Clutch cable - different M46/M45?

mtd240 · 05-10-2017, 05:12 PM

Hey guys - have a '78 242 with a '90 B230f and an M46 from a late 80s 740 (not sure of the exact year, or if it really matters).

Everything is together, engine runs great. Something is off with the clutch though. It was on the floor when I installed the clutch cable (as-is), without adjusting. After adjusting it ALL THE WAY out, the pedal is up in the normal position but it still isn't disengaging the clutch.

My main question: Do I have the wrong clutch cable? I'm pretty sure it's from an M46 (bought it from KJets On A Plane a while back).
Second question: Is there supposed to be a rubber damper/block of some sort where the cable attaches to the clutch fork? I know the M47 uses one - not sure about the M46.

EivlEvo · 05-10-2017, 05:23 PM

In your second pic it looks like the rubber "bushing" that would go between the cable ball end, and the infamous "block of iron" damper is gone. Additionally, you do not have the iron damper. Now... I'm not certain that these are actually "necessary" as the goal is effectively to be able to actuate your clutch fork/PP.

But they're not in those pictures.

You can see the rubber bushing and the metal hunk dampener in this photo.

Finally, I did an entire writeup on this job... should you decide to grab one of the mediocre aftermarket ones, know that there are two sizes and that the manufacturers and distributors are in general, unaware of this.

hiperfauto · 05-10-2017, 06:38 PM

The block of iron is a counterweight used on turbos and diesels. The rest got the standard rubber bushing (30) and metal washer (32).

esmth · 05-10-2017, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

The block of iron is a counterweight used on turbos and diesels. The rest got the standard rubber bushing (30) and metal washer (32).

the N/A 1986 245 I pulled all my m46 swap parts had the iron block

hiperfauto · 05-10-2017, 06:51 PM

There's a smaller counterweight (29a) that was used on the later cars after a certain chassis #. It wasn't in the '79-'84 catalog that first pic came from.

oldschoolvolvo · 05-10-2017, 08:29 PM

Interesting...I never knew about the "iron dampener"...I don't fully follow what benefit it adds...less vibration in the clutch pedal (not that there is much there to begin with)?

mtd240 · 05-10-2017, 08:52 PM

Either way, still need to know if I've got the right clutch cable or not. I suppose adding the damper (or any sort of washer) will give me more clutch cable adjustment to play with.

hiperfauto · 05-10-2017, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtd240

Either way, still need to know if I've got the right clutch cable or not. I suppose adding the damper (or any sort of washer) will give me more clutch cable adjustment to play with.

This, the rubber spacer and washer will move the adjustment farther up the cable.

EivlEvo · 05-11-2017, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

This, the rubber spacer and washer will move the adjustment farther up the cable.

My 87 244 M47 had the parts I pictured stock as far as I know.

Kjets On a Plane · 05-14-2017, 07:38 PM

Do yourself a big favor and Throw that aftermarket plastic adjuster horrible awful cable in the trash (or trunk in case of possible remote dire emergency where something is better than nothing) before it pulls thru the firewall, wears out the clutch pedal or god knows what.
They stretch and require constant adjustment from day 1 and the adjustment range isn't ever very useful or quite right. They also bind and never operate as smoothly as OE. The nice OE metal sheath cables are NLA. I most certainly didn't and would wish one of those cables on my own worst enemy.

Apart from diesel (different pedal end more like a 700 with the rubber damper on the pedal end as well as the trans) and I believe the 84.5 240tic with the stiff pressure plate but flat flywheel still and heavy foot stomper clutch, 240s m45/6/7 take the same cable otherwise Of the LHD 4-cylinder SOHC engine cars to my knowledge.

The 140 cables last well and have that elegant "hook" design on the pedal as opposed to the pin that you have to grease and lube or else it will cause weird wear that opens up the hole in the pedal or snaps the cable prematurely.

Good luck.

EivlEvo · 05-15-2017, 10:10 AM

Wait, Kjets are you saying we can use the 140 cables?

And/or what other options for cables do we have? I'm using one of those plastic cables and it's... not ideal to adjust... getting ready to swap T5 into auto... so now is a good time to swap out if I can.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane

Do yourself a big favor and Throw that aftermarket plastic adjuster horrible awful cable in the trash (or trunk in case of possible remote dire emergency where something is better than nothing) before it pulls thru the firewall, wears out the clutch pedal or god knows what.
They stretch and require constant adjustment from day 1 and the adjustment range isn't ever very useful or quite right. They also bind and never operate as smoothly as OE. The nice OE metal sheath cables are NLA. I most certainly didn't and would wish one of those cables on my own worst enemy.

Apart from diesel (different pedal end more like a 700 with the rubber damper on the pedal end as well as the trans) and I believe the 84.5 240tic with the stiff pressure plate but flat flywheel still and heavy foot stomper clutch, 240s m45/6/7 take the same cable otherwise Of the LHD 4-cylinder SOHC engine cars to my knowledge.

The 140 cables last well and have that elegant "hook" design on the pedal as opposed to the pin that you have to grease and lube or else it will cause weird wear that opens up the hole in the pedal or snaps the cable prematurely.

Good luck.

mtd240 · 05-15-2017, 11:10 AM

Thanks, got any good sources for the old-school cables? Guess it would have to be used.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane

Do yourself a big favor and Throw that aftermarket plastic adjuster horrible awful cable in the trash (or trunk in case of possible remote dire emergency where something is better than nothing) before it pulls thru the firewall, wears out the clutch pedal or god knows what.
They stretch and require constant adjustment from day 1 and the adjustment range isn't ever very useful or quite right. They also bind and never operate as smoothly as OE. The nice OE metal sheath cables are NLA. I most certainly didn't and would wish one of those cables on my own worst enemy.

Apart from diesel (different pedal end more like a 700 with the rubber damper on the pedal end as well as the trans) and I believe the 84.5 240tic with the stiff pressure plate but flat flywheel still and heavy foot stomper clutch, 240s m45/6/7 take the same cable otherwise Of the LHD 4-cylinder SOHC engine cars to my knowledge.

The 140 cables last well and have that elegant "hook" design on the pedal as opposed to the pin that you have to grease and lube or else it will cause weird wear that opens up the hole in the pedal or snaps the cable prematurely.

Good luck.

Kjets On a Plane · 05-15-2017, 02:41 PM

I have good used metal sheath cables with the sliding self-lubricating liner in good shape...

I was just commenting on the design of the oe 140 cable, never tried to fit it to a 240 and it most certainly doesn't fit as-is and the correct fitting oe 140 cable is nla anyway.

That was just a side note.

05-10-2017, 05:12 PM	#1
mtd240 Bored Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Brookeville, MD	Clutch cable - different M46/M45? Hey guys - have a '78 242 with a '90 B230f and an M46 from a late 80s 740 (not sure of the exact year, or if it really matters). Everything is together, engine runs great. Something is off with the clutch though. It was on the floor when I installed the clutch cable (as-is), without adjusting. After adjusting it ALL THE WAY out, the pedal is up in the normal position but it still isn't disengaging the clutch. My main question: Do I have the wrong clutch cable? I'm pretty sure it's from an M46 (bought it from KJets On A Plane a while back). Second question: Is there supposed to be a rubber damper/block of some sort where the cable attaches to the clutch fork? I know the M47 uses one - not sure about the M46. __________________ 1990 245DL M47 LH3.1 - 344,000 Miles 1989 244DL AW71 LH2.4 - Sold 1998 V70XC - Sold Last edited by mtd240; 05-10-2017 at 05:27 PM..

05-10-2017, 06:38 PM	#3
hiperfauto Board Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: So Cal	The block of iron is a counterweight used on turbos and diesels. The rest got the standard rubber bushing (30) and metal washer (32). __________________ 240 Alcantara Shift Boot Cover (164 & 72- 140 too) Rare, Race & R-Sports Parts Colored B/S Brake Hoses 140/160 and more Volvo Advertising Stuff -

05-10-2017, 08:29 PM	#6
oldschoolvolvo Board Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Lancaster, PA	Interesting...I never knew about the "iron dampener"...I don't fully follow what benefit it adds...less vibration in the clutch pedal (not that there is much there to begin with)? __________________ -Mike ~~1998 V70 T5~~ 1979 242 DL+T \|Project Thread\| \|Feedback\|

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05-10-2017, 05:23 PM	#2
EivlEvo Board Member Join Date: Sep 2012	In your second pic it looks like the rubber "bushing" that would go between the cable ball end, and the infamous "block of iron" damper is gone. Additionally, you do not have the iron damper. Now... I'm not certain that these are actually "necessary" as the goal is effectively to be able to actuate your clutch fork/PP. But they're not in those pictures. You can see the rubber bushing and the metal hunk dampener in this photo. Finally, I did an entire writeup on this job... should you decide to grab one of the mediocre aftermarket ones, know that there are two sizes and that the manufacturers and distributors are in general, unaware of this.

05-10-2017, 06:51 PM	#5
hiperfauto Board Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: So Cal	There's a smaller counterweight (29a) that was used on the later cars after a certain chassis #. It wasn't in the '79-'84 catalog that first pic came from.

05-10-2017, 08:52 PM	#7
mtd240 Bored Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Brookeville, MD	Either way, still need to know if I've got the right clutch cable or not. I suppose adding the damper (or any sort of washer) will give me more clutch cable adjustment to play with.

05-15-2017, 02:41 PM	#13
Kjets On a Plane Devoid of Luxury Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: SoCal Rat-Racer/Douche/Rich Puke Playground, Formerly Pacific Wonderland	I have good used metal sheath cables with the sliding self-lubricating liner in good shape... I was just commenting on the design of the oe 140 cable, never tried to fit it to a 240 and it most certainly doesn't fit as-is and the correct fitting oe 140 cable is nla anyway. That was just a side note.