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Old 09-03-2010, 02:02 AM   #26
slow240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YLD244 View Post
cool pics of the crumple zone.
the 740 was the safest car on the road when it was released.
probably still is!
and without airbags or abs
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build thread; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=251729
'92 244. 601 red, stock, awesome.
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'92 245. 601 red, stock, awesome.
'90 244. blue, tall, ghetto, fabulous.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:28 PM   #27
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Been a dog's age, but it is still progressing (slowly).

Got side tracked building a sandblasting cabinet after I was scolded about using the one at work.
Anyway the front struts are done except for the Kalphlenke kit that should arrive any day.
The steering rack is nice and tight.
The rearend is filled with IPD goodness.
Ever wonder what the difference is between the manual ball joints and power rack ball joints? Caster. Should make low speed steering liveable, but a bit nervous on the highway. We'll see.
Lastly is my latest accumulation for my next project.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg strut_small.jpg (77.3 KB, 599 views)
File Type: jpg rack_small.jpg (80.5 KB, 598 views)
File Type: jpg rearend low res.jpg (71.8 KB, 598 views)
File Type: jpg balljoint_small.jpg (80.2 KB, 599 views)
File Type: jpg 16Vpile_small.jpg (86.1 KB, 600 views)
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:40 PM   #28
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Are you using a manual rack or power steering rack?
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:41 AM   #29
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thats a manual rack
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:02 AM   #30
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thats a manual rack
Duh. Didn't even see the picture.

Anyway, I wouldn't use the ps steering ball joints. I thought the same thing, but the manual ball joints work much better.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:01 AM   #31
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That head has too many valves.... Where's it going?
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Anyway, I wouldn't use the ps steering ball joints. I thought the same thing, but the manual ball joints work much better.
I think that they will most likely be just fine. As most of my commute is in excess of 65MPH, I only worry about the steering being a bit 'nervous' with several degrees less caster. I'm going to try the Kalphenke units on the center hole. If it is too crazy, I'll switch to the 'stock' hole on the outer end. That is, once it arrives......

Quote:
That head has too many valves.... Where's it going?
There are acutaly two complete 16V heads there.... In the 83 242 GLT that I have out back. I'm in the parts accumulation phase of that project. I'm regularly scouring the yards for a 91+ block and a GT mustang with its T-5 still in it.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:01 AM   #33
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Thread revival......

I've been DD this car for a couple of years now. Still don't have the B23FT done. My DD 83 244 got totaled (rear ended) and I swapped its guts over to this car.

As the car sits now:

B23 high compression (~11:1) with an H cam.
Nuke cam gear +5 degrees.
iPD springs front and rear.
Bilstien HD front and rear.
upper and lower chassis brace.
strut brace.
UEGO wideband.
5 bar oil pressure
oil temperature gauge
single round flathood.
elephant ears.
Tethys with 235/45/17
extended wheel studs
25MM spacers.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:44 AM   #34
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You should take some pictures. And fix the old broken links for old pictures
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:27 PM   #35
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Currentish picture. Was running a set of iPD RWD Pegs at the time.

I later swapped to the Tethys.

One note, I run drive cameras front and rear after a near swoop-and-squat episode on the highway. I've caught several accidents as a result of running these. They are cheap these days, I recommend them.

I ended up dumping the crappy suction cup mount and using a GoPro sticky mount and made a transition piece out of HDPE that I got from Tap Plastics.

Did some stuff yesterday.
1. Mounted a replacement rear valence and swapped the mangled recovery loop out. Amazing how much better it makes the rear end look.
2. Tightened (another) loose bolt on the rear suspension. This one was the RF bolt on the trailing arm.
3. Repacked the front wheel bearings. Maintenance, maintenance.
4. Determined that the creaking was the heim joints on the BNE comfort upper control arms and the BNE TAB bushing. Nothing wrong with them, they just creak like all heim joints do after a few miles.

I have an 84 245 on the trailer for parts these days. I'm continually surprised at just how many parts I strip off of it on a regular basis to keep the fleet on the road.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:08 PM   #36
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I'd like to reiterate how much the west coast sucks ballz. A 50 dollar 242? Really???


It's turning into a nice ride man. Keep it up...
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Old 04-04-2017, 07:52 PM   #37
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I know right? my favorite colour of 240 too, same as my old 242 I think. I want another 242 so bad.
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:31 PM   #38
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:33 PM   #39
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Say it ain't so.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:24 PM   #40
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Fockshirtballs
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Old 04-16-2017, 11:24 PM   #41
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Sorry about the hit man -- sucks I know.

My 242 got hit back in Feb. 2002 in Knoxville, TN with almost identical damage to yours. Hit started closer to the wheel so it pushed the fender into the tire and then bounced off before it took out the tail light. However, it ripped my commando bumper off the strut (just like your pic) and jackknifed the passenger side of the bumper into that rear fender also torquing/tearing the unibody pieces underneath that held the passenger side strut. 2 ruined rear qtrs without touching the tail lights, deck lid or rear valance.

How did your accident occur? The truck that hit me was coming towards me in the other lane when he got rear ended and lost control side swiping me as he moved by. His damage was to his driver's side front.



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Old 04-17-2017, 11:08 PM   #42
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That was way worse than mine.

In this case, the ding dong was parked next to me. He backed out and caught the car with his bumper. Damage was limited to the quarter panel and bumper. Happened while I was in the store. To the guy's credit, he stuck around and is insured. I'm quite sure that the damage to the 2017 Nissan will far exceed the value of my car.

Insurance company will likely total the car.

In the meantime, I mashed the panel back out and threw a replacement set of bumper shocks and (sh*tty) bumper on it. I'll wrangle with insurance on the value, buy the car back for scrap value, get it inspected by the state patrol and get a new title.
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:25 AM   #43
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I figured he dragged the front end past you when backing out. No doubt, my hit was harder. "Identical damage" wasn't quite right - it's just seeing your rear qtr damage and the bumper that way brought back memories. Had I let my insurance company handle the fix I believe they would have totaled mine too. But I had a choice - and I let the other guy's insurance handle it. And they (Farmers) paid for the fix no questions asked. 2 replacement qtr panels and I paid the additional amount to have the whole thing painted while it was there. And still a clean title. Lucky I guess.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:45 AM   #44
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They don't have to total it. These cars are too old to be booked. Therefor there value is based upon comps. If it was a new Prius they would fix it. That's backwards as it would be less effort to sign on the dotted line and buy a new one. Push push and push the insurance company will do there job.
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Old 04-27-2017, 03:58 PM   #45
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USB port that fits in the switch plates.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-04-2017, 02:17 PM   #46
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You never have to buy back something you own. They will just wrangle a number with you and give you much less than you should get and move on. Have all the receipts and proof that your car is nice and you get a bit more out of them.

Wish you well with the car. It's a nice one. Thanks for the mention of the drive cameras. I want to add them to my cars.
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:30 PM   #47
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Well, I came to an agreement with the insurance company. Frankly, I came out ok. I got what amounts to every penny I have in the car and retained ownership. USAA really didn't argue, just required documentation (receipts) and a description.

I've already knocked out the panel (for the most part so far), replaced the bumper and shocks, and put new (Estonian) taillights from Ebay on the car.

Other than the PITA about dealing with this, I'm reasonably satisfied with how it was resolved.

I still have a little bit of work to do to get the quarter straight and that's about it.

Once the state sends me a notice, I'll have the car inspected by the state patrol and that's it. Wa state doesn't even re-issue the title as branded. Its too old for them to care.


To answer the earlier question about how this occurred, the guy was backing out of the parking spot next to me fast and cut the wheel too soon. If he had been ben more interested in driving than fiddling with his stereo, he wouldn't have hit me. I was in the store at the time and didn't see the accident. To his credit, he didn't take off or anything, called his insurance company immediately and told him that he was at fault - and was well insured. Sometimes you really can't judge a book by its cover. In his case, the cover said 'pot smoking moron', but he did everything that he was supposed to. I even wrote out an admission of guilt and he signed it readily. In the end, I was taken care of and he'll be without his car for several weeks. I'd say he got the worse end of the deal.

Still would have preferred for it not to happen.

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Old 09-11-2017, 07:46 PM   #48
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Little bit been happening here and there.

Broke a valve spring on the way home a couple weeks ago. Thought the motor had let go (sounded like a rod knock), so just finished driving it home. Was pretty funny when my family came running out of the house at the noise.

All the racket was the shim bouncing around inside the valve cover.

Interestingly, it didn't damage the head at all. The edges of the #3E cam lobe were a bit chipped, but nothing catastrophic. R/R head, new Volvo stiffer valve springs, lapped the valves and cleaned up the short turn in the ports. Fished a replacement bucket from my horde. Installed head studs as well. I find it interesting that the head stud we use on the B21/23/230 is a Cummins Turbo Diesel stud.

Car runs fine. Hardest part of the deal was compressing the broken spring enough to get the keepers out of it. Was *just* barely enough to get them out. Used an Elring HG.

I had been having issues with a little bit of pre-ignition knock. I played around with the Nuke gear both advancing (turning cam clockwise as viewed from the front) and retarding (counterclockwise) the cam. Car progressively ran like sh*t when advancing the cam. Better retarding. I'm currently running ~5deg retarded. The only thing that I can think of is that since I have a high compression motor already, I can't use any more compression as I don't have enough octane to prevent knock. Car is smoother and power more linear. I'll likely move it a couple more degrees either way to see how it drives.

The crosshatch on the bores has finally disappeared, but there is no appreciable ridge.

So as the car stands now:
83 B23 high compression (flat top piston) motor.
slightly shaved head, ports cleaned up.
High(er) tension springs.
H cam.
Nuke gear.
ARP studs.
Converted to round tooth.
Still rocking LH2.

IPD 28/25mm bars.
IPD springs.
Bilstein HD absorbers.

M46 with Avalanche short throw shifter.

Other items to play with:
1. I have a couple NIW modified B21F intakes. I'd like to fit one up at some point. Just finding time to do so is difficult.
2. I have an Eaton LSD. I'd like to find either a 3.73 or a 3.91 gear set to fit up to it. I hope to find one in one of the yards that they don't want an arm and a leg for. Buying the entire axle, rebuilding it and then just swapping the axle appeals to me a lot.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:00 PM   #49
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Love this car. Have you left the SAI correctors in the middle spot? How do you like it?

USAA has been good to me over the years as well.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:14 PM   #50
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Sadly, I haven't installed them yet. I went to do so and couldn't get one of the bolts out of the tube. I could break it off, but not thrilled about the prospect.

The manual steering has worn out its welcome after years living with it. I have managed to acquire a ZF power rack. I'll rebuild that and replace the strut tube when I swap the rack. That way, I only have to align it once. I'll also install the camber plates I have at the same time.

FYI, one of David Samuel's strut brackets does in fact fit under a flathood on an LH motor'd car.
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