I currently have that. Not being able to select a gear is great for drag racing... that's about it though.
I guess you get to spend some money then.
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I currently have that. Not being able to select a gear is great for drag racing... that's about it though.
. Aside from the many upsides to the Evo, one of them is proper gearing for a turbocharged car of that nature.
Let's compare nice Evobitchi 4-5-6 ratios to the available boxes and see if we have something similar.
Evo and a well done Volvo turbo can make similar Haitch Peas and Phhht-lebz so that's a wash
Evo
GSR Model (1 gear not homologated for motorsports) st
Gear... Teeth..... Ratio
1 .....41/14 ......2.928
2 ......39/20..... 1.95
3 .....38/27...... 1.407
4 ......33/32...... 1.031
5 .......31/43..... 0.72
Evo 4-5-6
Gear Teeth Ratio
1..... 39/14....... 2.785
2..... 39/20........ 1.95
3..... 38/27....... 1.407
4...... 33/32...... 1.031
5...... 32/42....... 0.761
or
Gear Teeth Ratio
1........ 39/14........ 2.785
2........ 39/20.........1.95
3 ........39/27....... 1.444
4.......... 34/31......1.096
5.......... 33/40......0.825
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now some Borg Warner commonly used boxes..
And look at the common Ford Mustang T5
1352-253 Ford 1994-95 Mustang 5.0 V8 WC Y
1........................3.35
2........................1.99
3........................1.33
4.......................1.00
5.......................0.68
Meh..OK but kinda shorter 1st (fine for axle ratios like 3.36 or 3.73)
Or the Ford Z spec:
1......................2.95
2......................1.94
3......................1.34
4......................1.00
5......................0.63
Hmmmmm looks similar to EVObitchi except that nuts OD
GM T5 for V8s
1......................2.95
2......................1.94
3......................1.34
4......................1.00
5......................0.73
Looks very similar to that GSR model doesn't it?
And then there's the T5 used in some obscure Euro Ford turbo 2,0 16v things that I can't say cause its a trigger word for a bunch of little hipster boys here..Called 1352-225
1......................2.95
2......................1.94
3......................1.34
4......................1.00
5......................0.80<------------Nice 5th for actual use as a gear (instead of just low rev cruise)
So combine one of those with a back axle ratio suitable for what your doing--but if you choose a axle ratio similar to the Evos---somewhere between 4.3 and 4.56---and because similar torque, very similar gearing in box and final and probably a weight advantage of several hundred pounds---and the Volvo ought to GO similarly..
Particularly 1st thru 4th...
And so you CAN gear it shorter in the axle than most here dare conceive of--and with that crazy overdrive, cruise at noticeably less revs at 70mph or so cruising speed.. A fun dual-purpose car.
And...long term ownership: unlike the Getrags, parts are very reasonable..and very available, and rebuilding the box is well within the ability of home garage guy..vs the Getrag which is a monster pain to just open up and close up and insanely priced parts.
Very cool comparo JV.
John. Thanks for posting this... I had seen a similar post you made somewhere but haven't been able to find it since. Though I remembered you suggesting the GM WC box over the Ford setup (barring the cosseh).
That stated, as much of the info is regarding swapping the Ford boxes in, what's involved in swapping in the GM WC's? I thought I recalled the input shaft being less than ideal? Additionally, once the bell housing is removed, is it the same adapter setup, or do I need to weld (or get a custom) bell housing?
I have a modified bell-housing toyota W58 behind our chump car effort. Its a great transmission. Very plentiful in the junkyard for cheap and easy to rebuild if that's necessary.. We have had 2 clutch failures but I am going to chuck them up to poor quality clutch disk from SPEC. Ordering a disk from Josh @ Yoshifab in hopes to alleviate that issue.
-Sam
Yeah... I can't wrap my head around the modified bell housing setup... How are you all getting everything lined up? I feel like with the tolerances that are required, despite being skilled with TIG, it's above my skillset.
W58 ratios:
3.29
1.89
1.28
1.00
.78
It's got that "mustang" 3.3 1st gear but a closer ratio 2-4 than the GM/T5Z box. The OD and 1st gear make it more of a 3.73 trans.
Anyone thought of a 5 speed auto trans swap for a redblock? Myself I'm past the years of tolerating a manual trans and a clutch pedal.
The T5 really needs the .79/.8 5th gear to make them more fun. 1-4 are great (especially with a 4.88 ring and pinion), but 5th (especially the 0.63) is only good for cruising down the highway.
Good news is that a 0.79 5th gear set can be had from Astro for a cool $300.
https://www.astroperformance.com/product/79-a-5-road-race-5th-gear-kit/
I prefer the clunkiness of the t5 to the vagueness of the getrag. Ever try shifting a getrag really fast? Doesn't like it. T5 just clunks on in.
Yeah... I can't wrap my head around the modified bell housing setup... How are you all getting everything lined up? I feel like with the tolerances that are required, despite being skilled with TIG, it's above my skillset.
Step one install custom pilot bearing into crankshaft and measure the expected total bellhousing height
Step two cut the two bellhousings in half but remember not to cut to much..
Step 3 get your shifter angle correct for welding.
Step 3 was tricky to make sure the shifter was pointing straight up considering our volvo engines sit in the car at an odd angle
Measure for modified driveshaft
Mod the clutch fork to work with the volvo slave cyl
-Sam