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240 What is the 530 head made of?

Since NGK has always given directions like "3/4 turn after contact", and most "techs" ignore torque specs, this is a rather silly argument.
Want your **** to come back apart? Want things to maintain proper electrical contact without corrosion? Use anti-sieze of some sort. I have aluminum, copper, and nickel. Want to keep oil or water somewhere? Use teflon paste. Want to stop loosening? use some sort of thread-locker (but not in a high-heat area).

Party on.
 
PromiseRing said:
Haha only said that to piss you off. You?re too easy, Jon.

If you?re going to use anti seize on the threads, use it sparingly and reduce torque by 30% as per NGKs words.

530 and 531 head are both cast aluminum.

/thread
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You see I am what is called an adult. Adults generally don't think that there are little no-dick children that are so ignored and despised by the whole world --because of their total, complete uselessness---that just to get a little attention, that they would waste their time and others by writing useless sh!t..
No being as you are in fact one of those little useless no-dick utterly useless children---and socially mal-developed because mommy coddled you up to well last week--you think that people 'get angry', or "pissed off".. This is because being a useless puddle of piss, everything is frustrating....35-40 pages and 200-300 posts to change a cam belt must be frustrating..
But you are once again showing you glaring, pathetic immaturity again.

Adults have all seen hundreds of other spoiled, mal or mis-developed a-social twerps just like you, to a T.

It doesn't piss adults off, just a arched eyebrow and a half harumph..

Go and play with your peer-group now. prove to them how clever you are.
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Uhhh...I don't think I told people I don't agree that it's made of aluminum. In fact, I'm pretty sure I didn't disagree with the people saying it's made of aluminum, I was just playing along with your unicorn dust joke. And I'm not telling others what not to do, I'm just saying that apparently anti seize is not necessary on zinc plated threads according to NGK and Bosch.
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Has nuthin to do with nuthin..Every bolt on the car is zinc plated..MOST every spark plug has been zinc plated---except a very few which have a black phosphate finish--for decades...At least back to the late 50s... Heat, electrolysis. and carbon fouling, and since OBD-2, plugs sitting in the heads for 100k miles is what we're trying to mitigate.
 
mikep said:
Since NGK has always given directions like "3/4 turn after contact", and most "techs" ignore torque specs, this is a rather silly argument.
Want your **** to come back apart? Want things to maintain proper electrical contact without corrosion? Use anti-sieze of some sort. I have aluminum, copper, and nickel. Want to keep oil or water somewhere? Use teflon paste. Want to stop loosening? use some sort of thread-locker (but not in a high-heat area).

Party on.
Click to expand...


What kind of BS logic is that Mike, come on now. :rofl:


Been using anti-seize on my plugs, into iron or aluminum, for the last, oh, 20 years. So far to date, I've had 1 plug get stuck that took more than the normal force to remove. I've had 0 threads pulled, and 0 plugs come out, so yeah, I'm on the DO use AS bandwagon.


So Mike, oil in the cylinders, you'd need to use teflon paste to seal it, thread locker to keep the plugs in place, and anti-seize so you can remove them next time right?
 
John V said:
You see I am what is called an adult. Adults generally don't think that there are little no-dick children that are so ignored and despised by the whole world --because of their total, complete uselessness---that just to get a little attention, that they would waste their time and others by writing useless sh!t..
No being as you are in fact one of those little useless no-dick utterly useless children---and socially mal-developed because mommy coddled you up to well last week--you think that people 'get angry', or "pissed off".. This is because being a useless puddle of piss, everything is frustrating....35-40 pages and 200-300 posts to change a cam belt must be frustrating..
But you are once again showing you glaring, pathetic immaturity again.

Adults have all seen hundreds of other spoiled, mal or mis-developed a-social twerps just like you, to a T.

It doesn't piss adults off, just a arched eyebrow and a half harumph..

Go and play with your peer-group now. prove to them how clever you are.
Click to expand...

If you spent more time working and less time writing books, you could probably finish people?s cylinder heads on time.
 
Who knew I would be stirring up a hornets nest by suggesting the use of A.S.
 
I thought the easiest way to avoid having plugs get stuck in cylinder heads is to avoid POS Ford modular V8s...

I've never used anti seize on spark plugs, but it was never an active decision. Additionally, I've never had a problem taking plugs out, except for back in '91 when I had just bought a '79 Cutlass with a 260 and had to put a 3' pipe on the ratchet to break it free.

I've also never owned anything with a 100k plug change interval, so what do I know from this?
 
I would never install any type of spark plug into an aluminum head without using anti-seize compound. I've dealt with too many aluminum head engines where someone has done so and it took me several hours time over a day or two to remove the plugs using PB Blaster and turning the plugs no more than a quarter turn and then back the other direction to get the penetrating oil into the threads. I have only had two engines where the plug pulled the threads out with it. It is a big mistake not to use anti-seize in this case. The engines I had problems with had plated plugs in them. From what I have seen, the problem is fuel deposits that work their way up the threads and act like red loctite. The anti-seize keeps that from happening.
 
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Try working on old air cooled VW and Porsches without using anti seize on the plugs, exhaust fasteners, and really just slather the whole under side of the car with it.
 
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