Here's what a well engineered vehicle is capable of. Not that I actually expect you'll read this..
https://www.toyotanation.com/thread...r-a-ranking-list.197694/page-84#post-14140672
1995 LE 2.2 L 4 cylinder, 5S-FE. 515,007 miles, runs almost like new, all systems performing well. Original engine and transmission/differential (AC is cold, initial temp 37.8? expansion valve works intermittently, would soon need replacement). It will soon, under it's own power, make it's terminal trip to the auto salvage yard crusher.
Body and interior are in fair condition. There is a small rust area on the driver side rear quarter panel and across the top windshield frame.
Since new, it has been driven in a Midwest rust belt state. Never garaged, until 2017. The quality of the manufactures paint was excellent. Waxed and buffed twice a year.
Washed usually every two to three weeks, more in the Winter, particularly the underside areas.
Two unexpected repairs, caused by debris in the roadway, each resulting in replacement of the exhaust system flex pipe. In 2001, ran over a tire on the highway, going about 65 miles per hour, at night. It happened again in 2011, when unable to avoid another tire in the roadway, while driving in heavy traffic.
All other parts of the exhaust system are original. The original alternator was replaced in 2008 (409k miles, voltage regulator).
Has original, upper and lower radiator hose (annual coolant flush, hoses are in like new condition), vacuum lines, oxygen sensor, master cylinder, AC compressor, evaporator, receiver dryer, condenser, expansion valve, power steering pump, plug wires and more.
One check engine light in 2004, replaced the EGR valve.
The original starter (450k miles) was replaced by the dealership in 2012, after misdiagnosing an intermittent starting problem. DIY, replaced the Neutral Safety Switch, which fixed the starting problem, with helpful information from the Toyota Nation forums.
In the spring of 2004 (250k miles), an intermittent problem started. It would start missing, losing power, then regain power. Eventually there was a crank/no start.
The dealership had a difficult time correctly diagnosing the problem. Checked fuel system, vacuum lines, some of the electrical system components. Installing a new distributor cap/rotor, did not fix the problem. Replacing the ignition coil (it had a hairline crack) fixed the problem.
In 2013, (478K miles) DIY installed four Quick Struts, front/rear sway bar links, and upper/lower control arms.
In 2015 (492k miles), the Camry was offered at no cost, to a relative. In the interest of safety, four new tires were installed (Bridgestone 205/65R15 Ecopia Ep422). A complete front and rear brake job (new rotors/ wheel cylinders, hardware, replacing the original, calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders).
The front brake pads (only OEM pads used) over the years, were replaced three times, averaging over a 160,000 miles between replacement. Rear brake pads were replaced once, at 492k miles.
After inspection of the brake lines, because of some corrosion, all new brakes lines were installed.
Because of excessive bushing wear and noise, the rear adjustable control arm bushings were replaced.
Confident, with proper maintenance, it could run another 100k or more miles.
After the work, the relative did not want the Camry. For the last four years it has been driven very little, under 6k miles per year. Recently completed a 450 mile trip, averaged 32.7 mpg, at an average speed of around 70 mph.
It has been a very reliable car. But for a few operator error caused problems, for example, allowing the fuel light to indicate empty once to often, causing failure of the fuel pump, from frequent low fuel levels (unaware fuel helps cool the fuel pump motor). Happened in 2008, since then, the fuel tank has never below quarter full.
Cost of ownership per mile to date: Includes purchase price, finance charges, maintenance, service, repairs, insurance, fuel, license fees and other miscellaneous cost (sound system, four radio's, broken driver side door handle, installed alarm system, ect).
Performed 145 DIY oil changes, using Quaker State 10W 30 oil (3,500 average miles), and adding a half quart of Rislone Engine Treatment with every oil change. Used OEM genuine Toyota oil filters. Mostly used OEM parts and fluids for all maintenance and service.
1995 ? 2019: 15,394 gallons of fuel consumed
$28,924 cost of fuel (lowest price per gallon, 0.86? highest $3.94) average $1.88
33.4 miles per gallon average (about 75/25 highway/city). For many years the commute to work was just over 2 miles during the week (averaged 25 ? 28 mpg). Highest fuel economy was 37.3 mpg on a 900 mile trip, with a strong tailwind, for most of the trip.
Total cost of ownership so far: $88,286, which is about 0.17? per mile. If depreciation is included, 0.21? (depreciated down to zero, or scrap value), which is approximately $307 per month, $376 per month with depreciation included.
From 1995 to 2012 almost all service and scheduled maintenance, was preformed by the dealership (image of a late 90's early aughts dealer recommended service brochure), so the cost were significantly higher then an independent service shop
A valve adjustment was done once, in 1997 at 60k miles (not sure if it was a recommended manufacturers service). Had five timing/drive belt changes, since the original belts were changed at 60k miles.
Last timing/drive belt change was in 2012 (475k miles). Installed a new water pump and thermostat (replacing the original water pump and thermostat). Also installed new oil seals.
Last year, with assistance, replaced the head gasket (some oil seepage) and harmonic balancer (rubber ring deterioration).
Here's what a well engineered vehicle is capable of.
