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b234 head swap questions - its in the details

Jack

junkman
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Location
The Ass Cheek Of History
b230 with a b234 head

what am I missing from the head in this pictures
crDqZ9Th.jpg



thats the biggest fitting I could find but the idle hose is still way larger
what's been done ?
52kcDS8l.jpg



I want to install the oil/water cooler
does the heat exchanger sit so close to the exhaust manifold ?

I also think I have the wrong - main water line(red) to exhnager hose - this one kinks. Anyone know the part # for that
vj0IZ5qh.jpg


bracket is a good 1/2 inch away - is there a spacer that goes there ?
I think I figured this one out - the engine mount goes there

AvtWAzdh.jpg
 
the temp sender for the gauge is what's missing from the head. I didn't use the support bracket on mine, but it gets a spacer iirc.
 
thanks, is the stock b234 temp sender the same as in B230 heads ?

I figured out the spacer - the engine mount goes there :rofl:

yeah that'd do it. the thread is the same, so use whatever goes with the instrument cluster.
 
In the 8v the first towards the front of the motor is the temp gauge on the dash sensor the second one behind it where your hole is the one that goes to the ECU. It shouldn't matter but that is how volvo did it. Two temp sensors, one for dash gauge and one for ECU. For the dash one, some are one lug others are two lugs to plug wires into. ECU one is two connector lugs. Just depends on what year and type of volvo 240 junker your trying to make better with 7 series parts..
 
In the 8v the first towards the front of the motor is the temp gauge on the dash sensor the second one behind it where your hole is the one that goes to the ECU. It shouldn't matter but that is how volvo did it. Two temp sensors, one for dash gauge and one for ECU. For the dash one, some are one lug others are two lugs to plug wires into. ECU one is two connector lugs. Just depends on what year and type of volvo 240 junker your trying to make better with 7 series parts..

must hold back :cries:


thanks

so that just leaves with me with Yoshifab intake and what do to about idle air hose
 
The hoses for the idle speed controller? We'll one is before the throttle body and the other side is in the intake manifold after the throttle body. Cut the one on stock intake manifold off or pull it out and then JB weld it onto that one brass fitting you got that isn't big enough for the stock hose. No sense in trying to figure out what to do. I can tell you.
 
bracket is a good 1/2 inch away - is there a spacer that goes there ?
I think I figured this one out - the engine mount goes there

A 740/940 engine mount would go there yes, but 240 engine mounts do not use that bolt hole in the block. So for a 240 you need to put a spacer in there. On my car it was 23mm long, but basically the same length/thickness as the original 940 engine mount.
 
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The hoses for the idle speed controller? We'll one is before the throttle body and the other side is in the intake manifold after the throttle body. Cut the one on stock intake manifold off or pull it out and then JB weld it onto that one brass fitting you got that isn't big enough for the stock hose. No sense in trying to figure out what to do. I can tell you.
Good idea thanks

The next you will roll into is the breather box ;)
Yup. Already have yoshi plate on there
A 740/940 engine mount would go there yes, but 240 engine mounts do not use that bolt hole in the block. So for a 240 you need to put a spacer in there. On my car it was 23mm long, but basically the same length/thickness as the original 940 engine mount.
Thank you

Yep... You're going to need the small low profile breather box or Yoshifab's breather box delete adaptor and a separate catch can.

I have to pick up the cap and box from him but already have the plate
 
URO sucks, OE Volvo rubber rules. Get the ones linked to off Tasca, they are a good deal and were posted by someone smart. Listen to him.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
I would go oe but having used silicone on many applications for over 15 years and 300k miles with only one failure due to clamp cutting into the hose at about 200k

I hate hate hate to replace stuff more than once. This will have a 3” exhaust right next to it too

Oe is only few $ less
 
It also won't leak or be a pain to install(not that the silicone really should be in this specific application). The 3" exhaust and more heat from the modified car may make the silicone a better choice, but the OE stuff is almost always the best. If you're ever comparing OE to URO, definitely, do NOT get URO. :lol:
 
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