home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-13-2017, 03:29 AM   #1
1988760
Board Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Default Who handles Volvo water pump seals

Hi...my 88 760 T-Wagon Hepu pump is 6 years old with 13K miles on it. I notice the grommet seems to leak a bit. Start the car cold and it leaks a bit, after it gets hot the leaking stops and the coolant burns dry. You can watch it run when hot and not a bit of leakage. Let it get completely cold and a bit of leakage, Then a bit after start until hot. Seems to be a hot and cold contraction.

I am afraid the grommet may partially break away and there I am. Everyone says use a Hepu pump with Volvo seals. I can find the pump, but who handles the Volvo seal package? My mechanic suggested new seals on the old pump...what do you think of that?

Thanks in advance,

Bill
1988760 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2017, 02:29 PM   #2
esmth
dirty swede
 
esmth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Default

I am also looking for the volvo seals. I want to have them on hand when my autozone water pump seals start to leak
__________________
1991 244 +T LH2.4 m46 291k miles with B cam advanced 4*, 962 fuel & 148 ezk, T5 white injectors, 2.5" exhaust w/ magnaflow straight-through & some kaplhenke suspension goodies
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2017, 02:34 PM   #3
lummert
Board Member
 
lummert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portland IN
Default

Felpro carries a B230 water pump gasket kit for about $1.49. Comes with the gasket and a water pump to cylinder head seal, but not the coolant pipe to water pump square cut o-ring.
__________________
Trying to understand stupid people is like trying to pick up a turd by the clean end.
lummert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2017, 02:45 PM   #4
hiperfauto
Board Member
 
hiperfauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So Cal
Default

As you probably already know, Volvo doesn't sell a water pump gasket kit for the B230 engine. I have the OE Volvo top seals and heater pipe seals in stock, but the Volvo gasket is ridiculously expensive so I use Reinz gaskets.
hiperfauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 12:34 AM   #5
lverhagen
negahrevl
 
lverhagen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Cinsanity, OH
Default

hiperfauto is correct, Volvo does not make a kit; however, the gaskets are available individually.

There is one paper gasket and two sealing rings that are normally included in a water pump gasket kit. The Volvo OE part numbers for each are as follows:

1378491 is the paper gasket
3547991 is the mushroom-shaped top o-ring that seals against the head
418411 is the square-cut o-ring between the water pump and the coolant pipe

The links above are for Tasca Parts, who have the three seals for a total of $13.21 before shipping, etc.

I hope that helps.
__________________
Feedback Thread

7/900 Parts for Sale

Quote:
Originally Posted by SquareD View Post
Restore this thread to stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowRide View Post
"Towards thee I roll, thou all-destroying but unconquering whale..."
Current Cars:
1987 Volvo 740 Sedan ~180k - ultra-swag beater/lender status (aiming for stage -1 at best)

1989 Volvo 740 Turbo Intercooler Wagon ~151k - some body and suspension damage resulting in a currently undecided fate

1995 Volvo 940 Sedan ~182k - bringing up to stage zero and beyond
lverhagen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 12:46 AM   #6
lummert
Board Member
 
lummert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portland IN
Default

Dimensions for Volvo 418411 square cut seal are:
ID: 25 mm
OD: 35 mm
Width: 7 mm
lummert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 01:20 AM   #7
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988760 View Post
I notice the grommet seems to leak a bit.
When installing a water pump, I seal paper gasket to pump, let it dry, and then use silicone grease on other side, and on both rings.

After putting pump in place, with nuts/bolts attached finger tight, I think I used a wooden long handle on a wire brush, and inserted it around base of pump, and applied an upward pressure, and then tightened down nuts/bolts.

There was something below water-pump that I placed one end of this handle on so it was holding that end from "falling" when I lifted the other end to raise pump. Wooden handle was not placed on harmonic balancer...
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 01:39 AM   #8
1988760
Board Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Default

Why can't I use the seals that will come with the new HEPU pump I am getting? Use them like recommended above. I would think they would be OK. Whoever makes the Volvo seals may not be a great improvement over the seals sent with the Hepu pump...I would think.
1988760 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 03:00 AM   #9
billkaz
Bomber Dream
 
billkaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Maple Ridge, BC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988760 View Post
Why can't I use the seals that will come with the new HEPU pump I am getting? Use them like recommended above. I would think they would be OK. Whoever makes the Volvo seals may not be a great improvement over the seals sent with the Hepu pump...I would think.
There is nothing stopping you from using the seals that come with the pump. However, the general consensus is that the seal between the pump and the head will eventually start to leak.

I saw that with my Gates water pump kit. The gasket between the block and the pump blew out rather suddenly, and all I had handy was another Gates kit (but was lucky to have the parts on hand). About a year or so later, the top seal was starting to drip.

I grabbed a set of Volvo seals and a Volvo gasket from the dealer and have those handy for next time.
__________________
1992 240 Wagon
2006 Mazda6 Wagon




billkaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 03:22 AM   #10
1988760
Board Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Default

My Wichita, Ks, dealer is rude and tells me my car is too old. He can order the grommet but wants 21 dollars for just the grommet, I am not paying that. I will try to get a different set from the foreign car place here in town for Saturday. They say they have OEM stuff. Maybe I will get lucky.
1988760 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 03:37 AM   #11
Otto Mattik
Board Member
 
Otto Mattik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: At work, or under a car
Default

thanks gents, I appreciate the insight..."may" be tricky with inferior part/s

Last edited by Otto Mattik; 02-20-2017 at 02:10 AM..
Otto Mattik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 09:18 AM   #12
ortho stice
Board Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Braddock, PA
Default

For what it's worth, I used the Gates seals on a water pump I did on a budget-oriented friend's 940 and gave the the upper ring seal a precautionary thin coat of RTV. I also made sure to lever the pump up against the head while tightening the bolts.

Nary a drop has dripped in the ensuing two years.
ortho stice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 10:41 AM   #13
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988760 View Post
My Wichita, Ks, dealer is rude and tells me my car is too old.
GM dealerships, for instance, may have to order a dozen or so of some items; consequently, they may not order the part you want.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 03:09 PM   #14
lummert
Board Member
 
lummert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portland IN
Default

Seems that a slice could be cut from a piece of 1 inch diameter solid (not braided) synthetic rubber hose for the square cut O-ring. Dish washer drain hose comes to mind.
lummert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 05:34 PM   #15
sbabbs
Board Member
 
sbabbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
Default

Yeah I used a generic O ring replacement pack from fred meyer one night about 11pm as that rubber o ring between the head and water pump blew out and freddies was the only place open. The o ring pack had about 10 different sized ones in the pack and two of the one size worked. Racked and stacked em.
__________________
1988 245 White slicktop M47 Wagon! 2.5L NA 8v going in.
1990 745 B230FT Getrag JohnV flywheel 240mm clutch 13c A-cam 3.54 G80 548K MILES
1991 740SE B230FT NPR Strut braces IPD bar A cam 550cc EV14's. 3.73 G80 M90 to put in.
sbabbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 10:29 PM   #16
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
rubber o ring between the head and water pump
Iirc, that's a suction line when engine is operating.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2017, 07:38 PM   #17
Kjets On a Plane
Devoid of Luxury
 
Kjets On a Plane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SoCal Rat-Racer/Douche/Rich Puke Playground, Formerly Pacific Wonderland
Default

^Entire cooling system is under some pressure relative to atmospheric normally though?
__________________
How PSI a stock can support?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
If you send me $20 I'll send you a how-to explaining how to make $20 from people on the internet.
Kjets On a Plane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2017, 10:08 PM   #18
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
^Entire cooling system is under some pressure relative to atmospheric normally though?
Pump it to Me!
The centrifugal water pump


Two basic requirements must be met in order to maintain fluid movement with any centrifugal pump. The first is the pump's ability to generate sufficient pressure to overcome static head pressure and system resistance at the discharge (outlet). This requirement is self-evident and does not present any hydraulic limitation because, given sufficient pump size and rotating speed, almost any level of flow can be reached. The second requirement applies to the suction side of the pump where generation of a pressure gradient between the impeller and prevailing suction pressure is needed to draw the liquid into the pump.
==============

Different topic, but on a rural water district, the incoming pressure is around 100 psi (static), and outgoing pump pressure around 150 psi. If incoming pipes are not large enough, incoming side will show about 0 psi. This incoming water is traveling in a linear direction, and does not exert any pipe wall-pressure. Iirc, by pumping rules, inlet pressure should not drop below 20 psi. With lower inlet pressure, water cavitation will happen, and it sounds like "rocks" banging together.

So, there will be a pressure drop at inlet side...how much on a vehicle's water pump...it would depend upon outlet flow volume and its resistance to flow. This could be measured via an inlet hose on engines equip with them.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2017, 06:46 PM   #19
Kjets On a Plane
Devoid of Luxury
 
Kjets On a Plane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SoCal Rat-Racer/Douche/Rich Puke Playground, Formerly Pacific Wonderland
Default

*shrug* running on a somewhat warm day (60+ F) at light load the lower radiator hose swells slightly even when revving the engine as it comes up to temp and the cooling system runs under the 75 or 150kpa cap.

Maybe if it were cold enough ambient on a cold engine at 6000rpm pressure in the lower radiator hose and/or inlet side of the pump would be lower than atmospheric, but it's unlikely it would be for long or at any other time.

Point is, more likely than not, fluid will be likely to escape under slight pressure relative to atmospheric in any/all parts of the cooling system most of the time/under most operating conditions rather than ambient air be drawn into the cooling system.

Apart from the lower radiator hose and heater return pipe, the block and cylinder head top o-ring are on the outlet/pressure side of the pump.
Kjets On a Plane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2017, 06:44 PM   #20
cmanns
Board Member
 
cmanns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Default

Also Felpro should have two gaskets

One is so thin it'll blow out near instantly, one is thick.
cmanns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2017, 09:47 PM   #21
freevolvos
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: hillpoint
Default

Ii used a GMB pump on my Volvo is been on there for about six years now and it's fine. The pump was 11 bucks off eBay
freevolvos is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2017, 10:57 PM   #22
planetman
Board Member
 
planetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Torrance, CA
Default

Due to a request from another turbobricker, I now have in stock the 2 rubber water pump seals from Volvo and water pump gaskets from Victor Reinz.

IIRC, the seal/gasket package costs less than $15.00 plus shipping.
__________________
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
planetman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2017, 12:22 AM   #23
84B23F
Board Member
 
84B23F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas, USA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
Point is...
Find an engine with a 5/8" or 3/4" inlet hose, and evaluate.

>lower radiator hose swells slightly

Thermal expansion and a pinch of pressure can do this

I don't know engine pump physics, but I am aware of drinking-water pump physics. The inlet pressure gauge was removed with pump running, and no water came out....that's bad news.
84B23F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2017, 09:35 AM   #24
cleanflametrap
Board Member
 
cleanflametrap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: near baltimore
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
...I don't know engine pump physics, but I am aware of drinking-water pump physics. The inlet pressure gauge was removed with pump running, and no water came out....that's bad news.
What?
__________________
-Art
cleanflametrap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2017, 09:47 AM   #25
cleanflametrap
Board Member
 
cleanflametrap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: near baltimore
Default

I've been watching this observation about the quality of non-Volvo rubber parts for a few years now. Generally, I allow an overwhelming consensus to influence my parts procurement habits, but so far have not enjoyed the use of one single* Genuine Volvo donut seal.

No, I don't have pristine head to water pump connections. They weep, and it seems they weep in the Winter. And it seems I only catch this weep bringing a cold car into the garage.

Sometimes it gets bad and I have to replace the seal, but so seldom as to say it may have been on a pump I hadn't replaced, where the head surface was corroded.

Anyhow, after these years of seeing the dribble from the donut, I don't let it worry me unless there's a need to top up the reservoir. I'm talking about a dribble that doesn't even make it to the floor -- just a drop or two in the belly pan, and it always quits once the motor warms up.

TLDR? Hear the old technician's refrain, "they all do that."

Edit: Correction. I do remember getting a pump from Volvo almost 20 years ago, so I'm sure it came with a Volvo seal.

Last edited by cleanflametrap; 02-20-2017 at 09:53 AM.. Reason: Correct a lie.
cleanflametrap is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:03 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.