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Jah 240 Plus Turbooo

Haha I like the glove box fix. All I meant was that the axle looked like it needed shorter arms, it must just be the angle of the pic. Knackered is a britishism for extremely worn out. I didn't know/forgot about the poly.

Ohhh, ok. So that the rear wheels sit further forwards? Yeah, that would help a lot haha. I thought you meant centered left to right.
 
I got around to fitting the crown vic wheels up front and I'm a fan haha. If you noticed, the right front is slightly higher than the left front. This is because the previous owner hit a curb on the left and it ballooned the left strut tower top.

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Next on the list is power steering...finally
 
Well the power steering got pushed back another day cause i got a pretty good deal on a bucket seat.

Its a nice charge speed seat but it didn't have any kinda mounting hardware. I found some angled roofing ties which are nice and strong and drilled the wholes so it'll all line up with the stock sliders. Im contemplating on welding some kinda tie between the front and rear brakes on each side in case it wants to twist for whatever reason but for now its fine. Fun fact: The thread pitch for the side of the seat is the same as the flywheel bolts haha.

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Its really comfy and i feel like i can drive a long ways with it.
 
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Excellent! Getting very sorted now. So the Crown Vic wheels were just bolt on affairs? Same bolt pattern right? Good alternative over GTA wheels. How much do they stick out from the fender?
 
Excellent! Getting very sorted now. So the Crown Vic wheels were just bolt on affairs? Same bolt pattern right? Good alternative over GTA wheels. How much do they stick out from the fender?

They aren't bolt on. He needed adapters as the crown vic wheels are 5x114.3/5x4.5
 
They aren't bolt on. He needed adapters as the crown vic wheels are 5x114.3/5x4.5

Yeah, they're 5x114.3 and they are pretty flush with the front fender on the adapters i have. They sit just inside the wall on the rear fenders yet they hit the back of them unless you pull (i hammered haha) them a little. I like how they fit. When i get adjustable suspension, i will also get smaller tires and go lower with them. I like how lightweight they are and since they're OEM from a big name company, I'm pretty confident in their build quality.

Thanks for the kind words!
 
that does not look very strong

Yeah, that was when i first started mocking it up. The final product is really not too different from the expensive seat rails you would buy. The material is more than likely stronger as well, Its used to tie roof joints together haha. The biggest difference is that they're not one piece for each side. I was thinking about welding them together but so far it feels nice and strong. I guess we'll see what happens at the drift event haha.
 
Well i decided to attend to the decomposing foam headliner in the 745 before i go blind from that stuff in my eyes haha. What a chore that was...

My dog was no help haha
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They should fire whoever came up with the design for the sunroof
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Turned out alright. Not sure why it looks saggy, theres a couple small wrinkles though.
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I guess I'm putting a sound system in sometime...a friend gave me this stuff. Just need speakers haha
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No 'real' updates right now cause i spent the day at the junkyard and found some useful stuff, but i was looking at my gauges and got really bothered by the temp gauge that has never worked. A while ago i tried a new temp sensor, i tried to bypass the compensator board, i checked the wiring and nothing fixed it. Today i decided to black out the gauge since it was useless.

What i started with
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At first i was coloring different colors on the temp gauge playing around. The i started scratching with my nail and it just "erased" the whole thing haha. If you take your time and use like a razor, it can come out great. You could probably even match the gloss and satin gauges and clusters if you try hard enough, the satin is just a rubbery coating. I ended up using a red sharpie for the fuel and tach red zones.
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What i settled with
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In the car. Looks good at night, eager to see it in the daylight haha
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I also got rid of the SRS warning light bulb. That was distracting.
 
Do you have a temp gauge elsewhere? I've had more than my share of overheating issues with these cars haha.

Yeah, i got a digital temp gauge from China (it reads in celsius, too haha) and it came with a sensor. I drilled out the original sensor and tapped it to accept the new one and essentially made an adapter to use new cheap sensors in the factory location on the head. Thankfully, i haven't yet had an overheating issue and i got a temp gauge for the first time about a month ago haha. I am having some issues with my thermostat though. It won't open for a while and lets the temps get really scary high.
 
Yeah, i got a digital temp gauge from China (it reads in celsius, too haha) and it came with a sensor. I drilled out the original sensor and tapped it to accept the new one and essentially made an adapter to use new cheap sensors in the factory location on the head. Thankfully, i haven't yet had an overheating issue and i got a temp gauge for the first time about a month ago haha. I am having some issues with my thermostat though. It won't open for a while and lets the temps get really scary high.

This has happened to me a few times. Especially if you get a thermostat from autozone and it doesn't have the jiggle valve in it, it can be a pain to get the cooling system bled and burped.

Two weeks ago I had a heater hose burst on me, fixed it pretty quick in the driveway and then filled it back up with 50/50. Then the thermostat wouldn't open. Started it up, let it get hot, t-stat didn't open so I let it cool back down, and repeated this 3 times. Finally said **** it and just hopped in and took off up the road. Got close to the red but not in it, then thermostat opened and its been fine since.

However, if I get a good wahler t-stat with a jiggle valve in it this doesn't happen to me.
 
Ohhh, right, cause the system burps through the thermostat. I don't recall which thermostat i got but I'm sure it didn't have the jiggle valve. Sucks cause the housing was leaking for a while and i just recently opened it up and rtv'd it...at least its easy to get to haha
 
So with the event coming up, i didn't want to worry about how my AFR's were like last time haha. At the junkyard, i pulled a couple LH 2.4 harnesses, one for a friend and one to use until the event, then it'll be for sale.
Don't worry, i will only be 2.4 TEMPORARILY, I promise haha.
I also thought id document the differences between 2.4 and 3.1 as i go...

I started with the throttle body and TPS. As you can tell, the 2.4 sensor is larger.
LH 3.1 (left) LH 2.4 (right)
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Then the MAF which has a 6 pin connector yet only 5 on the harness for LH 2.4
LH 3.1 (left) LH 2.4 (right)
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Inside LH 3.1 MAF
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Inside LH 2.4 MAF
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I didn't remove the 3.1 harness, just unplugged it and ran the 2.4 one around it haha. I guess I'm doing the exact opposite of a wire tuck...
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I had to lengthen the MAF wires since it came from an NA car.
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Also received a nice MOMO hub in the mail, now i just need a wheel
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I put it off way too long...i finally have power steering again!

To bypass my AC, i just spaced the whole pump forwards and ran a belt from the front crankshaft groove to the power steering pulley.
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I made the spacers out of the old bushings for the accessories. I just held em with some vise grips and shaved em down to size. The front bushing for the power steering pump bracket needs to be 5/8" thick. The bushing for the tensioner bracket needs to be 5/8" minus the thickness of the tensioner bracket itself (didn't get a measurement, will edit later). I didn't measure the spacer in the rear and assumed it should be 5/8" but either i made the spacer too small or its bigger than 5/8". I didn't put one in the middle, doesn't seem to need it.
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All the info i found suggested using a 13mm wide belt but its too wide. I need to get one thats 10mm wide.
 
Well the drift event went....alright i guess haha. I just didn't get as much seat time as i hoped. I did the first couple runs with the crown vic wheels up front and had some bad rubbing issues when trying to counter steer and couldn't get much angle.

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Had to wait until my other wheels arrived to get back out. When i was waiting in grid, luckily i had my helmet off. I heard the craziest, worst sound imaginable outta nowhere, kinda like no oil pressure or rod knock. I shut the car off and checked my oil level and it was good. Turned it back on to see where the noise was coming from. I saw my cam gear spinning nice and it didn't sound like it was coming from the engine. Then i noticed my clutch fan wasn't spinning. I look down and the crank pulley is completely loose and flopping around. I shut the car off and tightened it down and did a lap and at the end my temp gauge lit up and read 136?C! I briefly accelerated and shut it off and costed in to the pits. Turned out the key on the crank timing gear sheared off and the bolt backed out. I took the gear out and asked this guy with an ooold corvette funny car if he had a welder (cause those guys always have tools) and he didn't but we ended up grinding the gear and an allen key and wedged it in there and put it all back together.

This is the end result...
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It worked great and i took it for a slow lap casually driving to see how it went. Ended up doing great so i continued the day. Felt a lot better with the new wheels but still rubbed at full lock.

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Still a whole bunch of body roll but its a lot better than it was. The bucket seat is great, too. Felt sturdy and held me in nice and tight.

The car overheated like 4? and kinda worried me but i figured it was the cheap gauge since it wouldn't get any hotter. I took the car out again in the rain a couple days later and it was running great. Temps were good as new...
 
It looks awesome on the track! Love the wheels! :-P

Good job tho, I'd really like to build one like yours just for drifting and fun, but the lack of drift events and my financial status does not really approve this kind of things. Someday... :cool:
 
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