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Old 03-31-2018, 11:21 AM   #1176
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You should just build the hotside, kinda seems like alot of steps in the wrong direction to use a eBay manifold kit.
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:02 PM   #1177
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I trust my welding skills enough to make a downpipe, but not enough to make a hotside that has to support the weight of the turbo.

For April Fool's Day/Easter it rained and spit sleet in the afternoon, I didn't get much done. I'm too unmotivated to work in lousy weather. Plus the ceiling in my garage is too low for the engine hoist - I just push it halfway outside when plucking engines.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:23 PM   #1178
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You'd be surprised what you can get away with if you brace it
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:21 PM   #1179
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Finally spent some time on this again. I've been spending all the nice days riding my bike since they've been in short supply so far this spring.

Test fitting the engine back in with a different set of manifolds and some H3 motor mount brackets that position the car 1.25 inches further forward.

Result is prettay, prettay, prettay good.




The manifolds are on, the crossover pipe is on, the little cast dual scroll T4 connector is on, and the turbo is on. And there are practically no fitment issues at all. Two very minor touches - one is the left side of the crossover pipe - lightly touching the sway bar. I can space the sway bar down, or maybe just make a love tap or two on the crossover pipe. Maybe a little of both. And the turbo is very lightly touching on that small bit of subframing that runs up to the shock tower. A very modest amount of BFH work and that will be cleared up. w00t!!!

I spent a little more time checking out the manifold/strut brace clearance, no issues at all with the LS6 manifold. And I tried the downpipe on to see how close it was - it looked perfectly fine. At least the first section.


Ran out of sunlight and motivation to mess around with checking the bellhousing clearance with everything moved forward a little, but just eyeballing it from above looked very promising.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:42 AM   #1180
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So did you slide the motor as far forward as possible? That would be super cool if that's all it took for less Fab oriented people on the forum
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Old 04-18-2018, 03:18 AM   #1181
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I love that you post 4 megabyte photos four and half thousand pixels wide and no one says a damn thing Mean while I post 2k pixel wide photos 250kB and some dude complained. I should PM him a link to this thread

Hopefully when the jolly good chap who runs the site upgrades it, it'll auto scale like my FOSS forum does. Then it'd just be a bandwidth issue, which is rapidly becoming a non-issue.

On with the V8 turbo madness
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:48 AM   #1182
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I love that you post 4 megabyte photos four and half thousand pixels wide and no one says a damn thing Mean while I post 2k pixel wide photos 250kB and some dude complained. I should PM him a link to this thread

Hopefully when the jolly good chap who runs the site upgrades it, it'll auto scale like my FOSS forum does. Then it'd just be a bandwidth issue, which is rapidly becoming a non-issue.

On with the V8 turbo madness
You sure do complain a lot.

This thread loads fine on my phone.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:20 AM   #1183
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So all you did was slide the motor an inch and a half forward and the 240sx manifold kit you bought all bolts up? That's hilarious and awesome.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:04 AM   #1184
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Fox body Mustang kit. The 240 SX kit sets the turbo back a little more. A little higher as well, but a worse fit with the 240's strut tower.

I probably didn't need to mess with the steering column with the engine forward as well.

I might need one of those tiny starters as well.

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Old 04-18-2018, 06:37 PM   #1185
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Hoisted it up in the air to crawl under and see how the bellhousing fit is going. Which is good. It's close in a few spots but it's on without touching anywhere. Might need a tiny bit of bashing here and there for wiggle room.





Did a very rough measurement on where the shifter needs to be. 23.5 inches back from the LS bellhousing. Placed a yardstick about an inch forward to account for the adapter plate, and we're at about here:


Sort of an awkward spot, I guess. There are various lengths of cages, and one kit that replaces that 'lid' on top of the trans, but this is right around the end of the trans. Maybe the shortest possible cage?

For fun, I stuck the truck manifold on. It's tall. Very tall. Certainly wouldn't be able to use the strut brace with that thing on there:


I guess I can see how the hood could close with absolutely minimal clearance if some of the junk on the top of it were removed.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:24 PM   #1186
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I took all that junky off my truck manifold then made a custom a sheet metal cover to cover the harness. Fits just fine
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:27 PM   #1187
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I want to use my strut brace still, so:
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:29 PM   #1188
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I like it. I'll probably be copying this for the 242
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:15 PM   #1189
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Now that the bellhousing is fitting. I can go ahead and cut off the Nissan bellhousing. No need to keep it on to leave the option of the other swap kit open.

Angle grinder conquers all. It really didn't take very long. Didn't even wear the one cutting wheel down much.


And a little messing around with bolts and sealer and wrenches and now it's all LS'ed up:


Also bolted the starter up, and tried on the lower half of the downpipe, just for grins. I really didn't expect it to fit, but it actually did. Threaded the needle between the starter, the subframe, the front suspension, and the bellhousing, and then straight back along the frame rail like it belonged there. Tucked up nice and snug, not dangling down. If only they didn't put the flex section in the part of the pipe that goes down - that fatter piece was right in the tightest spot. It still fit, but *just* barely. I might chop that out and move it down to the horizontal pipe.

I really wasn't expecting that to fit as well as it did.
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Old 04-20-2018, 10:23 AM   #1190
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Nice progress John! Think it'll be ready for Cars and Coffee at Westport tomorrow? :p
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Old 04-20-2018, 10:27 AM   #1191
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Maybe this time next year?

Heh. We're going out in the woods all weekend again, which is why my projects take so long.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:40 AM   #1192
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Great stuff / this thing is going to be a serious white-knuckler!
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:17 PM   #1193
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Hoisted the transmission sort of into place this evening, seeing how it fits.


It was *almost* bolted to the engine, just angled down a little bit at the back was all that was preventing it from going ahead and seating. It was hitting the tunnel in two places. One around the large bulging section of the transmission where the rear part of the case bolts together. And then there were some knobs that poke out around the shifter that were also touching.

Driver's side:


Passenger side:


Seems like it could come up another 3 inches or so, there's about 3 1/2 inches down from the shifter hole to the top of the trans. As estimated above, the trans is ending up in a somewhat awkward in-between position. Too far back for the shifters that hand right on the end of the trans, too far forward for the ones that replace that shifter fork cover plate. I'm guessing I might end up with that last kind, and trim the shifter home forward some, possibly use a setback section on the shifter lever.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:26 PM   #1194
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I BFH'ed it for a while last night. Which isn't very easy in the narrow tunnel. I didn't try the trans again, though.

One of those pneumatic body shaping hammer things would have been SWEET to have, I tells ya. For that matter, I'm probably not done hammering.

After eyeballing the shifter location, I'm thinking about this shifter relocation kit: http://cbfperformance.net/#!/Gen-3-B...258/category=0



It gets rid of the shift fork hanging out of the tail end of the trans and replaces the top cover. It's a little too far forward for the stock 240 shifter hole, but that's far easier to deal with than being too far back (since the tall part of the tunnel ends just past the shifter hole).
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:31 PM   #1195
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I BFH'ed it for a while last night. Which isn't very easy in the narrow tunnel. I didn't try the trans again, though.

One of those pneumatic body shaping hammer things would have been SWEET to have, I tells ya. For that matter, I'm probably not done hammering.

After eyeballing the shifter location, I'm thinking about this shifter relocation kit: http://cbfperformance.net/#!/Gen-3-B...258/category=0


It gets rid of the shift fork hanging out of the tail end of the trans and replaces the top cover. It's a little too far forward for the stock 240 shifter hole, but that's far easier to deal with than being too far back (since the tall part of the tunnel ends just past the shifter hole).
If you're not in too much of a hurry Deeworks should come up with a shifter relocation in the near future. There is also Collins selling 2 or 3 different kits. The nicest one is the Serial Nine but at $450 USD + shipping it ain't given to say the least!

https://www.serialnine.com/cd999-shifter


EDIT: I clicked on your link and saw that this CBF kit is $500!
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:03 PM   #1196
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That SerialNine shifter hangs off the end of the trans. It will be too far back for a 240. That CBF shifter is the only one I've seen that goes on top of the trans, replacing the cover over the shifter forks.

I tried the trans in the tunnel again tonight. And got it all the way bolted up to the engine, and even jacked all the way up - as far as it will need to go (and perhaps a little further). But it was still touching in a few spots.

So I marked it up a bit with a sharpie, took the trans back out, and then BFH'ed it for a while longer. Which is still a royal PITA and very hard on your forearms.

Haven't tried the trans in again though. I might work on the fat section of the transmission *CAREFULLY* with an angle grinder and take off some of the more random and non-functional parts that are causing some of the issues. I'm pretty sure it will fit, now the main issue is just giving it enough room to wiggle around some without BRRRRZZZZing against the tunnel.

Last edited by JohnMc; 04-26-2018 at 09:14 AM.. Reason: edited for clarity
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Old 04-25-2018, 11:38 PM   #1197
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mini sledge with 2 hands is what I used. not saying it's easy, cause it wasn't
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:33 PM   #1198
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Checked out the trans fit after the extra innings of BFH-ing. Plus I took an angle grinder and CAREFULLY took off a few of the more problematic and non-functional protrusions. And it's all fitting just peach now.

Doesn't look like a whole lot, but it's got wiggle room. Passenger side:


Driver side:


With that knocked into shape - turned my attention to the crossmember. Tried the T5 mount and Yoshifab crossmember just for grins... and damned if it doesn't look like it will work with a slight tweak. The T5 mount is off center for whatever Fordy reason, but it's off about exactly as much as it is wider than the mounting point on the CD009. It lines up with the bolt hole on one side, the other side is about 1.5(ish) inches over. And it needs about 1/4 inche of extra height. I'm thinking about just taking a solid chunk of metal and bolting it and the mount through one hole, the chunk to the trans with another, and the mount to the chunk. Super cheesy and easy. Here it is sitting on the crossmember bolted on the one hole that matches up:


The not perfect part? The CD009 trans just hangs a bit lower under the output shaft than the M47 or T5 ever did. With the trans lowerered to where it looks like the drive shaft would have proper clearance, it's sort of hanging down under the frame rails a little. Nothing terrible, but certainly not tucked waaaay up. Please ignore my filthy oily garage floor and nasty old blankets I was laying on.


Not bad, but it is the lowest point of the drivetrain. This adds some weight to my idea of having a 2-pc driveshaft custom built for this. Without a need for clearance for the rear end of the driveshaft going up and down, I could tuck it up as tight as possible. Certainly, don't want to be dragging that trans case over speed bumps.
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:52 PM   #1199
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If I'm reading that correctly; I'd just slot one of the mounting holes in whichever direction it needs to clear, source some steel spacers for the bolts, and send it. Minimum effort, maximum enjoyment.

Fake ninja: Kinda does seem like I'm off a bit. Your original proposal probably won't end up too far from the finished idea either way.

Liking the piccies.
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:01 PM   #1200
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The mount drops down in the middle, not really shown in the pics. So I wouldn't even need to countersink that 'hidden' bolt. Can't slot it because it's shorter enough that it would be into the poly.

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