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Saving A 245 Turbo, or How Not To Do This Sort of Thing

Tried to get the car smogged, but the shop didn't have time today. Looks like I'll have to carve out a chunk of time tomorrow to do another Italian tune up and get it ready for all that hilarity. Again, the car fired up on the first try with zero hesitation though with a bit of an oil drip.

I did something of an Italian tune-up: ran it at 3-3.5k for about 10-15 miles and did a 90 second cool down after slowing to 25 for about a block. I noticed it stumbles at exactly 3500 rpm @ 40 mph the first time I put my foot down after the engine warms up. The issue has replicated itself twice, though it goes away if I do it any other time.

It's been fun so far, though the prospect of failing smog for whatever is weighing on my soul. That decides which road I will be going down over the next X months/years.

Might go redo some of the body work the right way if the car's out for an extended period. I just realized that doing body work on the airframes I help restore in my spare time counts as applicable experience, so I guess I know what I'm doing. Time to start piecing together equipment!


----Interior----

I scrubbed the rear carpet with a stiff-bristled brush with some water, bleach, and Resolve. It looks a lot better, though I didn't have a shop-vac to pick up all the loose sand. I cleaned out the area under the lid in the hatch area...man that was a mess. Need to give it a good wash, shampoo, and vacuum. One of the panels in the cargo floor to the right of the lid is done. Anyone know what that panel is called?

Rear & front passenger-side door cards look okay, though the rear passenger-side arm rest looks a bit tired. I think I will replace that, respray the front driver's side card, buy some vinyl from Joann fabrics to patch the front pockets, and then think about finding new seats from the many junkyards in town.

IPD has the window scraper mouldings for the outside doors, but are the ones in the back for the wagon NLA? How about the inside windows?
 
240 Outer Window Scrapers

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My thoughts are new fuel pump and filter for sure, with a vehicle that old. Might total around 100 bucks, but well worth it to eliminate issues at this point. Make sure your fuel, spark, and air has a solid foundation. Also, there is an in-tank fuel pump that is really fun to replace, but I think the main inline pump does most of the work so if that's new you will be ok for a bit. Replacing the in tank pump will extend the new inline pump's life quite a bit. My kids are screaming and I need to deal with parent issues so I'm cutting this short.
 
My thoughts are new fuel pump and filter for sure, with a vehicle that old. Might total around 100 bucks, but well worth it to eliminate issues at this point. Make sure your fuel, spark, and air has a solid foundation. Also, there is an in-tank fuel pump that is really fun to replace, but I think the main inline pump does most of the work so if that's new you will be ok for a bit. Replacing the in tank pump will extend the new inline pump's life quite a bit. My kids are screaming and I need to deal with parent issues so I'm cutting this short.

Appreciate the advice. Will look into it.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/cto/d/1990-volvowagon-for-parts-or/6718417203.html

Parts car?
 
Apparently the oil leak is bad enough that the shop doesn't want to smog it. The leak is coming from the back of the engine around the oil filter area. Oil drips onto the cross member and then drips on the ground.

I think it's a dud or a double gasket or maybe I dislodged something during the change. The car didn't leak oil when I brought it home. Any other suggestions?

What's a good non-Mann filter I could find at Autozone? I put on a Bosch 3402. Stick with it or go with something else? Goole only brings up results for a non-turbo.
 
Turbo and NA are the same. I dont know about Autozone, but these are some of the filters I know of.

Mann W917
Mahle OC204
Hengst H10W22
Bosch 0451103219
Mapco 61062
Filtron OP568
Purflux LS900
Purolator L19216
Tecnocar R61
UFI 23.127.02
WIX 51311
 
I'm going to temporarily sideline the car until the timing belt & misc. arrive from IPD. It's currently stuck waiting for the MANN air filter to restock, so it's a bit frustrating! I guess I can sort out the reg paperwork in the meantime.

Might pick up some other bitsa from the local Volvo dealer in the meantime: Door lock button, maybe brake pads, and OEM oil filter so far. Anything else worth buying over IPD?
 
While I have you all here, the engine only leaks while it's running and immediately after it's shut off. Is that a sign of a rear main seal leak? It's otherwise bone dry. The engine also didn't leak until after the oi change. No clutch slip either.

EDIT: I've done some homework and I'll probably poke around under the car during the timing belt change. Just wanted to see if any of you have been in this situation.
 
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If you are positive it isn't a valve cover gasket leak it is most likely a rear main seal on the cam. There is a possibility it could be a head gasket compromised in a certain way but I find the chances of that unlikely.

Clean it well with some heavy duty degreaser and let it dry. See if you can toss some baby powder or flour or something to give a clear visual of leakage if it is hard to see the contrast. Have a friend start it and see where the leak is originating from.

Pro tip: If you spray your engine with water when it's warm, be sure to mask off the distributor well or steam will get in there and condense. Then you have a fun mystery misfire, but pulling the cap and wiping it dry fixes that.
 
Thanks for the help so far. The rear cam seal feels pretty grimy and I was staring at the trans bellhousing/engine mounting point with the engine on and it was not leaking. Still gotta feel it while the motor's running. That's probably going to get added to the shopping list once I get my IPD box. Looks like I don't have to pull the engine, so that's a nice way to end the day.

I also noticed the a 2016-dated belt which at least indicates the car was at least cared for and a sign the seller wasn't making it up.

Apologies if it seems like I'm so obsessed with this one issue. The Bentley manual's in the mail and I just want to tackle some of the more obvious issues.
 
Don't sweat it. There is a perfectly logical explanation for what is going on. We will use the ol scientific method and figure this out. I have 4 mann oil filters on hand, but any filter will do for the time being.
 
My thoughts are new fuel pump and filter for sure, with a vehicle that old. Might total around 100 bucks, but well worth it to eliminate issues at this point. Make sure your fuel, spark, and air has a solid foundation. Also, there is an in-tank fuel pump that is really fun to replace, but I think the main inline pump does most of the work so if that's new you will be ok for a bit. Replacing the in tank pump will extend the new inline pump's life quite a bit. My kids are screaming and I need to deal with parent issues so I'm cutting this short.

I tried the flametrap fuel pump test. Took fuse out, ran jumper.

Left side: Pump works!

Right side: Silence. Some sparks, but silence.

Guess that means a new in-tank pump + filter is on the list. Any point in replacing the high-pressure pump as well? What I know of this car suggests it's a pretty recent incident.

Here's to hoping IPD gets that Mann air filter back in stock, because it's holding up my order with the brake pads. Brakes are nice to have! Might just cancel it, I want this car back on the road.
 
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Call IPD and tell them to ship the pads separate. They are usually pretty easy to work with.

If you think the inline pump has recently been replaced you might get away with just the in tank pump. My 240 wagon is in the same boat I think. I just replaced the inline pump and filter under the drivers seat, and the new pump still sounds like a swarm of angry hornets in a coffee can.
 
Update! IPD shipped the parts just as I was about to cancel the order and rebuy everything. I now have the upgrade in-tank pump, filter, brake pads, and a (hopefully) spare tune-up kit in hand.

Hope to get the pump installed Friday and the brake pads Saturday, though that's subject to change. I've also been plotting the rust removal strategy.

Picked up a new toy that should help. Need a few more bits to round out the job, but I have to move a fighter jet first.

3vreYdc.jpg
 
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Nice car, give it a clean, detail and post some photos. I am impressed you have received positive attention form Ken, white wagons have a special place in his heart.
 
I assure you all I have not forgotten about this car. Life's been pretty busy finishing up the F/A-18 restoration project with the local community group and family events - I only had time to pull the cargo floor and give it a good cleaning with laundry soap & water. Boy, this was filthy! Carpet still feels a little tacky so I think I might give it another rinse when I have time, but it's a good sign that the carpet is salvageable. USPS also arrived with the air filter I ordered as I was scrubbing down the carpet.

3ELZ60n.png


The dry desert environment means it's 90% dry in less than half a day. Check back tomorrow for the fuel pump install. I also promise to tackle the rear cargo bay with degreaser if there is still daylight. Goal is to have it running & driving reasonably well by the end of next week now that I have time.

It will be garage kept once I get a handle on the oil leak. Then the fun begins. At least it won't be subject to cat pee courtesy of the neighbor's cat.

The Bentley manual is worth its weight in gold. It is much better to buy this book than throw parts at the problem.
 
The return line has a big 'ol crack in it. Well that's a bit of a setback. Is there a ready replacement from Volvo or will I need to fabricate my own?

GPSFfv1.png



LkGODNH.png
 
That's a rubber cover over the hard plastic fuel line. It's fine just the way it is.

Here's a repair kit.

FuelHoseKit271785.jpg
 
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