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Old 04-20-2017, 03:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
A flat lobe will be obvious.
Yep, by the time it's flat enough to make a noticeable driving issue, it's BLATANTLY obvious. No need to measure, it will stick out like a sore thumb. Unplug the coil, take off the valve cover, crank it round and round a few times.

If you measured the lifts carefully, you might get lucky every once in a blue moon and catch a lobe in the middle of going flat, but that's usualy a fairly short amount of time. Once the finish is gone, and it's worn past the hardened surface, it just carves on through the rest of the lobe like buttah.
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Old 04-20-2017, 03:31 PM   #27
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Sad. You should have received a working product.
Agreed. That was my last time trusting John. I gave him chance after chance. This last time he contacted ME. It was almost like he was apologizing for making me wait forever last time. He kept following up until I agreed to send the head to him. Then, as before, I had to start calling him, threatening legal action, the police, etc. That wakes him up from email blackouts, but then it's a blackout again for weeks. Pity, really a super nice guy on the phone and seems to know endless amounts about performance Volvo. But then there are guys like hiperfauto who actually write back and seem to care AFTER you get off the phone. Imagine that, a vendor who cares about your business? Just really liked the HSR carbs John sells. They just work amazingly well and, after my experience with the stock carbs, I welcomed modern carbs gladly. I think John is just swamped with work and racing projects. I mean, like 5 years of backlogged work. But needs cash to keep the lights on, so takes a job here and there to keep money rolling in, but really cannot reliably carve off time for killer piece work. That's my $.02. I'm with you, cannot recommend anymore.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:13 PM   #28
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Only took me a year to get the head I have, but it was back when his work was still legit. Sad to hear his quality has gone downhill as well, but not totally surprised.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:13 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Take the valve cover off and inspect the valves and springs for anything out of the ordinary. Are all the valves the same height? Are there any broken springs? Are all the guides sticking out of the head the same amount? Can you wiggle any of the valves? Then crank the engine with the ignition disabled and see if they're all opening the same amount. A flat lobe will be obvious.
Results:
No cam lateral or longitudinal wiggle. I got that right I guess
All valve stems about same height, within 1-2mm across all
No visible broken valve springs, caps, keepers, mushroomed stems, looks clean. Looked for 5 minutes for even a hairline crack
Can't rock or wiggle any valve spring/valve
Rockers not great but fine for running, no cupping
Compression:
#2,3,4 115-117 psi dead on, DRY
#1... 30,60,90 (usually ~30) psi on multiple tests DRY
Add teaspoon of oil, NO CHANGE

So, this means the #1 or #2 valve , which is where the tapping is coming from, is not seating right?
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:50 PM   #30
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Sounds like that head is coming off...
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:00 PM   #31
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You could do a leak down test to see which one is leaking, but basically you're pulling the head at this point anyhow.
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:20 PM   #32
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Hate to say this but John Parker is sketch on his work. He used to be really good, but has really fallen off. Doesn't deliver parts, half assed jobs, etc. I have a few friends with pushrod motors that sent him things with extremely mixed results. Check everything like Hiperfauto said. Sad. You should have received a working product.
This.
There's much better machine work to be found locally, even from a Napa machine shop.
It's a cast iron 4 cylinder, it's not rocket science.
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:05 PM   #33
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Update:
Got a set of nice reconditioned rockers from hiperfauto. The car idles much better, but sadly the clacking/tapping is still there. I would have been shocked otherwise, but they had to be replaced in any case. Adjusted to precisely .41mm +-.01mm. I think I roached out the cam. During the break-in. I ran the car for 5 minutes at 1500 revs with ZDDP additive and redline assembly line on everything. But maybe because of the dual springs, it needed more.
I'll check the movement with a dial indicator, but I'm pretty sure that's what's up. If I had a stuck valve or dropped seat, I'd see other problems I think. It runs fine, plenty of power, just clacks like hell.
You can hear it in the cabin. And the fact that it gets progressively worse over time too. So, I think it's worn lobe(s)

Anyone have a cam recommendation for carbs? This was a new Crane cam from J Parker. With new lifters and rods.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:29 PM   #34
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Is there any chance you have a cracked exhaust manifold? Or a bad gasket?
I had the exhaust gaskets go out on my 740 and I swore it was something much more serious.

Maybe you could do a smoke test.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:38 PM   #35
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No personal experience with performance valve springs, but I've read that you should break in the cam with standard valve springs. Also, you should run the car at 2000 RPM's for 20 minutes, using a break-in oil with ZDDP, which it sound like you did.
After 20 minutes, change the oil & filter and drive lightly for 500 miles, then repeat the oil & filter change.
That sucks, man, hopefully not a flattened lobe.
I'm going to be changing my cam and having valves, new springs, etc. sometime this summer. I'm going to use standard valve springs though.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:55 PM   #36
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Schneider cams has some good looking numbers, I've never used one but when I decide to nut up, I'm going to have them run me a custom order for moar boost
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:17 PM   #37
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Update:
I found the WORST thing you can find in any motor - or anything for that matter... Absolutely NOTHING.
Solvent leakdown: zero loss
Valve springs, caps, base washers intact, not broken
"" guides, intact, stable, nothing loose
"" seats, intact, no evidence of loose anything. No cracks or nicks even.

Pushrods look new, no visible bending, but will roll each one.
Lifters show zero wear. They look new on the bottom, no dishing, no gouging or galling or any wear. One had the tiniest little abrasion, maybe during break-in something moved through there
Head gasket show no signs of compression chamber leak, coolant leak.
Manifold gasket shows no signs of exhaust leak. Exhaust leaks sound like ticks in my experience, this is a rapping, clacking.
No sign of piston slap, walls look good, cross hatch still there. A bit too much carbon is all I found. John P had sent me bigger mains, and the AFR was at 12:1 for the first 50 or so miles, I dropped them back and now get 13-14 at cruise, 14.7 at idle.

Is it possible that the cam is wrecked but there is no visible damage to the lifter faces?

I was really, really hoping for a positive answer. Something bad that jumped right out. This thing makes a HELL of racket. Could it be the alternator or water pump clacking all the way back to the #2 cyl vavles? :(
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:56 PM   #38
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One thing I noticed. They had upgraded to steel timing gears. The cam gear did not require pressing. It slid right on, into the key. I torqued it to 105ftlbs I think, per the spec in my 71 manual
Hmmm. I know failing fiber gears could sound like a rod knock. Fooled me once.
Not sure about the steel gears.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:03 PM   #39
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^That must have been a really worn out gear!
That worn out usually they'd backfire on me and the ignition timing would be all over the place until it finally wouldn't start/blew out the map grenade/k-jet boot.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:34 PM   #40
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One thing I found today, that I doubt matters, but..

A member on this post suggest that I look for cam movement, lateral in the cam bearings. I said there was none. But now, with the head off and no tension on the lifters, there IS a bit of play. About 1mm or so, not much but something.
Also, spun the water pump and alternator, not coming from there. That is all tight. The alternator is a bit long in the tooth, but not tapping. at least when spinning freely.

I did not replace the cam bearings as this motor was 'rebuilt' 3K miles ago. I have the paperwork. The cam bearings were replaced then. The cam felt smooth when sliding in, but could it be worn out and flexing in the middle bearing?

I guess I have no choice but the pull the whole motor and start over. The head does not seem to be likely the culprit although when I used the stethoscope, the tapping seemed to be coming RIGHT from the 3rd valve (#2 intake). It was LOUD and clear there with the rocker cover off and running. You could feel the clacking, not just hear it. Pity because this car was not a weekend thing, it was my son's daily driver and he is moving out to go to college in the morning. :( Guess it's time to pull it out and start a full teardown - 2 weeks after the last one. Something is bad in there.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:18 PM   #41
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Man, that really sucks. You'd rather find something, but everything is checking out.
Good luck. I hope it turns out OK for you.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:43 PM   #42
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Isn't the fuel pump in that area?
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:53 AM   #43
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Hmm, is it possible the fuel pump lobe is machined wrong, so it's tapping on the pump lever?

Sucks you didn't find anything, that just makes it that much worse!

1mm seems a bit much on cam movement, shouldn't be THAT bad though...
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:45 AM   #44
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Hmm, is it possible the fuel pump lobe is machined wrong, so it's tapping on the pump lever?

Sucks you didn't find anything, that just makes it that much worse!

1mm seems a bit much on cam movement, shouldn't be THAT bad though...
No, I use an electric fuel pump. Just the cover there. The noise is all up top. Silent at the bottom near the cam.

Going to measure the cam lobes today. Only things left to make this kind of tapping are the cam, timing gears and the pistons. Starting to think there is a hole or large crack in the exhaust manifold. There was a crack when I got the car, and it did not make this noise. I drilled the ends of the crack, v-ed out the crack and brazed it. I guess it could have reopened or spread. Maybe it was the exhaust all along. It's wrapped with exhaust tape so I can't see if there is a leak.
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:26 AM   #45
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A little late now of course. But here's the old school, shade tree, sludge hammer mechanic, method my dad showed me for finding an exhaust leak.
With the engine running dump diesel fuel, or something ,down the carb. Something that'll make it smoke like crazy. Then you'll see the leaks.
Of course we were working on an American car with a down draft carburetor, which facilities dumping things in much better than side drafts.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:27 PM   #46
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Well.. I finally found something. The crack I had brazed last year, then covered with exhaust wrap, has developed new cracks. Took it off, took off the wrap and sprayed water up the throat.. Massive leaks all around the old crack. The braze held, but it wasn't enough to stop more cracks. Effectively, the whole arm leading to #3 and #4 is compromised. Still can't imagine that leaking gasses could cause rough idle and tapping, but it's at least something.

Worth repairing or should I search around for a better one? Love to get a header and do away with this cast iron or cast steel monster.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:39 PM   #47
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http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=331720
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:27 PM   #48
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With all due respect to that seller, he's selling a botched up exhaust header for $90 more than it cost new.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...olvo/model/122
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:04 PM   #49
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I glad it's not the cam or a rod. If you want to stay with a cast iron exhaust, I'm sure Ken (Redwood Chair) or Jack (Jack) would have a good one.
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:19 PM   #50
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There was that one time my 16VT motor developed a somewhat annoying rap/rap/rap noise. Just a bit more 'solid' sounding than a tapping valve. First I replaced all the hydraulic valve lifters (since I was pretty damn sure that was the problem), but no change at all. Tap tap tap tap.


So I pulled the motor and took it apart and found a broken wrist pin. I'd apparently been ----> <-----that close to blowing the thing up. I drove it about 10 miles home from where I first heard it tapping, including some 24 psi blasts along the way. How did that one-legged piston hold together? Dunno.
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