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Old 09-12-2017, 12:05 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Okay so without the resistor I risk blowing up the coil if I'm in KP2 WITHOUT the engine running?
Yes, but it takes a while. 15-30minutes? Not sure exactly, I was asleep.
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:04 PM   #52
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When i was faced with this same task i decided it was easier to convert to megasquirt
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:37 PM   #53
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When i was faced with this same task i decided it was easier to convert to megasquirt
I wish that was in my ¢17/hr budget

Believe me, I'd love to sit down and learn all the ins and outs of megasquirt. Maybe someday, I should probably learn stock management before I jump into something like that.
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:02 PM   #54
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I have yet to find a good write up on the 'simple' breakerless conversion. Lots of ezk talk everywhere but I'm really determined to make this breakerless setup work.
Quit overthinking this. The distributor installs in the block like any other distributor, the ignition amplifier connects to the distributor and the coil, and you'll need to run a wire from the coil negative to a connector in the 2.2 harness to provide the ECU with the RPM signal it normally gets from the Chrysler box. The only thing that isn't plug and play is the RPM wire, but it just needs a female spade on the coil end and a male spade on the other.
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:12 PM   #55
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I bypass the ballast resistor to get a hotter spark on b21ft cars. You just can't leave the key on with out the car running.
If you bypass the ballast resistor your points will burn up! Oh, wait... Why is there a ballast resistor on a breakerless system?
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Old 09-21-2017, 08:42 PM   #56
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Quick question

I have all the turbo related hardware swapped onto the car and was waiting to swap ignition/fuel components as to make sure everything is good before that.

So still stock lh2.2 na ecu, and Chrysler.

At this point the car will not idle with the maf plugged in but I don't want to write it off as a bad maf. We're getting 12v at pin 5 on the maf in KP2, as well as 4.0 ohms of resistance between pins 2 and 3. So all of that is within spec.

It's worth noting that I literally took out the IAC which would obviously cause issues idling; however it will surge up and down even with constant throttle. That's why I believe it's not the lack of an IAC at fault here.

It will start up and run glass smooth for about .5-1 second and then die out. Unplug the maf and it'll continually idle just fine.

Any ideas to try before crushit?

Checked pretty thoroughly for vacuum leaks and there are none.
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Old 09-21-2017, 08:59 PM   #57
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Also I already measured resistance between each maf wire extension and was getting close to 0, so there is continuity all throughout.

How dependant upon an immediate o2 sensor signal is 2.2? Downpipe is not yet installed with the o2 sensor.

Just put in a spare lh2.2 016 maf and the car starts and idles like normal I'm not sure if that directly signifies a bad maf though. May have to get a 2.2 maf sent here.
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:53 PM   #58
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Alright I got the motor warm and it idled with the 2.2 maf but wants to die at annnny sort of throttle input
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:58 PM   #59
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TPS adjusted properly?
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:04 PM   #60
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TPS adjusted properly?
It was before the turbo conversion. It clicks when I give it a slight amount of throttle. No difference with it unplugged either. I find it weird that it idled and drives with the 2.4 maf but not the 2.2 maf. 2.4 still isn't perfect though.
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Old 09-22-2017, 02:23 AM   #61
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Sounds like an air/boost leak to me. Double check all the connections
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:21 AM   #62
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Sounds like an air/boost leak to me. Double check all the connections
I did, there are none.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:49 PM   #63
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Here's a video of how it responds to throttle with the 2.2 maf plugged in.


I was able to drive it with the 2.4 maf today; it didn't run too well but was at least driveable.
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Old 09-29-2017, 03:43 PM   #64
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I just moved the maf back to the stock location and re installed the iac valve in order to rule out that as the reason it wouldn't idle/rev.

So with the iac and maf installed just like they were from the factory, the car will barley idle and almost immediately die at the first sign of throttle. If I hold 100% throttle, the car sputters and backfires out the maf. Why?

Does this pretty much guarantee a bad maf?
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:30 AM   #65
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timing off.
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Old 10-02-2017, 01:59 AM   #66
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timing off.
Doubtful. It runs 'good' with the lh2.4 maf, but almost not at all with the 2.2 maf.

I have not touched the timing since it's been boosted.

That being said, I guess it can't hurt to check.
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Old 10-03-2017, 01:28 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Harry Tuttle View Post
If you bypass the ballast resistor your points will burn up! Oh, wait... Why is there a ballast resistor on a breakerless system?
I think you are thinking of the condenser on a points system. The
condenser (an old fashioned word for capacitor) absorbs the
flyback energy from the coil which prevents arcing across the
points (the arcing burns the contacts).

The ballast resistor limits current through the coil. Breakerless
has no dwell control, so if the distributor happens to stop with
a finger under the sensor, the coil will remain energized, which
leads to an overheated and ultimately failed coil or power stage.
A breakerless power stage (a big transistor, essentially), will
get quite hot if you overdwell it. Either the coil or the
ignition amplifier will fail in this situation.

The same will happen to the coil on a points system, if the
distributor stops with the points closed, your coil overheats
without the resistor.

The ballast resistor does reduce the spark energy.

When cranking, the ballast resistor is bypassed, to allow for the
hottest spark when trying to start the engine.

Breakerless is a nice upgrade from points, but spinning weights
and vacuum cans can't touch computer spark timing control.

Converting to computer mapped ignition timing was probably the
single greatest improvement I've made to my engine.

Find a wiring diagram and reproduce it. Breakerless is pretty
simple. Sometimes the ballast resistor is located near the
battery rather than the passenger strut tower.
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Old 10-08-2017, 12:07 AM   #68
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I installed a used 2.2 maf and the car idles very very (when warm) and revs easily. It seems that somehow our original maf had failed. Still stock ignition right now, and we just installed a good used 13g to replace our blown 15g. Gotta fab up a wastegate bracket and see how it reacts to boost.
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