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The b6304/t6 hybrid thread!

Series #8217 said:
Can you do a scratch and rust test on one of those treated bolts? I'm curious as to how well that finish holds up. I hate finishes that come off when you stick a socket on the bolt head..
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I installed and torqued the water pump bolts today, and you can't even tell. I couldn't be happier. It is the same process that the OEMs use anyway.
 
10 Beadblast
20 Clean
30 Paint
40 Goto 10

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There is a distinct possibility that I have lost my mind.
 
Entirely possible you HAVE lost your mind, Chris, but I like where it's taking you.

FWIW, I have tapped and threaded Pulsair holes in my 405, and they're just hunky-dory after 3 years. Of course, they're 3/8" UNC, probably larger than what you're working on, and the heads are on the outside of the port so if they back out they only leave a hole and not a big turbocharger-shaped mess.
 
Doug who?

Dude chris you're giving him some serious competition in the cleanliness department! Out of curiosity could you go into a bit more detail about the easy off max stuff that you mentioned in post #33? Like, what is it, some sort of oven cleaner type stuff? Do you just spray it on then hose it off? The end result looks marvelous!
 
The Aspirator said:
Out of curiosity could you go into a bit more detail about the easy off max stuff that you mentioned in post #33? Like, what is it, some sort of oven cleaner type stuff? Do you just spray it on then hose it off? The end result looks marvelous!
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I'm afraid that's trickery! The easy-off max is a really great cleaner (you're right, it's oven cleaner. be sure to get the max stuff, as the ordinary stuff needs to be heated, like in an oven. the max formulation is "fume-free", meaning it cleans without the oven being on...so it works on cold engine blocks :) . It cleans well, but there was still a lot of discoloration on the metal itself. It's painted with dulpicolor cast-coat aluminum, actually, all the cast aluminum parts are. Thats for two reasons--makes everything have the same shade of silver, and it makes it way easier to keep clean, the paint seals up all the pores and smooths out the surface. When prepared right, the duplicolor is pretty damn invincible.

edit:// tits, don't worry, as soon as I break the auto, I'll get an M90. I just hope eveyrhting else holds together long enoguh so I can afford one when I do break it. And you can tell I'm serious cause I ahven't bothered to clean and paint the trans :-D
 
D123GT said:
What transmison are you going to use and is it going to be a manual and rwd?
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He's got the stock automatic box on there. But don't worry, he has paddle shifters. :)
 
Series #8217 said:
Bump! Did you die, Chris?
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only a little. more of the same, still painting. steve said he could weld the head but he was kinda busy today drinking and helping with the blue car, which....shat the transmission. The fluid has like, dirt in it. Heh. In any event, I'm gonna port out the exhuast ports before welding, because I'm not sure how much material needs to be welded, and how much would be removed.
 
Porting this ****ing thing is loud, messy, and tedious. On the plus side, it doesn't look like its pumping through a drinking straw so much anymore. roughed in 4 for 6. gotta finish the other two... then on to the sanding rolls.

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Some more of these...

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The flash eliminates all color, depth, and perspective, and no flash results in seriosuly blurry pictures if I don't remain perfectly motionless. So ****.

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Ignore the blue tape, just things that haven't been torqued. Keen-eyed readers will note that theres blue tape on virtually all the parts...cause they all come off if I go ahead and put my magic rods inside that big aluminum thing there.


Also, it appears my weight reduction efforts have gone terribly wrong!

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(refer to previous comment about flash vs. no-flash. oh well, you get the idea)
 
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