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92 240 JY Engine

xDread92x

xDread92x

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Location
NC
Sourcing a b230f that was found in JY. Odometer says ?158k?. Anyway, turns smooth at crank and can hear flowing of fluids. Have most everything apart to get ready to pull. Afew last minute things caught my eye.

1. The tranny bellhousing bolt directly behind oil separator looks like the head is broken off and bolt is still in the threads. I was going to pull just engine but now i may have to pull tranny too so i can access for extract. Not sure how PO managed that. Will removing be difficult?

2. Another issue is that cooling system is all brown. I have never seen this on any 240 and mainly american cars. My guess is someone may have used water instead of coolant? Ill add pics. Could this pose a serious problem?

Thanks (btw:the block is all I'm trying to source)

https://ibb.co/6bvTJC0
https://ibb.co/QNF9vsJ
 
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There's 2 bolts going through the starter, and a recessed alignment pin just above the top starter bolt. Are you seeing the alignment pin, and not a broken bolt?

You can sort of see it on the far right of this picture (ignore the green circle):
B21-FT-LH24-Knock-Sensor-M8-22mm-deep.jpg
 
It stays in place to hold exact alignment between engine and tranny. The mating hole in the tranny is a wee bit bigger than the pin. The tranny slides off of it once the bolts are removed, maybe with a little bit of wiggling.
 
Ok thanks!

Any insight on reddish looking camshaft and rusty cooling system? Is this block still usable?

Thanks
 
The red tint on the cam bearing journals is normal. That's how any redblock that had the oil changed looks inside. The red tint on the thermostat housing looks like the engine has been running straight water for a long time.
 
So can that be reversible or is getting this block not a good decision?

I know what water can do to an engine. And in this case obviously distilled wasnt used.
 
Is what reversible? If you mean the red tint inside the crankcase/cylinder head, don't even worry about it. That is merely a stain/super thin layer of build up of oil additives.
 
The rust in the cooling system. Does it pose any serious risk? The block ports probably look similar but i wont know until i get the head off. Im just trying to source the block

Thanks
 
They didn't do anyone any favors running straight water that long. Are you after the complete lower end, or just the block? There is no reversing the rust. You can completely disassemble the engine and have the block cleaned.
 
Well the oil pan is banged up so that will be getting replaced. I can get it on a stand and get a look at the ports. The complete block is what i am trying to source.

Worse case scenario I just put this block in and do afew coolant flushes. Will I be okay?
 
Your guess is better than mine. Without seeing how scaled up the inside of the block it, no way for me to speculate how well it will work. Pull the thermostat housing off of it and look at the mating surfaces of the head and T-stat housing. That should give you an idea of how bad the galvanic corrosion is. Anti-freeze isn't used to merely stop the block from rusting.
 
Oh yea i know coolant doesn't prevent rust. Was just wondering if I ran it as is how bad could it be. But i guess cars run for years with rusty cooling system.
 
You could pull the water pump and T-stat off/out of the engine and then flush it out with a household water hose using a rag wrapped around the hose end to somewhat seal it to the opening. If anything is going to flush it out, a 90 psi garden hose will. Go both directions. Through the T-stat housing and through the hole where the water pump feeds the block. Leave the head on for this, obviously.
 
I'd walk away from it.

Could be over time the water passages have narrowed, thus compromising cooling.

Why chance it, when other engines with less obvious issues are out there?

Last thing you want is to buy it, discover issues and kick yourself for buying it.

Of course if you can tear it down to bare block it can all be made right but I suspect you are hoping just to swap, without a tear down / rebuild.
 
Well at this rate it?s pretty much ready to pull. I could just take the block to a machine shop for much less and have it fixed up right. The coolant ports i mean. If they look that bad. Crate engine is $2000. Blocks alone are hard to come by.

An engine shipped from the forums could be $5-600 or more. And these cars are getting fewer at the near JY?s. Its been acouple years since this one finally came through.

I think best thing to do is go ahead and pull block and have it fixed up and then drop it in.
 
My bigger concern about pulling a JY engine is why did the car end up at the JY in the first place? It it's been T boned or rear-ended, go for it. Otherwise, you have to wonder if an engine related issue caused the surrender to the JY, or possibly a busted trans, etc.
 
Well the JY wrote on the windshield transmission wont stay in gear. But I dont need the transmission anyway.

The intake was duct tapped, and i noticed the crankshaft position sensor was completely deteriorated. It's possible just a few issues caused bad running and mimicked "not staying in gear". I had a CPS fail while driving and it definitely seemed similar with power loss etc.
 
Why not just grab a late 1993-95 B230F from a regina 940? A lot of those have the 240 style intermediate shaft installed in them, plus they're squirter blocks, instead of the older slap-happy non-squirter B230 blocks. Volvo pretty much took the leftover 240 engines, converted them to Regina, and dropped them into the 940s.
 
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