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Old 04-30-2017, 05:18 PM   #1
larsjorgen
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Default Any point in tuning b230f n/a?

Been planning for a long time what I'm gonna do to my b230e, and ended up wanting to do a n/a tuning which would have taken it to ~200 hp.

But then it turns out, I don't have a b230e, I have a b230f. I even have a list with the parts I was going to order, but now I'm not sure what to do.

Is the f useful for anything all all except for being replaced with another engine?
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Old 04-30-2017, 05:49 PM   #2
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As it is basically the same engine your plans need not change much if at all.

What was the build spec going to be?
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:24 PM   #3
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What's the difference then? Where did the extra ~20 hp go between the two engines?

Well.. Extractor, 531, porting, bigger valves, cam, exhaust.. And I'll probably do something to the injection. Not sure what all of these things are called in English though, but you probably get the point.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:53 PM   #4
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http://forums.turbobricks.com/archiv...p/t-20080.html

Difference is in the pistons.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:57 PM   #5
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OP's sig quote is the greatest thing I've read all day.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:00 PM   #6
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You should turbocharge it....
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Old 05-01-2017, 02:22 PM   #7
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Don't the E engines all have a different cam? I know the B23E had a K cam, had one of those in my brother's '79 242 for a while, it was almost as much fun as a turbo.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:48 AM   #8
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The E could have the A, V or K cam (H only in B23) The F has the M or W cam

The lower power of the B230F is down to cam and cat and a little from the intake manifold
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:29 AM   #9
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Shave the head like 1.5mm, clean up the ports, H-cam, extractors, e-fan and lose the cat. You should be able to get like 150 flywheel horsepower at least. The VOC guys are pushing up to 170-180hp out of B230F's on standard cast manifolds, H-cam, no headwork and stock compression...

Just changing the super lame M-cam for a V, H or even A will make a noticable difference. It drives more like a car, and less like a tractor.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:14 AM   #10
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Dual Webers.
Huge airbox!!!!!
Large inlet tract bringing in fresh air from the front of the car.
High(er) compression.
Nice cam.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:48 AM   #11
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Webers on a f engine?
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:48 AM   #12
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The VOC guys are pushing up to 170-180hp out of B230F's on standard cast manifolds, H-cam, no headwork and stock compression...
how´s that possible?
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:44 PM   #13
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Bah, maybe I'm better off just replacing my f with a fk or something. I live in Norway so I can just drive to Sweden and get decent one for about $5-600. And then I can do some simple tuning on that one and be pretty dang close to 200 hp..
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:55 PM   #14
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I've heard good things about the Folkrace regrind cams and header (actually having used and driven cars with both).

There is a lot to be said about NA power and and engine bay without all the extra stuff associated with turbo. A stock FK with the boost turned up is nice but I don't like the feeling of less and less torque the closer you get to redline.

I agree on shaved head, reground cam, extractor/header.
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:05 PM   #15
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Shaved head, cam, header on fk?
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:16 PM   #16
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I meant on F/E engine.

For anything with a power goal under 300-ish turbo hp i would stick with stock exhaust mainfold. The FK is severely limited by the stock turbo.
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by larsjorgen View Post
Webers on a f engine?
I don't really care about the engine. That's just a recipe. How you get to there from where you are is up to you.
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Old 05-02-2017, 03:15 PM   #18
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Side conversation: I've heard the term "regrind" over the years. But how does grinding a "small" cam give you a "big" (more lift / duration) cam? I know it works, I just can't see how.
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Old 05-02-2017, 03:33 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by LC4CARL View Post
Side conversation: I've heard the term "regrind" over the years. But how does grinding a "small" cam give you a "big" (more lift / duration) cam? I know it works, I just can't see how.
Regrind the base circle to a smaller diameter without touching the cam love, put in appropriately dimensioned valve buckets and/or shims, etc. to accommodate the change, end up with greater valve lift.
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Old 05-02-2017, 03:38 PM   #20
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I did a basic NA build on my auto x car. B230f, shaved .065" off the head, .028 head gasket, ported head and manifolds, CVI header, 2.5" exhaust, RSI na cam, running on lh 2.2. haven't dyno'd it, but I can tell you it is an absolute blast to drive
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:12 PM   #21
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Sounds interesting, Mr. Blewregaurd. What did it all cost? Did you order the head from Sweden? Any guesstimation as to how much power you have?
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12david34 View Post
how´s that possible?

Its not...close to 150-155 real world HP..And they spend money getting there...

BUT they are STRICTLY boxed in by their rules..

"We" are not..
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Old 05-02-2017, 06:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4CARL View Post
Side conversation: I've heard the term "regrind" over the years. But how does grinding a "small" cam give you a "big" (more lift / duration) cam? I know it works, I just can't see how.
Easy


But there are limits..Start with something that looks like a tear-drop its pretty hard to make it look like


That's why some people contract some people like me to make them new full circle cam cores.
Then with a full circle you can put any profile you want on it while maintaining the correct base circle and OEM geometry...

Like these I made for Knox motorsport


in both 8v and 16v Volvo
Or the 8 I have to mail to Sweden for some maniacs there for a rally Saab project..

Then you can have some FUN...
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Old 05-02-2017, 08:46 PM   #24
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Well you learn something everyday. That's cool.

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Old 05-03-2017, 02:08 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12david34 View Post
how´s that possible?
I don't think the production tolerances on redblocks were very good. As most of us have probably experienced, some 240's probably have 120hp while others have more like 100. What they can do is completely blueprint and balance stuff. I think you're allowed to modify 3 out of 4 rods and pistons so what you do is start out with a huge pile of B230F rods and pistons, find the very lightest one of each then grind on the other 3 until they match. Then a lot is down to tuning the LH2.4.

They might be 150-160hp. I've heard 180 tossed around as some kind of 'max' and find it a bit hard to believe. But still, at or at least close to B230FT power without a turbo, high compression or headwork is pretty cool IMO. And no, it's not cheap just because it's mostly OE parts.
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