LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation

[lookforjoe]

Made the spacer sleeves ('top hats") to properly center the end links in the swaybar







finished the two brackets



4.00:1 FD gear set came, so that will go in when I pull the drivetrain to do the head gasket



....and dropped the X off at the bodyshop to have them paint & blend the nose - I can't do that myself

[lookforjoe]

Finally got the car back from the bodyshop - pouring rain, but it's gonna be like this for days & I just want it home

Happy with the nose, the lines where I had to merge the planes came out OK





They did have to redo some of my work on top





spolier (modified S40 rear bumper cap)...





hopefully get it all back together over the next week or so

[lookforjoe]

More front end work needed - probably due to the accident, the r/f wheel bearing has play - makes for a very nasty crunchy feel to the steering & twitchy handling

press out hub



remove some bits, press out bearing



uses two v-ring seals similar to 240 -



new bearing going in



using a (Volvo) carrier bearing (32008x) race to finish pressing



reinstall the various seal plates & retainers, Torque spindle to 160ft/lb, done



Also found the left upper strut mount has deformed - which will mess with the camber, so I modded the Coil overs I made to take Ford Focus top mounts - still using the Kaplhenke 2.5" (Luxe Steer) spring seat from my V70 coilover setup & Volvo 700 pivot bearing (3530341)



this



replaces all this



just had to shave the ridges off the bearing to allow it to sit flush on the back of the strut mount



much cleaner



just have to redrill the top plate for the new mount

[lookforjoe]

Started putting the nose back together, now that the suspension /steering work is resolved.







Got the 760 sway bar back in with the C30 end links, and SuperPro bushings (SPF1025-23K)











Drilled the strut towers for the Ford mounts

[lookforjoe]

Got a K20Z3 (RBC-1) head - better flow than the RBB I have now. It is all nicely cleaned, decked & valve seats recut. Keeping the TSX cams & RBC gear limited to 40º. I'll swap it out when I drop the drivetrain to deal with the currently leaking HG, and install the 4:00 R&P.







Car went back to the bodyshop this week to fix a few small things that just weren't right. All good now.





Worked on the tape stripes and decals whilst the temps are still in the 60's - I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to deal with than old school vinyl for sure















Used a 3mm gold strip to even out the (hand) cut edge



S40 rear bumper cover worked out great for the spoiler :D

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

Forgot - I also did this to my C30 over the summer

This past summer I added a VW - based Haldex controller - had to use a VW Gen2 DEM for it to interface.

had to make a harness that would interface with the module/factory wiring





installed in pass rear seat well



VW DEM replacing the Volvo unit





Uses a BT app on my phone



After much back & forth through mechanical and software issues, I now have full control over the AWD torque split - I can go from 50/50 down to 90/10



They are developing a version that will work with the Volvo DEM, now that I have worked with him on extracting all the Volvo CAN inputs needed for brake, steering angle, reverse, speed, etc.



using CAN Analyzer to figure out the inputs



With the CAN inputs working, I can set the parameters for disengagement when parking, turning corners at low speed, etc., that will normally cause axle bind with a locked diff.

Very happy it is figured out before the winter weather begins in ernest!

Put a Quaife QDF 11J in a spare rear diff I bought, so that can go in now I know the AWD is fully functional

[lookforjoe]

Removed the electronics & the exhaust





dropped the drivetrain, or more accurately, lifted the body off it



cut off the remnants of the water pipe tunnel & removed the damaged water pipes



Made a replacement (removable ) cover from the cover cut from my parts car









primed, caulked & painted the inner tunnel



Fixed the broken AC compressor ear



pulled the head off today







pretty sure the reason for the HG leak lies with the liners there is a discernible ridge between 4&3 and 3&2 - I can feel it with my fingernail, so must be at least .005"







The block was decked 600 miles ago when I had the bore & hone to take care of the rust in #4 cylinder.

my whiteblock decking for comparison - pretty sure the Honda block should be equally flat

[lookforjoe]

So turns out it's not as dire as I imagined - spoke with the machine shop, and he lent me one of the certified flat bar stock they use for final decking. I went over the block with 180 emery liberally lubricated with wd40 (after blocking off all the oil & water ports) and was able to get the ridges gone without any drama, just about 1/2 hour - 45 mins work. Should be able to assemble the motor after work tomorrow, I hope

[2 old for this]

Your 4x4x4x4 jack extension looks like a death trap!!

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by 2 old for this

Your 4x4x4x4 jack extension looks like a death trap!!

I know, right?. I incrementally jacked up the rear, setting the jack stands, then added another block and so on until I got the space I needed to get the motor out. It wasn't as hairy as it looks.



When I did the subframe mods, I used my engine hoist and custom brackets to attach to the inner frame rails in the trunk. Problem there is that the legs really make the whole thing very awkward.

[lookforjoe]

Today I started putting the engine back together - first I had to fit the KTuned elbow on the head, which required drilling & tapping an M6 hole, and tapping the EGR port off #4 to block that from the water housing (using 1/4" NPT plug)







OEM head gasket this time, no more DNJ



head positioned on the dowels at each end



head torqued to spec in 3 stages, 29ft/lb, 90º, 90º. I reused the head bolts - no stretching on any of them checked as per the shop manual






Assembled the valve train & cams, (sealant applied to back edge of carrier that falls outside back of head)



Cam timing verified prior to installing the tensioner





marked chain links used to locate reference dots on cams & crank gear



Timing cover & mating surfaces all prepped, so tomorrow I can get the rest of it back together, then I'll pull the transaxle & install the 4.00:1 ring & pinion

[lookforjoe]

Finished assembling the motor - front cover installed, crank pulley torqued, valves adjusted





pulled the transaxle



dismantled,



stripped the countershaft & transferred to new countershaft - each gear has to be pressed in turn



New shaft has a different size OD - needs a 35mm ID bearing vs. the 40mm original



retaining bolt torqued to 87ft/lb



chopped up a C30 shifter to use



heated and shaped the lever to dogleg it over to the left - so it will be centered in the console. C30 shift knob has the correct shift pattern to match the TSX 6 speed.





Back when I had to mod the AST5 casing to take the RSX shift assembly -







The problem with that is the RSX assembly flange sits directly on top of the old bolt hole at the right in the pic. It's been seeping fluid for the past 600 miles, so I figured I should try to rectify that whilst the case is apart.

I cleaned & filled the old passages with JB Weld - I'll sand & plane them to make a seamless seat for the shaft assy



I also installed the 4.00:1 ring gear on the mFactory LSD today - bolts torqued to 89ft/lb

[lookforjoe]

Countershaft bearing finally came, so cleaned up the shift gate flange, I got the transaxle back together, mated with engine, new (Volvo) T/stat in place, SS water pipes (made by Brown& Miller Racing Solutions) installed, and drivetrain hung in bay before the daylight went away

[lookforjoe]

Got the subframe in, axles, suspension & brakes back on, and removed the shift assy, cut, drilled & welded the modded C30 shift lever in place








Volvo 740T expansion tank hose cut to fit



C30 Shifter





has the correct shift pattern to match the Honda trans

[lookforjoe]

I got the shifter & cables back in, the slave cylinder reinstalled, reattached the starter cables, etc., the water pipes back in, made a new plenum gasket, and installed the plenum
















Putting the TB, inlet, Header & exhaust back on











Switched to a different ECU fan PWM controller - less features but comes with directions for DIP settings



Going to add EMPI 12" limiter straps to make servicing the axles without stressing the CV's as soon as the strut is removed - going to go from the (bracket previously used for rear swaybar endlink) control arm to the triangle reinforcement forward of the rear crossmember.

[lookforjoe]

Modified the Console to fit the Volvo P1 shift boot





Got all the EMS kit back in the trunk, I have the engine running. I still have the problem with the coolant temp running well over 190º before the thermostat opens, by then it doesn't come back down to normal op, even with the fan cycling. What I surmise, is that with the T/stat housing extension I had to make to fit the t/stat where it makes sense for my layout, the (stock 180º) T/stat doesn't get up to temp until the head temp is around 210º. The extension is dropping the coolant temp at least 20º at the t/stat.

extension connects to water housing, expansion tank (top) heater return (bottom)





going through spares I have - looking for 160º or 170º



ended up buying a 13376 (Stant 160º) - drilled a bleed hole & reduced the OD of the bypass shut off to clear the housing base.



since these are 54mm vs. 56mm of the original Volvo units, I needed a spacer seal to make up the 7mm seal height needed for the P1 t/stat housing cover





With the 160º t/stat installed, I now have head temps at the water outlet housing of 184ºF, and the rad fan cycles at 190º, right where it's supposed to.

[lookforjoe]

Headlamps back in







Installed the rear limiter straps (EMPI 12") needed only for when servicing the struts to prevent straining the Honda CV's



used 7/16-20 seat belt bolts for the control arm attachment

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the engine cover & splash guard (chopped up P1 splash shields)







version I made before accident



after accident



under repair, adding sections to improve coverage



pulled dash in preparation for heater box removal, also have some more wiring to deal with

[lookforjoe]

Put the ductwork back in to check harness routing, had to rewire center console harness (again) to allow it all to be pulled back when servicing the console switch housing.



This is where I left off, temps dropped into the teens, too cold to work out there



Decided to work on the dash / cluster layout, since that I can do in the house & basement

Went through several incremental revisions of the binnacle - which is a typical 80's Bertone layout - really boxy design.
When Bertone designed this revision, they moved the entire cluster several inches closer to the driver, which cuts off visibility of the gauges. They did this to allow for the AC side dash vents to pass behind. Sloppy work, as they could have spent time making the layout more efficient & not add so much space between the bulkhead & IP

pass side



driver's side - you can see the offset of the fixed tube could have easily been angled to allow at a couple inches of more of additional space here





Depth from dash to center vent - this is where the AC panel has to fit, so space is more critical



chopped a couple inches off the back of the control panel, to allow it to sit back and on an angle



Initial plan - eliminate some of the binnacle to reduce the overhang & angle the center panel toward the driver







After 1st cuts - what I did was cut off the outer 1/2" lip of the binnacle first, to then attach it later once the work is done, hence the masking tape here



Comparison with original binnacle ( I cut up the spare from my parts car)



It appears the binnacle is solid rubber, or a rubber-compound, it cuts & smells just like old tires

In cutting the binnacle, I also realized the cluster is elevated relative to the main dash, more obvious with the tapered exterior chopped back. This also doesn't help with gauge visibility, so I will address that also



you can see the 'ramp' here



chopped another section off the binnacle, and reduced the thickness of the lower ledge about 1/2" or so





Having dropped the cluster base, I had to remake the face panel for the gauges. Will be covered in vinyl





I had also chopped off all the stock cluster mounts, so I had to figure out a new system. What I ended up with, are those generic household shelving brackets - I drilled installed M4 rivnuts in them to secure the panel, and drilled through the rubber to utilize the existing peg mount

test on scrap - recessed the flange into the rubber





Five mounts in place - detail



seat-of-the-pants rebuild of the center support panel for the AC controls & extra gauges (used to be the radio location). Reversed locations - AC on bottom, gauges one top. I use ABS plumbing cement here. Patch it together to align with available dash mount points (3)











a little UPOL Gold to fill the imperfections where I chopped apron 3/8" off the top of the binnacle



overall layout - moved WBO2 to main cluster, even with a modified VDO bezel, it still protrudes more than the old VDO & Veglia gauges (which I want to keep)



AlpineTech makes nice indicator bulbs, so no need for the descriptor labels I had previously





Happy with the overall flow now. I like the setback into the dash compared to the massive overhang of the stock layout.



Just have to cut another tweeter hole (using tweeters from the S40 AWD parts car), and repair the one crack by the right of the center vent





What I was using for comparison (in the setback of the cluster dept.) - the original 70's dash layout -



compared to mine ('87) as it was

[lookforjoe]

Covered the dash top with 1/16" neoprene, then with faux leather (vinyl) that has the same texture as the original







GPS unit for the speedo



test fitting in the car, need to rearrange a bunch of wiring





Gauges still partially obstructed, but I can see the top left outer & top right inner by moving my head slightly



wired the tweeters so they can be unplugged at the base of the dash, no way to reach the actual tweeter once dash is in. Also put V70 under dash lights in the lower strip, hopefully give some light under there.

[lookforjoe]

Been working on the right side wiring





Relay box back in



added an fused aux power supply junction for some the extra crap I've added over the years - should be familiar to some of you



central lock



replaced the old molex-style connectors (that overheat) with TS090 housings & terminals





rewired for VW 99 programmable delay wiper relay

original crap



new(er)





Volvo wiper relay also works now - just no programming



With that mostly resolved, I removed the HVAC box to deal with the heater core







with the box out, I tidied up the wiring behind



Tweeter covers finally came



have to rebuild the HVAC box next

[2 old for this]

Impressive