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Old 09-18-2009, 09:48 PM   #1
yama
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Default 240 3" stainless over the axle exhaust

Almost done building a full 3 inch stainless exhaust for my 240. It ended up being over the axle because my resonator ended up pointing that way. I like the look better as it is more stealthy and looks cleaner but making all the extra bends was a bear. I used a 8" flex pipe, Vibrant metallic core cat, Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and MRBP 3" in dual 2.5" out muffler along with 2 vband clamps. Need to pull down the 3 sections and finish welding all the seams and trim the dual outputs. Still a couple a of days before I get to hear it. I will take a few pictures of the sections when there off the car.
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File Type: jpg tb3inch3.jpg (195.6 KB, 846 views)
File Type: jpg tb3inch2.jpg (180.9 KB, 843 views)
File Type: jpg tb3inch1.jpg (185.4 KB, 841 views)
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:19 PM   #2
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very nice!
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:32 PM   #3
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Ja!
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:33 PM   #4
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That looks really good its not my car and i want to hear it. The whole underside of that thing is clean.
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:03 AM   #5
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I like the dual exit pipes from muffler. Cool.
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:31 PM   #6
yama
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Pulled off the downpipe today and finished seaming all the joints. Also reinforced the front mount which is made from an NA bellhousing bracket with some 3/8 stainless rod. The bracket has some high temperature barbque paint on it. Tomorrow I hope to finish welding up the resonator and over the axle pipe. That's my old downpipe in the back. yuk!!
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:44 PM   #7
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weres your project thread, I wana see more!
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:47 PM   #8
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:18 PM   #9
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Looks awesome. this is pretty sweet and nice work with the pipe before the cat to tuck it up in the space. I need to hear this
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:33 PM   #10
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Looks pretty good so far.
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:10 PM   #11
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I love the bend up before the cat, I'm sure that helps with ground clearance! I'd love to see a side shot of the clearance when it's all done. Great work dude.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:33 PM   #12
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Today I finished welding the seams on the resonator section. The resonator mount is cut from a stock NA resonator. Not shown in the picture but I also cut the not needed corner off the mount and painted it with high temperature barbque paint as its not stainless. My original plan was to make the resonator section and axle section one piece. It wasn't possible to drop the pipe in one piece(bummer) so I had to add an additional vband on the resonator output. Finished welding all the seams on the over the axle pipe but still need to refit the pipe and cut the last V section again due to the added vband. Going over the axle uses 2 extra bends so I had to make 2 of them out of V sections. This is the first time I welded stainless and I was surprised to see that my tank of tri-mix is almost empty with running almost 2lbs of 308L wire. I don't normally like to take a hammer to the sheet metal but adding an additional 1" of clearance for the exhaust was to tempting. I did nice to it after by giving it a fresh shot of undercoating.
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:03 PM   #13
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Some pictures of this mornings progress. Labor of love grinding out ridges. Trimming tips with a 14" dry cut saw. Not related but a bottom shot of turbo feed/drain with remote oil filter adapter. Bottom shot of downpipe installed.
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File Type: jpg 3inchtiptrim.jpg (185.2 KB, 640 views)
File Type: jpg turbodrain.jpg (178.9 KB, 637 views)

Last edited by yama; 09-23-2009 at 02:53 PM..
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:53 PM   #14
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looks great! a bit to clean under there tho. no active rust prevention either.
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:02 PM   #15
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You started out ok on the downpipe, but the rest...


You shouldn't just cut the pipe on a miter like that. Cut perpendicular to the bends.

I'd be tempted to re-do the overaxle section personally, that ain't gonna flow well...
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:58 PM   #16
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its 3" how can it not flow well? im guessing there is like no back pressure in this system
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:03 PM   #17
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I think Bondo was refering to the sharp transitions
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #18
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I bet that because the inside of it is so smooth since its polished, that there is very little friction on the inside surface of the pipe. There are no 90 degree bends, the sharpest bend I see looks like 45 excluding the DP
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Old 09-21-2009, 07:10 PM   #19
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no radius, only angles, bondito hasa good point indeed!
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:10 PM   #20
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im guessing
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:44 PM   #21
yama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
You started out ok on the downpipe, but the rest...


You shouldn't just cut the pipe on a miter like that. Cut perpendicular to the bends.

I'd be tempted to re-do the overaxle section personally, that ain't gonna flow well...

Dude! In an ideal world you are right. Mandrel bends are the best and wish that I had more on hand. I started off intending to do an under the axle and had 6 3" 90's. That S bend before the cat that tucks the exhaust up 3" cost me a 90 and over the axle an additional 2 leaving me 3 short. Its not like I could run to AZ and pick up some 16 gauge 304 SS 90 bends so I improvised with what I had. The 90 I made with 3 V sections has an effective diameter 27/8". (I just mic'd it) So in all I have approximately 8" of pipe with a reduced of diameter of 27/8". I would have a hard time believing that is going to effect flow very much. I'm replacing a 2" crushed bent exhaust with this. Maybe some day I'll clean it up a bit with mandrel bends but for know I'm perfectly satisfied. Yes under axle will flow best but I can say that I like the way over the axle tucks up neat and I'm glad I did it that way. Its my resonator that pointed me up. The over the axle pipe isn't completed and I have already removed the sharp vsection on the end. I'm not a professional exhaust fabricator and this is my first one.

Last edited by yama; 09-23-2009 at 12:27 PM..
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:30 PM   #22
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Someone's got the shakes...
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:17 AM   #23
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wtf are those mild steel welds? and your peranmeters are way way off.
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:11 AM   #24
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wtf are those mild steel welds? and your peranmeters are way way off.
stainless. I know there not pretty. Stainless doesn't transfer heat very well and you need to use a fast wire speed and lay the beads down fairly fast. You stay on one spot very long and you have a huge bead. This was my first stainless job and I got better towards the end. If I sit down and support one hand take my time and do short pulses I can make the welds look better. I may just get a TIG. I don't know what peranmeters mean or WTF your talking about.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:27 AM   #25
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He's talking about your wire feed and amp settings. I would question the logic - yes stainless transfers heat less effectively than mild steel, but this actually means that burn through is less likely. I would slow down the wire feed and heat and see what happens.

Cool project by the way.
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