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Old 04-26-2018, 10:47 AM   #76
Uncleknucklez
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Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
Looks absolutely fantastic! Love that color combo.
Thanks a ton!

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Cool. Yeah the IronX smells really terrible. It's quite pungent, and seems acidic although they claim it's pH-neutral. Apparently it's ammonium thioglycolate which is also used for hair perms and removing rust stains from marble. It sure does a good job of dissolving crap lodged in the paint. There were some rust stains on my roof from an old homemade rack, and this took 'em right off. Makes clay barring go much quicker too.
That sounds exactly like the same stuff, takes rust off of paint like nobodies business. I'll grab a bottle to try out.

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Cheers from another green 242 guy!

Thanks for a good thread!
Thanks for the kind words, us green guys gotta stick together and rise up against all the beige (although I want a beige 4 wagon pretty bad now)
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:47 AM   #77
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Update:

Took a quick trip to my closest PnP this weekend, scored this single round grill setup for $38 out the door. Best part is the H4 bulbs that are now on the car. Bye bye sealed beams!





Also, the 16T turbo is finally in, took some doing, but I also fabricated a 3" DP to match the rest of the exhaust I had previously built. She's a runner now. the 16T is waaaay different than the 13C, and feels more linear even at the same boost levels. It is a touch laggier, but that could be a combination of questionable WGA tension and my cheap MBC.

Stock 940 DP (chopped to fit a 240) vs 3" boomer




Room for activities


Snug as a bug 16T


13C, 15G, 16T


Completed DP


Will probably add a high flow cat in here, this thing stinks now....


A little better tuck job than the first time


Last but not least, I finally have a speedo that does something, it doesn't read MPH, but the needle moves It seems like there is interference of some form, and the speedo moves in relation to throttle position? Like the more the throttle is pressed, the higher the speed reads up to 20MPH, so that's fun

Always something.... Until next time, thanks for checking in!
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Old 05-07-2018, 12:45 PM   #78
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Nice work. Enjoy the 16T.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:12 PM   #79
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Pic's are blocked at work, sounds like some good progress though!

You can always try a helper spring on the WG for short-term, see how that helps for spool before spending money on a new actuator, but those 15g/16t actuators are pretty weak ont eh return side to keep the gate closed.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:26 PM   #80
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Pic's are blocked at work, sounds like some good progress though!

You can always try a helper spring on the WG for short-term, see how that helps for spool before spending money on a new actuator, but those 15g/16t actuators are pretty weak ont eh return side to keep the gate closed.
Eh, I use Imgur for hosting, so I can imagine it would be flagged by some work places. Imagine my car with a bigger turbo and 3" DP

That's actually a really good idea, I will try the spring on the WGA, currently it is the 13c unit, I pulled all the rods and picked the stiffest, super scientific.
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Old 05-08-2018, 11:23 PM   #81
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That's actually a really good idea, I will try the spring on the WGA, currently it is the 13c unit, I pulled all the rods and picked the stiffest, super scientific.
If you have a Mityvac that can both blow and suck, and a dial indicator, you can get a good estimate of the boost pressure at which your actuator starts to open. Put the dial indicator shaft in line with the actuator rod, at the tip, and zero it. Then plumb your Mityvac (or other controllable pressure source w/ gauge) into the port and start pumping it up. When the dial indicator reaches about 0.040" (1.00mm), read the pressure on the gauge, and that's going to be pretty close to the effective setpoint...if you're running straight into the actuator without an MBC or EBC of course.

Edit: bypass the MBC when you do this. Probably worth clarifying.
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Old 05-08-2018, 11:49 PM   #82
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^^^^ = truth. Also if you have an actuator that's close to the range you want, run the pressure up to where you plan to run it, adjust the eyelet to 1/2 turn short of sliding over the arm, should be pretty close. I went that route when setting up the Forge in the wagon, sits at 20psi except for an initial spike if I mat it and downshift with the throttle, then it'll hit 22 and drop down.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:37 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Duder View Post
If you have a Mityvac that can both blow and suck, and a dial indicator, you can get a good estimate of the boost pressure at which your actuator starts to open. Put the dial indicator shaft in line with the actuator rod, at the tip, and zero it. Then plumb your Mityvac (or other controllable pressure source w/ gauge) into the port and start pumping it up. When the dial indicator reaches about 0.040" (1.00mm), read the pressure on the gauge, and that's going to be pretty close to the effective setpoint...if you're running straight into the actuator without an MBC or EBC of course.

Edit: bypass the MBC when you do this. Probably worth clarifying.
I don't have a Mityvac, But I should get one. This is a great easy test for all WGA me thinks.

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^^^^ = truth. Also if you have an actuator that's close to the range you want, run the pressure up to where you plan to run it, adjust the eyelet to 1/2 turn short of sliding over the arm, should be pretty close. I went that route when setting up the Forge in the wagon, sits at 20psi except for an initial spike if I mat it and downshift with the throttle, then it'll hit 22 and drop down.
So after a few days of letting the 'puter re-learn, the WGA and associated rigging is highly suspect. Car spikes to 20 psi in second gear (MBC is set around 15 psi) and then settles to the 15. Car hits 15 lbs in 3rd through 5th gear fine so far.

I would like to turn up the wick a bit to 18-20 psi, but I don't want it overboosting to 25 psi in second gear So a new WGA is on the list, as well as a rethink on mounting, I currently am using the ubiquitous A/C bracket, which works, but there is still more flex than I would like.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:48 AM   #84
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I did a thing yesterday! All told I have like 15 plus hours sanding and polish the lips, I had our painter at my shop spray the centers a nice gold, and new stainless hardware. I am beyond pleased.


(for the record, that is not me, but this les schwab guy was loving the car)



Dolla bill lip shot yo


So now I still have to finish the A/C wiring, and fix the GD speedo! But it is IPD ready me thinks, and I am pumped.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:12 AM   #85
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Yesss. Wheels look so good. This car is low key, yet really nicely modded. My kind of build. Nice work.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:22 AM   #86
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+1 wheels look really good! Not envious of all the sanding tho

at the "Pegamoose" fender stickers, good stuff.

Re: WGA
Have you tried backing off the preload at all? I had to reduce the preload (extend the WGA rod) a bit to reduce spiking.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:31 AM   #87
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What all did you have to do to get that 940 down pipe to fit? I'm looking at my 740 pipe trying to figure out what I need to do to fit my 245, and yours looks a lot simpler than what I had figured out
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:24 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
I did a thing yesterday! All told I have like 15 plus hours sanding and polish the lips, I had our painter at my shop spray the centers a nice gold, and new stainless hardware. I am beyond pleased.


(for the record, that is not me, but this les schwab guy was loving the car)



Dolla bill lip shot yo


So now I still have to finish the A/C wiring, and fix the GD speedo! But it is IPD ready me thinks, and I am pumped.
So are you driving that bling up for IPD? I have detailing supplies.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:30 AM   #89
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Yesss. Wheels look so good. This car is low key, yet really nicely modded. My kind of build. Nice work.
Damn that is high praise from you man, your car is inspiring and tastefully modded. Thank you.

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+1 wheels look really good! Not envious of all the sanding tho

at the "Pegamoose" fender stickers, good stuff.

Re: WGA
Have you tried backing off the preload at all? I had to reduce the preload (extend the WGA rod) a bit to reduce spiking.
Fair use Pegamoose!

I will actually try and reduce the pre-load and see if that helps, though my 13C WGA isn't adjustable (not threaded on the end) so I will have to get clever with the shimming.

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So are you driving that bling up for IPD? I have detailing supplies.
Plan is to drive up Thursday the 17th and chill the 18th. Shoot me a PM with yo numba and I will text you when we get there.
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:32 AM   #90
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Nice work, those wheels came out incredible
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:34 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by slow240 View Post
What all did you have to do to get that 940 down pipe to fit? I'm looking at my 740 pipe trying to figure out what I need to do to fit my 245, and yours looks a lot simpler than what I had figured out
It's got a couple inches cut out of it, and then a slight twist when it got welded back together.

Just get a couple 3" Mandrel 90s and build a real DP if you can man, The 940 piece always rubbed somewhere, and I was never happy with it. My new DP is literally just two 3" 90's shortened a bit and welded together with some bungs thrown in for good mix. It's the only way to fly really.
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:53 PM   #92
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I don't have a Mityvac, But I should get one. This is a great easy test for all WGA me thinks.
Just make sure it's the deluxe model that can produce both positive pressure and vacuum. There are cheaper vacuum-only versions.

If you have an air compressor handy with an adjustable pressure regulator and a pressure gauge, you can accomplish the same thing. The trick would be using a gauge that is accurate below 20 psi.
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Old 05-09-2018, 03:01 PM   #93
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Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.
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Old 05-09-2018, 03:30 PM   #94
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Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.
What, no more crashing on my pullout for you anymore? I see how it is.
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Old 05-09-2018, 05:03 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by Duder View Post
Just make sure it's the deluxe model that can produce both positive pressure and vacuum. There are cheaper vacuum-only versions.

If you have an air compressor handy with an adjustable pressure regulator and a pressure gauge, you can accomplish the same thing. The trick would be using a gauge that is accurate below 20 psi.
Thanks for the heads up, I will for sure get a mode that can suck and blow ;)

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Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.
Plan as of now is for the Mrs and I to leave Thursday early AM and straight shot to Lake Oswego where our friends live now, but plan to ride back Monday. Maybe we can make the return trip together. I’ll keep you posted.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:13 PM   #96
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Yeah, well, ya know, sleep would be nice...lol

Sure thing Chris, we can talk up there.
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:43 AM   #97
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Sure thing Chris, we can talk up there.
For sure Gary, I'm so excite for IPD this year!


So, Now that everything is pretty sorted on the car, I'm on to my next "issue"

Car runs rich on the freeway, at 10 inches of vacuum, 3,000 RPM, 80 MPH, the car runs at 12.5-13.0 AFR according to my AEM WB.

Idles perfect, 14.7-15.0, then it seems to go richer and richer as it warms up. I am going to check voltages on the O2, this feels like an O2 failure (I recall the computer relies on the O2 after the car comes up to operating temp), but am open to some other diag ideas.

It has been doing this for a week or so (before I changed the turbo/DP) and I should have diagnosed it before I did all kinds of other stuff. It has been worse recently though, and this AM it cruised my 13 miles to work at 12.0-12.5 AFR.

So I guess I will pull the covers and start probing around.
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Old 05-10-2018, 03:18 PM   #98
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Yeah, sounds like either an O2 is giving a false reading or maybe the ECT isn't telling it to go closed loop.
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Old 05-10-2018, 04:13 PM   #99
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Realy nice car you got here! Very nice thread with a lot of pictures!
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Old 05-10-2018, 05:44 PM   #100
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Yeah, sounds like either an O2 is giving a false reading or maybe the ECT isn't telling it to go closed loop.
That's what I was thinking as well. Thanks Gary.

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Realy nice car you got here! Very nice thread with a lot of pictures!
Thanks for the kind words!
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