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Kyle's RWD Experience, '84 242 TI

Correct! The AC switch is wired into the low speed for the radiator fan. I wanted to have a switch in ever blank lol.

A keen eye will notice that only the tach is indicating anything, it doesn't reset to zero when you cut the car off. Since its a stepper motor it just stops where it is, then resets next key cycle.

Since it was the cars first time at the dragon I figured I'd spend $6 on a photo:
1499463_zps0m6iwyti.jpg
 
That looks cool!

Kudos for using Stack gauges! They, in my opinion, are really good quality and well priced for what you get. I am planning to redo the gauge cluster in my 242 whenever i am done with the rest and use the original cluster, just rearrange the stuff so i can have a tach where the speedo used to be and have the speedo where the tach was etc and so on ;)

Good stuff! :)

Adam
 
stick70 said:
Correct! The AC switch is wired into the low speed for the radiator fan. I wanted to have a switch in ever blank lol.

A keen eye will notice that only the tach is indicating anything, it doesn't reset to zero when you cut the car off. Since its a stepper motor it just stops where it is, then resets next key cycle.

Since it was the cars first time at the dragon I figured I'd spend $6 on a photo:
Click to expand...

Great pic!

So you run the thermo switch on the high-speed setting and the manual on the low?

Sweet ride.
 
stick70 said:
I have some engine vibration at 3000rpm in every gear (from the JVAB flywheel I think), and after I fix that there will be minimal vibration. they are much better than poly mounts.
Click to expand...

That's not from your flywheel. My car picked up a wicked buzz around 3k when I went to the Yoshi/land rover/whatever they are mounts - which it did not have with poly. I think it's just a resonant frequency between the engine and these mounts.
 
It had it before the mounts too though. I was running diesel mounts and a ratchet strap. Its only in decel. You would think it could be a trans issue, but its in every gear at the same engine speed.
 
LC4CARL said:
Great pic!

So you run the thermo switch on the high-speed setting and the manual on the low?

Sweet ride.
Click to expand...

Yes. I'm planning on running the high speed through megasquirt or vice versa when I upgrade. Mines on the radiator switch now which isn't ideal, it comes on super late.
 
Oh man, I wish I was as tough as you. I have 150 miles on a set of Yoshifab mounts and they make the whole car vibrate and resonate like crazy. Hope it will settle down once the engine and mounts break in a bit more.

Still the best bolt-on solution by far though
 
Harlard said:
Oh man, I wish I was as tough as you. I have 150 miles on a set of Yoshifab mounts and they make the whole car vibrate and resonate like crazy. Hope it will settle down once the engine and mounts break in a bit more.

Still the best bolt-on solution by far though
Click to expand...

I honestly don't mind them. The weird 3000rpm vibration is the worst, and my rear end is essentially solid mounted anyways. I drove probably 15 hours total in it this weekend without complaint.

I do want to get a set of the Kaplhenke torque rods with the rubber bushings, and I'm planning on putting a different 5th gear in the trans anyways. Right now it runs really low engine speed on the interstate and has a huge drop between 4 and 5.
 
I have that vibration too. As for torque rods, those would quiet things down a lot. I'm waiting for him to do adjustable comfort trailing arms also. Once those things are done it should be a way cushier ride.
 
adomz said:
That looks cool!

Kudos for using Stack gauges! They, in my opinion, are really good quality and well priced for what you get. I am planning to redo the gauge cluster in my 242 whenever i am done with the rest and use the original cluster, just rearrange the stuff so i can have a tach where the speedo used to be and have the speedo where the tach was etc and so on ;)

Good stuff! :)

Adam
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I'm really happy with the instruments that are in the car. Your direction sounds like it will be cool also.
 
I finished up the breather valve cover finally, I've had this thing kicking around for years. I had to section the rear off of a B230 cover with the bandsaw for the rear to fit over the cam seal properly. After that I cut the flange off the front that the B21 uses with the timing cover, that was pretty easy with a die grinder and mini belt sander. Finally Stephen (manbeard) filled it up all nice and attached a -10AN bung to the outlet so it would work with my yoshifab catch can.

You can see on the front here where I had to sand it down. I basically just mimicked the shape of the B230 cover, there's plenty of material there.

20170412_213251_zpstkkd9qe9.jpg


Small gap to fill to join the two covers.

20170327_183538_zpspe3cmbie.jpg


I was able to cut it just behind the lettering, so that stayed as it was.

20170327_183639_zpsdgcyq0je.jpg


Here it is filled and on the car.

20170513_100429_zps7bkpeuoh.jpg


And installed.

20170513_090159_zpsthgp3jqf.jpg


20170513_100300_zpskqxhu2xm.jpg


One thing I didn't think about was the stud length difference between the B21 and B230 heads. The B21 studs are probably 10-15mm longer than those on the B230. Luckily I have an old 405 head taking up space here and I was able to swap those out.

Overall I'm really pleased. I provided Stephen a spare head to use as a fixture when he was welding and the cover stayed pretty damn straight. It doesn't seem to be leaking at all around the gasket surface, but I do have one tiny pin hole in the back I need to fill in. All in all not a big deal.
 
I'm jealous! I've Been thinking about adding that b2x style pipe to b2x0 valvecover, but after this i need to consider what i'm going to do. Sweet car, i love it!
 
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