• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

1994 940 Turbo - Engine Light On +

Old Iron

Old Iron

I Roll
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Location
Dela-Where?
I put a battery form my 240 into my 940 bc the 240 hadn?t been driven in a while and I wanted the battery to go through a full 40 mile cycle rather then just sit on a trickle charger. A few days later my left turn signal intermittently stopped working properly and the car through a solid engine light.

Car is an extremely well cared for 1994 940 Turbo. Previous owner was extremely meticulous. I ran the diagnostic. For 1-1-1 in port two and moved to port six and got 2-4-1 (Ignition - EGR vacuum booster/flow wrong?
TPS through 3-3-4 for no faults
RMPM showed 1?4-1 for no faults as well.

Then did the self sequence and all components seemed to cycle on through including the EGR controller bolted to the drivers side front strut tower.

Stumped at what this is, possible hose with hole?

Couldn?t get code to clear by clearing with modelile, but cleared by disconnecting battery.

Any help would be appreciated, may have written too much info, but....
 
2-4-1 is EGR flow too low. You are interpreting the codes wrong. The possible cause is vacuum solenoid. That is what the problem turns out to be about 95% of the time. Either a vacuum line to/from the vacuum solenoid is leaking or the solenoid itself is starting to fail. It can also be that the tube to the intake manifold from the EGR valve is almost closed off from carbon build up. That is what it turned out to be on the last 2 cars I repaired that were generating that code.
 
Ok. This car has had just about everything done to it. I?ll check that solenoid out. Can it be bench tested, or does the module have a test for it to check for function. May be time to pull the piping and check for carbon build up etc.
 
Is the 240 battery still in it? What is its voltage? Do the issues come back when you put the original battery back in? That is where I would start. How are the wires at the battery connection? Sensors don't like low voltage or poor grounds.
 
NotSoFresh said:
Is the 240 battery still in it? What is its voltage? Do the issues come back when you put the original battery back in? That is where I would start. How are the wires at the battery connection? Sensors don't like low voltage or poor grounds.
Click to expand...

Everything is in excellent condition, so I will have to go over it all with a fine tooth comb.
 
I would check the resistance on the EGR temp sensor. Mine was open circuit and so were the next two at the yard. The one in the pipe, not the later model with one in the body of the valve (more robust?). Mine was throwing a temp sensor code tho.

You can monitor the voltage on the sensor, open the EGR valve manually by jumping the solenoid and the engine should stumble (may stall) but if it stays running then the sensor value will change as the EGR flows. That's what the computer is looking at to monitor flow.

You can also just apply vacuum to the EGR valve and see if the engine stumbles/stalls. If so, the EGR valve is operating at least somewhat. Clear the passages at the manifold too!

If you engine does NOT stumble or stall when the EGR valve is activated, the valve is bad, or the ports are clogged shut!
 
Last edited:
Another option is to contact sbabbs and give him your ecu and ezk numbers and put a chip in each computer. Then remove all the egr stuff and enjoy. The engine runs much better with a tune on it and no more egr codes but you'll still have all the other LH2.4 codes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top