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Old 06-01-2018, 08:10 PM   #101
PromiseRing
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
That's what I just answered. You can get them from Volvo. They are ~ $5 each. The seals that come in those generic o-ring kits are not the right size for those two connections..
So when I replaced the drier, I think I saw a larger black seal but it seemed to sit at the tapered part of the hardline, rather than slip over the threads. I obviously should’ve paid closer attention. The seal was not an o ring shape, but rather a tapered seal similar to the top waterpump seal. Have you ever encountered this?

Really kicking myself in the ass for not paying closer attention. Live and learn.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:03 PM   #102
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There is nothing like you describe in the AC system.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:08 PM   #103
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So in order to maintain a proper seal at the larger connections on the drier, do I need to get the parts from Volvo? Is it okay to assume that all of the smaller orings are acceptable?

Just called the dealer, they have those larger seals for $9 a piece (wow). I can grab a generic pack of orings for the rest of the system if those will be sufficient.

Last edited by PromiseRing; 06-13-2018 at 12:22 PM..
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:26 PM   #104
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Quick emergency question. Is this threaded portion supposed to move indepently of the piece it’s surrounding? I would think so. As is, I cannot turn the whole unit far enough to the correct position to create a seal, it just stops. Perhaps rust has fused it together?

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Old 06-13-2018, 08:30 PM   #105
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Yes, it should turn freely. Use some PB Blaster to free it up.
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:33 PM   #106
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Yes, it should turn freely. Use some PB Blaster to free it up.
Thanks Roy!

I will upload pics of the black tapered ‘seal’ i spoke of prior. Clearly it was incorrect.

I’m also replacing the orifice tube which appears to be clogged or at least partially clogged.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:05 PM   #107
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If your gf can free it without using hands she’s a keeper and you should marry her tomorrow

Also inb4 my ac stopped working after a day
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:09 PM   #108
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If your gf can free it without using hands she’s a keeper and you should marry her tomorrow

Also inb4 my ac stopped working after a day
Dude I’m hoping it just makes it through summer
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Old 07-13-2018, 03:38 PM   #109
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1 month update. AC is still good, gets quite cold on the highway.

I have a concern. At idle, the ac sucks. The mechanical puller works well and the electric pusher comes on any time it idles with the AC on, so I believe there is sufficient airflow over the core.

What could cause poor performance at idle? The orifice tube is new and clean, and the system is charged with the 'correct' amount of ES12A. It takes a few minutes to get cold but once on the highway vent temps vary from 38F-45F. At idle,I've seen them as warm as 65F-70F, far too warm.

I've noticed that at a stop if I rev the engine to about 2250rpm, temps will drop to 60F or so.

So, she is satisfied with the AC, I am not. What can we do, parallel flow condenser, adjustable expansion valve rather than orifice tube, or perhaps more refrigerant?
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Old 07-13-2018, 07:48 PM   #110
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Weak compressor can do that. What's the low side pressure at idle, and then during a rev?
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:34 PM   #111
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Hey

I have a 960 and it cycled fast with no cold from the ECC, one 32oz can of A/C pro fixed all these problems. I have a 1993 940 with the ECC out, once that is repaired the A/C pro will probably fix it too, if it even needs Freon.
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Old 07-27-2018, 02:22 PM   #112
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Hey

I have a 960 and it cycled fast with no cold from the ECC, one 32oz can of A/C pro fixed all these problems. I have a 1993 940 with the ECC out, once that is repaired the A/C pro will probably fix it too, if it even needs Freon.
R134a is not Freon. I opted against using r134a refrigerant, though I’m sure it would work okay. It is less efficient than r12 or another refrigerant.
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:10 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
1 month update. AC is still good, gets quite cold on the highway.

I have a concern. At idle, the ac sucks. The mechanical puller works well and the electric pusher comes on any time it idles with the AC on, so I believe there is sufficient airflow over the core.

What could cause poor performance at idle? The orifice tube is new and clean, and the system is charged with the 'correct' amount of ES12A. It takes a few minutes to get cold but once on the highway vent temps vary from 38F-45F. At idle,I've seen them as warm as 65F-70F, far too warm.

I've noticed that at a stop if I rev the engine to about 2250rpm, temps will drop to 60F or so.

So, she is satisfied with the AC, I am not. What can we do, parallel flow condenser, adjustable expansion valve rather than orifice tube, or perhaps more refrigerant?
Add a little more you can alway take it out. The pressure charts are just a ballpark. Ive done some car that needed more and some that worked best on the lowend.
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