LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation

[lookforjoe]

KTuner base mapping. IACV has to be blocked off for it to idle.

https://youtu.be/6GZ4h4YLnYc

FIRST DRIVE

No operational speedo, have to figure that out

https://youtu.be/GGOYvPIhpoQ

[VB242]

Congrats, looks like fun!

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by VB242

Congrats, looks like fun!

Many thanks - it certainly is. Will be awesome once the kinks are worked out & I get it dyno-tuned

Welded the bias bar sleeve to the brake pedal



cut a slot for the bias bar to recess in to



Worked on the MC mount plate mock up





Need to add ridge to make plate more rigid



1.25" offset will be good



3.25" height, 4.5" wide



Will add webbing to support mount plate



clutch pedal needs to sit approx 1/4" out for stop to sit on buffer/adjuster



Bushing needs to be 6.375"



Have to cut this out more where mrker line is to allow pedal to come forward / up




Bought some 1.25" and 3" flat bar stock to work with. Then I remembered I had a spare eBrake pulley cover from the parts car, so I cut that down. Alrady has a nice rolled edge for rigidity



Bolts will be welded in place - reverse position of what is shown here - no practical way to access the bolt heads once the webbing is in







Welded the brake pivot extension

"L" section under the forward edge



rear extension



With V70 clutch master in place



Have to cut back the bracketry directly under the bias bar - it is just touching on the midsection plate at full height

[lookforjoe]

Wrapping up the pedal box welding. Required assembly/diassembly multiple times to check fit, clearances, adjustments, tweaking of clearance areas around the Bias Bar, MC fitment area fettling after welding, etc.,





bent pedal arm again to get 4" offset back. Can't be wider, just no room under there



























Brake lines from MC's have to go the this junction. Have to make those next. 3/-24 at MC to M10x1.25 (or is it 1.00 pitch, I forgot) at junction



Hose routing



or

[oldschoolvolvo]

I can imagine that took a lot of tweaking for sure, but final product looks good!

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo

I can imagine that took a lot of tweaking for sure, but final product looks good!

Thank you. Happy with the overall progress.

I made the brake lines today. The stock MC had two front outlets, so I needed to split the front output to two lines. I repurposed one of the stock junction boxes.

Stock layout that I am replacing:



Cross-drilled the channels & tapped with 1/8 NPT to block it off



Blocked off one of the outlets



Lines done



Rear MC goes to the single junction. MC ends are 3/8-24, junction end is M10x1.25



Bracket will retain the two junctions

[lookforjoe]

Junction bracket done



Got a 50º PND gear off an RSX. Not going to be happy with 25º limit of the RBB / TSX gear



Added a limiter pin, reduces max advance to 40º, safe limit for the 2.4 vs the 2.0



Set crank to TDC



Cams set



tensioner cover - removed and tensioner pinned to prevent chain extension



Cam caps off



Cam out, gear swapped, cam in. make sure my chain markers aligned



rotate couple revolutions, check timing again



All back together





also added iVTEC emblem to the trunk, and put on my new plates

[lookforjoe]

Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash.







M4 rivnuts









vinyl cover



Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure

[lookforjoe]

Finshed the wiring of the extra gauges





Just need black screws



SpeedoHealer to try & get the Honda trans to talk to the Fiat Speedo :D



Had grind back the shifter base to clear the frame when shifting into 5th



After that, put the console back together for now

[lookforjoe]

Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space



in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good.











Still have to do the Dallara stripes - like this:





Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see

[lookforjoe]

This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel



holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed







Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements






and so...



Wirign goes slow.







GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there

[lookforjoe]

finished the cluster install, nice to have a working speedo & accurate tach





CEIKA revised offset parts came, so I put the front brakes in













Figuring out the remote adjuster for the brake bias bar. Their instructions are confusing. They say to remove the jamb nut, but without it the adjuster will just undo if trying to go CCW, so obviouly the jamb nut has to be kept in place.

[lookforjoe]

Finished the Dual Master setup & installed in car. Pedal has never felt so good.





Some bending and repositioning of the stock hard lines later...



tight fit around the heater box & vacuum valve





Had to make a new adaptor line for the Volvo V70 clutch master - there was no room to attach the hard line to the original one I made



Bias bar adjuster was a PITA to attach



Had to drop it & swap out the clutch hose for EPDM



Used a section of C30 expansion tank hose

[lookforjoe]

Finished up the remote adjuster for the balance bar.

Made a bracket for the adjuster knob, and a reinforcing plate for the backside of the dash. Threaded the knob plate for M4x.75 screws







making a retainer for stereo in glovebox







finally washed the car for the first time since last fall



interior mostly back together





replaced the ambient temp gauge I had put in with one that is easier to see in sunlight

[DET17]

Very impressive project. Any idea how many hours work you have invested?

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by DET17

Very impressive project. Any idea how many hours work you have invested?

Just for the Honda Drivetrain conversion, conservative avg would be 2 hours a day, everyday since Aug :D

[lookforjoe]

Been driving it whenever the weather is good (days above freezing and clear skies) - got over 220 miles on it now. Much teething issues - still don't have working IACV which is causing nasty random throttle tip-in jerkiness, and the AC lines at the compressor need to be re-worked o get them off rubbing the engine cover hinge. Smelling burnt coolant also. Did the CO2 sniffer test at the reservoir which did not indicate any exhaust gasses in the system, but it's defintely smoking on first start. I'll have to do a leak-down test next.



extended the fittings here, but this is too ungainly and the extended leverage loosened the high side the first time I took it to work.





Got some new variations on compressor fittings to experiment with a more 'relaxed' fit for the lines



Also rewired the center console to use the early style rocker switches & panel. Finished up the keyless entry & stereo install in the glovebox also








Not happy with the AWD on the C30 - doesn't engage quickly enough or agressively enough. I'm putting a Quaife 11J in the rear diff - had to be welded to the ring gear





after that was machined off the original diff



Besides that, I'm switching to a VW Haldex module to use in concert with a Van Der Veer controller that can be adjusted and monitored using a phone app. The current setup cannot even be checked from VIDA since the system is not integrated into the BCM/CEM.

I also spent some time yesterday welding a new flange for the external WG I'm using as a exhasut dump valve (set to 10psi) - the original was severely deformed when I welded it to my sectioned exhaust piping. You can also see where it was hitting the frame rail on haevy bumps - now it's offset downward another inch or so for better clearance

[lookforjoe]

Remade the low side(#10) hose. 135º fitting at compressor, #12 MOR, welded to #10 beadlock hose barb. Nice & relaxed fit now.



Made a new high side elbow off the compressor fitting - with that I have a good fit



Drww it down, but wouldn't hold vacuum for an hour - had to recrimp the #8 hose I made at the condenser, that has been a problematic one.



Used the #6 die to make it tighter crimp - no more leak



It's pretty cold out, however it still gave duct temps about 30º below ambient, so I think its a success

[Harlard]

Jealous. My duct temps are always at 50, whether it's hot or cold out.

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the Volvo rear diff today. Getting frustrated with the Fiat - can't figure out the idle surge fixed. AC system is done finally, thank goodness.

Note: 999-7160 special tool required to remove rear axles without damage to casing

Installed the carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2



about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains



preload shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster



right side cup & preload shim going in



diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb



new axle seals 8653928 x2



preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals



Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange





Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump.

On the Fiat, still trying to resolve the idle issues. Found the IACV connector I used is numbered backwards compared to factory diagrams



factory diagram



Tried flipping the ground & signal wires to what should be, and then the engine won't rev, TPS does not register. The two circuits are not directly related in terms of wiring, so I don't know where to go with this. I did order a new OEM IACV, as the aftermarket one is definitely non-functional.

I modified one of the dead ones to make a manual adjuster - it works but requires one setting for startup, and another for driving, ot practical for daily driving

[lookforjoe]

Finally resolved all my idle & throttle tip-in/part throttle weirdness. The problem all along has been the aftermarket IACV, somehow backfeeding the system in ****ed up ways. New Honda-packaged IACV resolved all that



Just have to tidy up the wiring



Cut up a C30 splash shield & used it as protective plate







Minor seepage at one of my heater line fittings, fixed that



Took it for a very short burst

https://youtu.be/Fl7aK2-Ht7c

[lookforjoe]

Moved on to the finishing work on the body - this type body came with stripes like this:



Made templates for the decals















Applying the film is a PITA!





Adding the upper pin striping















Took it out so I could see it in natural light







Still have to do the rear sections, and right side fenders

[lookforjoe]

Finished the decals around the car. Have to redo the left side duct area, the rest all have some imperfection, those I can live with.

[lookforjoe]

Reworked the nose decal so that the spacing is even with the hood line



Colors match the fire hydrant nicely, I noticed



added xpel film under the rear ducts - already getting stone chips in those panels

[lookforjoe]

Made lexan HL covers - the original looked like this:



template - since my nose line is more angular, I added the contour



cut the lexan, creased in a vice with heatgun



will fit thus:



Made "L" brackets with m4 rivnuts



brackets riveted



Positioned the lexan then drilled the screw holes





After that I chopped an inch off the 960 lip I had added to the fibreglass spoiler



I had added it to level out the waves in the fibreglass, but it ended up being too visually heavy/weighted



After that I made the templates for the lettering that goes on the doors of the original version. Have to find a place that will print/cut them from a red vinyl that is close to body color (Volvo Passion Red)





Then I added a very then stripe to the spoiler lip, mainly to protect the painted edge from chipping after the cut



To balance it, I added the same to the rear valance



Finally, I had to redo the high side hose from the compressor to the underbody line. I had made metal lines for that, with a junction for the Fiat Clutch cut off switch, however I found my welds were seeping





So I made a one-piece line using reduced barrier #8 hose & crimped the fittings in-situ. Since it runs through a tube I set into the frame rail, it would now need to be cut for removal. It's not in the way of anything so that should not be an issue down the road.







secured to the inner fender



Last thing there was to add the Volvo/GM AC clutch (1259519) switch to the accumulator to replace the Fiat version I had in the high side line