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b230ft in 145i Build thread

Its ok guys you can make fun of my shriveled seat. Its pretty tough crowd around here. Touching though no one has said " HA HAA" yet. I was expecting John V to poke fun by now.

Well on a positive note i got 60% of them wrinkles out so they look better than 10 Y/O seats now. I do worry that they will just shrivel again after temp changes. But even when shriveled they are comfy as hell. Ill take shrivel over exposed foam any day!
 
nice job on the seats. it shows you can do anything you want to these cars with enough will to do it your self. I would be proud of those seats if I did them and so should you. Only way they would have turned out better would to have had them done by pros and that would have hurt the wallet bad.
JERIC
 
Well thanks to turbobricks user Saabs i now have a backup 1990 b230f with 140k miles. Not so scared about turning the boost up now !

Ive been taking care of my sick wife, jamie. She has been so suportave of my work on my car and hers that i had to devote the last 6 days to treating her strep throat case and the flue all in one. I never thought id be so happy to return to the garage. Work starts tomorrow when i get up.

Also the volvo dealership had the window track rubber for only 9 bucks a door. The 240 rubbers fit but they are just a hair to big and stick out on the sides to wrap around the frame. you only see 2mm of it but at less than 40 bucks for new ones that look right i gladly paid the price.

Now them windows will not leek or rattle when i drive.
 
So I got around to ordering my led lights for the spedo cluster. I got them here ---> http://www.superbrightleds.com

It was some work researching what standard bulb types fit this cluster. I'm changing the light color to red. I hate the green and after my army days i like the red light because it does not hamper my night vision.

The first bulbs i got are for replacing the green lighting. There are 2 bulbs. Type 194 fit the socket. I ordered these ---> http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...ction=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/WLED-xHP5.htm

your replacing this bulb.
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with this bulb http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...ction=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/WLED-xHP5.htm


To get the actual bulb to show red you have to remove the green lens from the board.
They pop off with a screw driver rather EZ like. Yes the little tabs that hold them in will break.
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Ill take more photos when my bulbs show up.

Now I also wanted to replace the dummy lights as well.

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I don't like how bright the turn signal light, and the brights on light is. the bulb that fits is type 74. So i ordered 2 these less powerful bulbs to replace them. ---> http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/74-x.html

Then for the last 3 bulbs i wanted some power so they will shine when i have an issue. ---> http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/74-xHP.html

Replacing this
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With this http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/74-xHP.html


Again ill take photos when they come in.
 
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Well do to all the requests for a pin-out of the spedo cluster on early 140's I made one for ya all. The green book or any wiring diagram just has them labeled with #'s and letters. You actually have to trace the board and the diagrams to figure this out.

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High res photo so you can read it-------> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12968946/DSCN2229.jpg
 
Very cool! When I finally get a 140 again, I am going to have to remember to check back in here. Now, if only I had a use for a 140...
 
So got the leds yesterday in the mail. Did the pin-out a while ago for testing customer speedos. Yes i do fix these and have tons of parts for them. I don't sell my parts, but I don't believe in holding information back for profit. I like to share everything i do so the knowledge may be preserved long after i leave this earth.

Here is a standard bulb.
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This is the red LED. Its brighter than the white light and the white light would have been hidden under the green lens, taking many lumens away.
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Here are the led bulbs lined up. The big ones are the reds. The small ones with the white tops are the supper brights for the dummy lights and the other 2 small ones are dimmer for turn signals blinker and bright lights lamp.
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End result. This is my testing unit I'll be putting the board in a non scratched box with my original car miles :)
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Bright enough for sure. even see the red over my 75watt bulb from my desk lamp. The dimmer does not work on these leds. So "'m working out how I'm going to dimm these. I'm looking at a inline resistor to bring up the level of resistance and then the dimmer may work. ill let you know results.
 
that looks awesome, the red instead of the green is nice. The lint of the speedometer is still visible with all the red lightning?
 
yep its still visible. I spun the spedo plug got the pointer to jump so i could make sure of that.

Well it looks like resistors will not work. To dimm the leds you need allot more than 8.8 ohm to 0.01 ohms of resistance to see the lights dimm. I put a potentiometer between the 12v in on pin 2 and you need to swing from 10,000.0 ohms to 2.0 ohms to see the lights dimm. the stock unit does not have the range needed. :( guess there will be more to come on this howto as i look at potential potentiometers that will fit.

I had 3 potentiometers on hand a 5k (not full dimm), a 10k (full dimm around 8k ohms), and a 100k did not use to test as i found the range.

Guess ill have a rebuilt dimmer switch for sale.

Ill head out to radio shack and see if this one will fit later tonight.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062354

Im not a fan of the shack but its the closest thing to me open late enough.
 
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Because i will not need my currently rebuilt dimmer and i feel generous ill be giving it away to any one in need that has posted on this thread.

It has been tested and does work with standard lighting.

When you do remove your old dimmer i Will want the core please. So it will cost you about a buck in stamps and the 4inch box i sent it in back.

First to PM me gets it.
 
LOL i want the bad one from your box so I'm not out parts. I fix these things for beer cash and can't afford to loose a core :)

If you don't have a dimmer at all i will over look your core if that's the case Borrie.
 
well got the dimmer sorted out. 2.59 from radio shack, 1 plastic bushing sanded down to an angle 45 cent, 1 threaded coupler 75 cent. and i had 1/4 20 rod. You get a working led dimmer.

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I cut it down to size and put the knob on the end. My camera batt died so no photo of that till tomarrow.

The dimmer works good. Its a bit sensitive I should have not got a liner one. but it works!
 
Just saw that your wagon turned olive drab... i've thought about the same treatment on my 244, not as cool as a ODG 145 though!
 
So finally figured out the window tract seals.

So here is a look at the tract
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180540_1720141655888_1608712812_1532765_3727721_n.jpg


On the top is the one i found to fit the application. On the bottom is the Volvo original.
To give you a price idea for the replacement i found comes in 8 foot sections and costs $14 each. To replace with the volvo seal your looking at $68 each along with $27 each for the two plastic guides as well.

So ,in review, to do all 4 with the seal i found = $67 after shipping.
Volvo just the seals = $272 and if you need 4 plastic guides $108. Thats $380 So it was worth the time to find something else.

Here is the plastic guide Im talking about.
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2 of mine are broken.
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So here is a section of the volvo seal in the tract.
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Here is the replacement in the tract.
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So im happy with the fit !

I called up Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc. (814) 467-9842 , (814) 467-9282
They will want to know part code. Its AS1198. You need 4 of them.

There web side http://www.restorationspecialties.com you can download the catalog there. Hope this helps. I'm happy.
 
So Ive been busy with chrome lately.

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I dislike the volvo plastic clip system. It does not hold well to the body the second time, Its EZ to steal the chrome off the side, and Its $50 bucks to replace them all after 40 years of rot eats the plastic.

So I came up with this fix

183576_1724006952518_1608712812_1539816_320139_n.jpg


Machine screw that fits real snug in the tract. Then all you have to do is line them up and put a lock nut on the back and there on snug.
 
I'm a Lazy bastard so any time I find something i can do in front of my computer screen watching netflix, instead of out in the cold garage.

The emblems on my car are way past due for some restoration.
Before:
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After 2hours of painting and paint removal.
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The worst part about this is I did a set before this when I was tired the night before to my horror when i went to fit them on the car and found out they were 145 minus 1.

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oh I'm giving the 144's away for free ------>http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=3658331#post3658331
 
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