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Old 11-20-2010, 12:21 AM   #126
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sucksssssssss who did you buy it from? a member here?
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:12 AM   #127
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In other news:






Last edited by Alex Buchka; 11-20-2010 at 06:15 AM..
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:55 AM   #128
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I want a 'like' button for that ^^ post.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:02 AM   #129
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sucksssssssss who did you buy it from? a member here?
Nah. Guy on CL in cali.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:02 AM   #130
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hows the back edge fixtured? also, post pictures of that tool. the one on the machine, not in front of it.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:06 AM   #131
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Quote:
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hows the back edge fixtured? also, post pictures of that tool. the one on the machine, not in front of it.
Through the oil drain hole.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:38 AM   #132
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top quality Buchka work. excellent finish on the top of the pan.
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:33 AM   #133
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Giggle.
Another solution would be a dry sump, but that's so far off the scale of logic for this project right now.
(Yes I did attempt to make this project sound logical)
The main reason I'm shying away from a dry-sump setup is that the gains in motor mounding position are nearly 0. Once your motor is installed, you'll see that the section of the pan that's above the cross member is actually very shallow. If you're planning a dedicated road racer that has other reasons for needing the dry-sump, cool, but other than cool-factor, there's very little to be gained as far as moving the block lower in the chassis.
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:36 AM   #134
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hows the back edge fixtured? also, post pictures of that tool. the one on the machine, not in front of it.
Both ends are attached to cast iron angle plates. The whole fixture was pretty ghetto. My initial plan was to build a fixture rig for facing oil pans but when I realized what a pain in the ass the whole job is I decided I'd do a one time thing work holding setup. The back of the oil pan is bolted down through one of the bellhousing mounts. The front of the pan is attached by the oil cooler connection port.

Because this stuff never works how you want I had to rethink the tooling a bit. My first idea was to jog the table around the pan rail and face it with an 80mm facemill. This turned out to have some clearance problems so I decided to use the pictured boring bar which could face the width of the pan in one pass. I ground a HSS tool with a shallow entering angle to try to reduce chatter a bit.

****ty part was how long it took. The effective tool radius was over 250mm so I didn't want to go faster than 120rpm or so (probably could have gone faster in hindsight). I varied the feed between 30-45mm/min depending on where the cutter was engaged. It took about 15 minutes to do one pass across the pan at 0.2mm depth of cut. In the end I had to face off about 1.2mm to get it all flat.
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Old 11-20-2010, 09:57 PM   #135
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More detail than you guys ever wanted to see, but deal with it
I didn't clean anything, just took it apart and snapped pics.








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Old 11-20-2010, 11:05 PM   #136
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Quote:
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....over 250mm...
**** yes.


Howd you do the initial leveling? Dial indicator in the spindle and tapping the pan around until it was flat enough? That would be tedious



edit:// homer you're the best poster in this thread

Last edited by the poi; 11-20-2010 at 11:47 PM..
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:18 PM   #137
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I made the fairly safe assumption that the back of the oil pan where the bellhousing mounts is supposed to be perpendicular to the mounting surface of the oil pan. When I clamped down the pan I made sure the bellhousing surface was flush with the surface of the angle plate. Then I hit the rearmost section of the pan rail with a dial indicator and jogged the table back and forth in Y and adjusted it until it was level.




This is the tool I used. Pretty simple home made fly cutter.


Here's the tool I ground to face the pan. Never done this before so I kind of rolled the dice just to see if it would work.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:08 PM   #138
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Someone needs to bro me some spacers for my siq ******.
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Old 11-24-2010, 05:36 PM   #139
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Got the housing cleaned up. Waiting till next week to get the comp wheel and rebalance.
Dialed the turbine shaft. It's straight.
6.99$ at harbor freight made quick work of the giant snap ring.



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Old 11-25-2010, 09:31 AM   #140
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I heart giant snap rings
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:54 AM   #141
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8cm exhaust? might be smallish for huge power goals. i liked it on my b230 though
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:09 PM   #142
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8cm exhaust? might be smallish for huge power goals. i liked it on my b230 though
9cm
I'm looking for a responsive engine/turbo package.

Last edited by Homer; 11-26-2010 at 03:40 PM..
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:28 PM   #143
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I'm looking for a responsive package.
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:29 PM   #144
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9cm
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:39 AM   #145
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Emm ninety is in the mail!
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:19 PM   #146
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Slight snafu with m90 shipment.
No worries. Fedex guy at the dropoff place was a retard.
It's ready for the box!


Got a good handle on CFDizzle, but the laptop is at apple getting the headphone jack fixed this week. Not much will happen this week I'm afraid.
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:24 PM   #147
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Carp

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Old 12-07-2010, 05:25 PM   #148
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LOL that looks like one big mothef**king miss-shaped bag of cocaine

How much tape did go on that monster?
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:35 PM   #149
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Dude don't get me started .. packing up m90's sucks balls
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:28 PM   #150
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How'd you get the electric wastegate sensor thing out of the turbo? Are you just going to plug it with a bolt?
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