the rally, I've put my Ford wheels back on and will save the Toyos for an autocross or maybe another fun drive. And yes, that's a Polaris Slingshot behind my car. It was rented as a joke for one of the organizers, but people ended up kind of loving it.



There's always a short dirt section on these rallies, and once again, my car is filthy.

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Old 10-03-2018, 11:46 AM   #692
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Most excellent! I'm really thinking about giving 50 series a try on my Amazon after seeing your car and Josh's 911. Just means I'll have to lower it about an inch to make it look not so goofy. I've been running 60 series for years but performance tires generally aren't available in 15's in that profile.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:11 PM   #693
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Most excellent! I'm really thinking about giving 50 series a try on my Amazon after seeing your car and Josh's 911. Just means I'll have to lower it about an inch to make it look not so goofy. I've been running 60 series for years but performance tires generally aren't available in 15's in that profile.
60s are nice on comfy, but I like the shorter sidewalls when throwing the car around. I don't know about 205/50 on 15s, though. That's around a 23" tire. Both my 225/50r15 and my 205/50r16 are around 24".
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:32 PM   #694
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60s are nice on comfy, but I like the shorter sidewalls when throwing the car around. I don't know about 205/50 on 15s, though. That's around a 23" tire. Both my 225/50r15 and my 205/50r16 are around 24".
I agree, I was actually going to consider stuffing 225's all the way around, or possibly 215's. Again, I'll probably start running into limited availability on sizing. I really wanted to give the Hoosier Speedster DOT slicks a try but they are a little spendy.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:40 PM   #695
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What does your catch can drain to ?
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:43 PM   #696
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What does your catch can drain to ?
Nothing. It barely catches anything. I've emptied it once in like 8k miles and it had about an ounce of oil in it.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:48 PM   #697
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Nothing. It barely catches anything. I've emptied it once in like 8k miles and it had about an ounce of oil in it.
Even in winter ?
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:33 PM   #698
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Even in winter ?
Yeah.
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Old 10-04-2018, 04:41 PM   #699
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Nice, sounds like a great trip. Beautiful pictures.

Oh and R888 = grip!
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Old 10-08-2018, 08:11 AM   #700
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I absolutely LOVE this shot:





There's something about an old car with faded paint and serious sticky tyres under it. Nice. Reminds me of my ute wearing R888s. Overheard in a car meet once "What does that piece of sh|t need semi slicks for?" then they looked under the bonnet
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