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Old 10-29-2019, 09:58 PM   #826
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So I started working on tings for the 16 valve. I never liked the stock motor mounts I had on my 8 valve, so I used some 240 torque rods to make mounts that attach to the frame rails. This will be much more solid, and allow for tighter clearance to other things in the engine bay. I'll also be able to drop the subframe without thinking about the engine, which is nice. The driver side one still needs a gusset.



By the end of the process, I started to figure out my MIG with 3/16 plate. I'm confident all of it will stay together, but the beads didn't start looking decent until the last part I made.



This is how the engine is sitting with the new mounts. Higher up than my old mounts, and a bit closer to the firewall, I think.





Obviously the stock heater valve won't work. So if someone needs a NOS, slightly used heater valve, I'm your guy. I may try to do something similar to the bulkhead fitting that STS Machining makes.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:20 PM   #827
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I just put the stock B234 exhaust manifold on to see if there would be room for a down pipe, and there's no way it'll work on a 140 with the engine so close to the firewall. So now I'm deciding between the Yosihfab 8v manifold adapter, or making a custom manifold. The ease of the adapter route is tempting, but I know it's a compromise, and still doesn't address my external wastegate problem.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:25 PM   #828
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So now I'm deciding between the Yosihfab 8v manifold adapter, or making a custom manifold.
it's fun watching the scope creep in real time!
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:01 PM   #829
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Also, story of my life.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:40 PM   #830
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I’m glad this is you and not me . The hassle of figuring all of that out is not something I want to do again. Probably because I’m still not done.
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Old 10-30-2019, 04:02 PM   #831
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Iím glad this is you and not me . The hassle of figuring all of that out is not something I want to do again. Probably because Iím still not done.
Yeah, I literally JUST got done figuring this all out for the 8 valve.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:57 PM   #832
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Whoohoo!
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Old 12-03-2019, 09:05 PM   #833
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Not much of an update, but I did get one thing done. On my 8v setup, I had a little 70 amp alternator because it's all I could easily fit at the time. The steering idler arm bracket takes up a lot of space where the alternator wants to be on the passenger side.

With the new engine, I really wanted more amps, so I made a bracket to fit a Volvo 100 amp alternator. The really short belts keep it tucked in far enough to clear the idler bracket.



I also got the collector that I want to use for the divided manifold. I still don't know if all this twinscroll stuff will fit, but I'll give it a shot.



I'll also want to port the inlet to the turbine housing so it matches a t4 flange, but that's no big deal.




I'm still waiting on a stainless head flange from Yoshifab, then I can start mocking this up. The back up plan is sending the 1.00 T4 housing back and getting a .85 v-band housing and making a manifold for that.
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Old 12-04-2019, 02:40 AM   #834
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You could pair the cylinders prior to the collector to save room. Just a thought
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Old 12-04-2019, 10:26 AM   #835
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Beautimous!
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Old 12-04-2019, 10:34 AM   #836
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You could pair the cylinders prior to the collector to save room. Just a thought
Yeah, there are some nice collectors designed for that. Might be an option.
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Old 12-04-2019, 02:44 PM   #837
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https://monkeyfabgarage.com/collecti...2-00-butt-weld

That's what I use
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Old 12-04-2019, 02:59 PM   #838
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Nice. The only thing making me avoid this is how tricky it will be to join the pair of runners into one, compared to just fitting each runner to the collector. I would basically have to make half a collector twice, then fit those to the Monkeyfab collector.
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Old 12-04-2019, 09:45 PM   #839
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Well how much room do you have?
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Old 12-22-2019, 06:54 PM   #840
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I have another non-update. The exhaust manifold was on hold while I waited for a stainless head flange. I got sick of waiting and just ordered a mild steel one, so I can start tinkering with that for real soon.

In the meantime, I got a hold of a Ford Sierra intake manifold. I'll need to make a Volvo head flange and have Noah weld that on, but other than that, it looks like it'll work.



This will roughly be the clearance from the plenum to the 7" brake booster i got. Should be good.



The TB inlet elbow thing is supposed to go on the bottom of the plenum, but it would interfere with the steering shaft on my car. I'm thinking that I could flip the plenum over and run the TB coming off the top. Might look goofy, but if it clears the hood, I'm ok with it. Flipping the plenum might also make fuel rail fitment a pain, but I'll deal with that later. The other option is to hack up the manifold a bunch and make room for a TB inlet at the front.

I also need to figure out if the stock Ford TB is big enough. The inlet is about 2 1/8", which is way smaller than the 960 TB that we like to use here. I actually didn't like that big TB for drivability on the 8v, so it would be cool to find Ford people making decent peak power on a stock TB.

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Old 12-22-2019, 07:03 PM   #841
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The smaller TB diameter should not be a problem.

Have you also considered running some manual brakes and a balance bar or Hydroboost?
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Old 12-22-2019, 07:20 PM   #842
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The smaller TB diameter should not be a problem.

Have you also considered running some manual brakes and a balance bar or Hydroboost?
I definitely don't want manual brakes. It's a street car, and I don't want such high pedal effort. I've thought a lot about hydroboost, but I don't have power steering, so it would involve rigging up an electric pump just for the that.
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Old 12-22-2019, 07:33 PM   #843
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Add more scope creep with a Mustang 2 front end setup with rack and pinion power steering?
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Old 12-22-2019, 08:36 PM   #844
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double post
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Old 12-22-2019, 08:38 PM   #845
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Add more scope creep with a Mustang 2 front end setup with rack and pinion power steering?
It has crossed my mind. And now that the engine is hanging on the frame and not the crossmember, it would be easier. But I don't really know what a Mustang 2 setup gets me over the stock SLA suspension on the 140. And when I do power steering, I'll probably do electric.
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:34 PM   #846
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Nothing other than the rack. I like a good rack.
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Old 12-23-2019, 10:10 PM   #847
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I have another non-update. The exhaust manifold was on hold while I waited for a stainless head flange. I got sick of waiting and just ordered a mild steel one, so I can start tinkering with that for real soon.

In the meantime, I got a hold of a Ford Sierra intake manifold. I'll need to make a Volvo head flange and have Noah weld that on, but other than that, it looks like it'll work.

This will roughly be the clearance from the plenum to the 7" brake booster i got. Should be good.
What booster????
How much fab work will you have to do to make it work?
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:26 PM   #848
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I definitely don't want manual brakes. It's a street car, and I don't want such high pedal effort. I've thought a lot about hydroboost, but I don't have power steering, so it would involve rigging up an electric pump just for the that.
I thought a properly designed manual brake system is awesome as it provides several orders of magnitude of leverage with superior pedal feel. I was persuaded by what I’ve read to start collecting parts for that future delete. Tilton or Wilwood pedals.
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:14 AM   #849
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What booster????
How much fab work will you have to do to make it work?
Itís one of those generic dual diaphragm 7Ē booster that Summit sells. Iíll have to cut the extension piece back a bit and weld a new flange onto it to accept the new booster. The stock master may work with the holes enlarged, or Iíll have to get a new one.
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:16 AM   #850
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I thought a properly designed manual brake system is awesome as it provides several orders of magnitude of leverage with superior pedal feel. I was persuaded by what Iíve read to start collecting parts for that future delete. Tilton or Wilwood pedals.
Pretty sure a manual system is always going to have a harder pedal feel when compared to a similar booster system. Thereís just no way to get better leverage without a longer pedal throw, unless you add some kind of assist.
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