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Buzzboy's bedroom b18 build

It's loose with just the mains but tight after I installed the pistons/rods. That makes me think tight rod bearings. I'm hoping I can fix it without taking the head back off and the pistons out.
 
Steel timing gear SNAFU

I sold him the steel gear set and IIRC it was 1 of 3 sets I got in some horse trading with another independent Volvo repair shop.

Those 3 sets came in white boxes with ITM labels and they appeared to be NOS SWAG OEM gears and I don't remember having any issues with the other 2 sets.

I have never seen a set of steel or fiber gears that were mismarked and now I have to check even those.

What was the deal with the timing gears?

Cameron
Portland
 
Hello,

The valve keepers have a tendency to get stuck to the valve retainer, so it is a good idea to break them loose by tapping on the retainer with a hammer and a large enough socket before you try to remove the valves.

Classic valve float hammers them in. When upgraded to decent springs the keepers don't hammer in tight and the valve grind lasts many times longer and it has to help the rest of the valvetrain too.
 
You can swap rod bearings with the crank and pistons and head still in place. Just take the caps off, slid the piston up a little, and slide the top shell out.
 
Are the rod and caps assembled correctly? Are the rod undersized? Are the rods facing the right direction? Bearings the right size?: were the pistons put back in the same hole?
 
Are the rod and caps assembled correctly? Are the rod undersized? Are the rods facing the right direction? Bearings the right size?: were the pistons put back in the same hole?
^ That!
I missed once on a B20 motor, couldn't turn by hand anymore after fastening rods.
I was sooooo sure i had put it correct,... well it turned out NOT. Got the numbers correct on caps but switched two rods.
Do not try to force movement!!!!!! loosen parts bit by bit until you can turn it by hand again, then look where the problem is.
 
I'm sure they is something, dot towards the front , notch towards the cam never rebuilt one but most engines have a direction
 
Rod bearing clearance on 1&2 looked really good at 15-17 tenths. 3&4 don't look so great. After I loosened up 4 the crank spins over like it should.

3
BThWxj8.jpg

4
bBYuGF2.jpg
 
Rod bearing clearance on 1&2 looked really good at 15-17 tenths. 3&4 don't look so great. After I loosened up 4 the crank spins over like it should.

3
BThWxj8.jpg

4
bBYuGF2.jpg

Surely the tappered plastigauge implies bent conrods. Look at the pistons for rubbing front and rear.

Do you have a set of early B20 rods in it?
 
Plastigauge is smashed like that because he didn't wedge a screwdriver between the rod and the crank to keep it from twisting
 
Always check the easiest thing first. Two of the caps were on backwards. Flipped around and torqued down. They plastigaged out perfect and the crank rotates freely.
63wpzjP.jpg
 
Early B20 rods are a very worthy upgrade and a direct replacement if you like turning some big rpms.

When you are torquing down the rod bolts, make sure they feel all the same and turn the same angle.

I use wick in loctite after you are done with tightening the rod bolts since torque is a very poor method of tensioning.
 
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