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Old 05-25-2018, 10:25 PM   #1
thelostartof
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Default What clutch fork with hydraulic T5 swap?

So lets just say I think my clutch fork is bent causing my master and slave cyl to fail. So with this I am in need of replacing it. So what fork are you guys using with a T5 swap with the hydraulic setup?

I am trying to talk myself out of spending more $ than I need to so I can get this car back on the road so any advice that keeps me from reinventing the wheel would be great as I am already annoyed enough with this T5 stuff.

Thanks
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:56 PM   #2
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Where you using the stock volvo fork? On my getrag swap I had to grind the volvo fork where it goes over the BMW throw out bearing as it's a wee bit wider. Then I weld up the fork more in the channels making it stronger.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:06 PM   #3
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I am running whatever fork came with the T5 swap that was in this car, it looks like it was the stock fork with some welding and grinding on the end to fit the T5 bearing. I am guessing I am going to be doing something simliar if I pick up another OEM fork. Maybe along with some reinforcement to keep it from causing this issue again.

I can say that I really do miss the two Getrag swapped cars that used to be local (one still is localy just hasn't run in a few years) as they are such better transmissions than the T5.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:37 PM   #4
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There are 2 different forks for the late T/O bearing for some reason. One is cheaper than the other. They may use different pivot balls. The parts catalog isn't clear.

I think these would need to be modified to use the T5 bearing.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...e-fork-1220763

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...e-fork-3549983

The early fork is discontinued from Volvo but Skandix has a few although they're probably aftermarket. I think this one works with the T5 bearing if you use Ben's adapters.

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...lutch/1058534/

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Old 05-26-2018, 12:03 AM   #5
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I use the M90 fork with a modified yoshifab spaced TO beating. 18 months of mostly hard and or stop and go traffic and it seems fine. Might need to get boxed... they are flimsy for what they are.
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Old 05-26-2018, 12:36 AM   #6
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I am using a mcleod bearing that is adjustable as I needed to do that an a few other things to get my clutch to work. Pictures of the m90 fork?

The adapters from.bne I think only work on the cable setup. Either way I guess I am going to need to figure something out.

I really want to get something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-S...T-5,39740.html

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ulic_slave.htm

Last edited by thelostartof; 05-26-2018 at 12:49 AM..
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
I am using a mcleod bearing that is adjustable as I needed to do that an a few other things to get my clutch to work. Pictures of the m90 fork?

The adapters from.bne I think only work on the cable setup. Either way I guess I am going to need to figure something out.

I really want to get something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-S...T-5,39740.html

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ulic_slave.htm
Are you trying to avoid these two bearings because of cost?

Truthfully, I really like my T5 swap. Aside from the cable issues I've had it's been solid. One thing I've learned though... in this frankenswap, typically you're just better off spending the money to get it sorted the first time rather than having to faff about with it all.

Going with the M90 fork I just envision it being a sierra show of fitting this part to that and measuring this to adapt that and blah blah blah aaaaaaaaaand it's bent.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:22 AM   #8
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The M90 fork is the cheaper one I posted.

The early hydraulic fork has pins like the early cable fork, so Ben's adapters should work.

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Old 05-26-2018, 02:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
Are you trying to avoid these two bearings because of cost?

Truthfully, I really like my T5 swap. Aside from the cable issues I've had it's been solid. One thing I've learned though... in this frankenswap, typically you're just better off spending the money to get it sorted the first time rather than having to faff about with it all.

Going with the M90 fork I just envision it being a sierra show of fitting this part to that and measuring this to adapt that and blah blah blah aaaaaaaaaand it's bent.
Not really. It took 20 minutes of grinding and filing and it went on no problem. Serviceability is also pretty damn easy. Take off the snap ring that retains the slave in place, pop the fork off the pivot, yank it off. Not a whole lot to it.
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Old 05-26-2018, 09:56 AM   #10
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I am using the M90 clutch fork (3549983) and a 740T throwout bearing (Sachs SBA8006)...no grinding needed.

Are you using a heavy pressure plate?

You will likely need to either space out the pivot ball or use an drilled out socket head cap screw in the slave cyl "pocket" in the fork to get the initial fork location set (your setup may already have this done).

Pic of clutch fork:
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Old 05-26-2018, 12:16 PM   #11
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Interesting.

Which masters and slaves are you all using?
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:35 PM   #12
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I'm using the 240 clutch master (Centric 136.39000) and 740 slave cyl (Centric 138.39002).

Other misc parts list

For a 740 application, the clutch master cyl is Centric 136.39002
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Old 05-26-2018, 03:33 PM   #13
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Wilwood 5/8" compact for a master and 740 slave on a yoshifab clutch
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
I am using the M90 clutch fork (3549983) and a 740T throwout bearing (Sachs SBA8006)...no grinding needed.

Are you using a heavy pressure plate?

You will likely need to either space out the pivot ball or use an drilled out socket head cap screw in the slave cyl "pocket" in the fork to get the initial fork location set (your setup may already have this done).

Pic of clutch fork:
[ig]http://i.imgur.com/k9LzHuS.jpg[/ig]
Stock TO bearing with what Trans? T5? using the Ford bearing sleeve?

My Pressure plate is very heavy as it is a YoshiFab clutch and flywheel combo.

I already have an allen on the slave rod hole to help space it all out. And looking back at this Picture I think my Clutch Fork was bent when I put it all together 20k miles ago.

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Old 05-26-2018, 04:57 PM   #15
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We'll stock it just pushes on the clutch fork, maybe bolting it to the fork like that had something to do with it bending. Do you have a pic of the bent fork?

I made a custom rod for that also a bit longer then stock for my getrag swap and I used a bolt and just rounded the ends with a grinder. No problems so far with it. Saab areo 9000 240mm pressure plate so probably not as stiff.

Also the m90 fork and the m47 or m46 hydraulic forks seem the same to me. I got one of each. Some of the older ones do have a little hole where the push rod pushes, but it's small, not designed for the rod to go through it. Still has the round cup for the rounded end of the rod to ride in.
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
Stock TO bearing with what Trans? T5? using the Ford bearing sleeve?
I am using the stock TO bearing with a T5 trans, Saab Viggen PP and DeeWorks adapter.
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:22 PM   #17
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Ah the deeworks adater allows you to use the stock TO bearing, so for sure I need to mod my fork to work.
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
We'll stock it just pushes on the clutch fork, maybe bolting it to the fork like that had something to do with it bending. Do you have a pic of the bent fork?

I made a custom rod for that also a bit longer then stock for my getrag swap and I used a bolt and just rounded the ends with a grinder. No problems so far with it. Saab areo 9000 240mm pressure plate so probably not as stiff.

Also the m90 fork and the m47 or m46 hydraulic forks seem the same to me. I got one of each. Some of the older ones do have a little hole where the push rod pushes, but it's small, not designed for the rod to go through it. Still has the round cup for the rounded end of the rod to ride in.
That was what I had to do just to get it to work with the yoshifab clutch, with the stock 2.4 flywheel and setup it worked as normal. So that minior misalignment you see was already there before I even used it. That picture is 2 years old when I first did it.

I do not have a picture of the fork yet as it is still on the car, I will see about pulling the trans next weekend to get a picture of it. But for sure the misalignment of it is worse now than that picture shows.
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Old 05-27-2018, 06:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
I am using a mcleod bearing that is adjustable as I needed to do that an a few other things to get my clutch to work. Pictures of the m90 fork?

The adapters from.bne I think only work on the cable setup. Either way I guess I am going to need to figure something out.

I really want to get something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ram-S...T-5,39740.html

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ulic_slave.htm
I'm running the RAM clutches one on my T5 swapped 240. It required a big long spacer (piece of aluminum tube cut to length) behind it, but other than that it works great.
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:39 PM   #20
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How are you all deciding which and how much spacer to use at the ball?

I have the Kennedy PP and it's great honestly, but it's obviously designed for a dog dish style flywheel so it's spaced off the FW.

You all just playing guess and check or what?
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Old 05-28-2018, 09:58 AM   #21
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Essentially guess & check. With the trans out of the car, I mocked up the pivot ball spacing on the bellhousing only which was easy to mount up to the block a number of times. IIRC the slave cyl has ~.75 - 1" of stroke length with the stock clutch master cyl. As long as the initial position of the slave cyl piston is set so that it does not pop out of the bore at the end of the stroke, you will be ok. When setting up my pivot ball spacing, I allowed for ~1/2" of additional compression at the initial setting (to account for disc wear). Here is a pic of what it looks like at "rest".


One item of note: after a certain point, spacing out the pivot ball will prevent the clutch fork from being removed with the trans in the car. Putting the shcs in the end of the clutch fork (as TLAO showed) eliminates this issue if it matters to you.
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:59 PM   #22
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I put a few extra washers behind the pivot ball on mine to space it out a little bit and then I set my fork up to be basically 90 degrees out from the plane of the axis of the center of the race wagon. I took a bolt and rounded off the ends and it's a bit longer then the stock rod to get the fork where I wanted it. First time I ever did a getrag install at the drags my trans was sticking with the clutch engaged and slipping. Took me a while to figure out that the fork was pushing so far it was then wedging on the throw out and staying there so the clutch was not going back. I fixed that by spacing out the pivot ball and longer slave to fork rod and I put a block of wood under the clutch pedal as I was pushing it too far.




I notice in all these pics, the slave lock ring is in the same spot with the ring holes! The dirt everywhere is when I went off roading up in the hills above scappoose last winter. You only need that rubber fork boot if you do that.

Pic of JohnV flywheel with the saab areo 9000 pressure plate and BMW Z3 clutch disc. 240mm or 9.5 inches.

Last edited by sbabbs; 05-28-2018 at 04:10 PM..
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:45 PM   #23
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Ok well today I just order the m46 and m90 fork from the local dealer, they should be here by Thursday but I doubt I will have the time to pull the trans until this weekend. Once I get it all apart I can see how each fit and work out and then start the welding and grinding to make it work with the T5 Bearing.

I might also reinforce that one like Toby did (not quite that extreme) just to keep it from flexing again with this stiff pressure plate.

And that gives me either a Spare or one to sell when someone needs one right away.

Thanks for the pics and the info.
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Old 06-02-2018, 12:57 PM   #24
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Well I found my failure

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Old 06-04-2018, 08:05 AM   #25
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I hadn't even realized that was a place people reinforced.
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