home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Symposium > article composition

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-04-2011, 04:08 AM   #1
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default LH2.4 Install/Conversion. Just a few wires to make it run

Do you want to know how to install Bosch LH2.4 EFI in your Volvo? Fantastic! It's very simple and only takes a few wires. We installed a 1994 B230FT and LH2.4 into a 1984 240 Turbo and this is how we did it.
Need:
-LH2.4 240 wiring harness.
-B230FT Engine OR drill/tap block for RPM sensor if attempting on a B21/23. If you don't drill/tap PERFECTLY the airgap will be wrong and it won't run at all/well.
-LH2.4 Fuel Computer and Ignition Computer
-LH2.4 Flywheel or Flexplate and RPM sensor
-Complete rear axle or differential from electronic speedo 240
-Electronic speedo cluster
-LH2.4 Idle air motor
-LH2.4 MAF
-LH2.4 Coolant temp sensor
-Greentop injectors and resistor pack OR high resistance injectors like 850 Turbo orangetops
-2 small Custom fuel lines if converting from Kjet OR fuel lines from an EFI car

Process:

-First remove old engine bay harness

-Install B230FT and transmission of choice

-Install electronic speedo rear axle with gear ratio of choice.

-Install LH2.4 engine harness, run it thru firewall, and hook up computers.


-There is a wiring pigtail that goes from the computers and across the dashboard. Updated Nov 2015. Colors may vary slightly by harness year. Make sure you do your homework! But here are the basic few wires to make the thing run. Again, this is using a 1989/1990 wiring harness. Dash pigtail is different on the later models. SLIGHTLY. Don't be a bonehead. Get out a multimeter and wiring diagram and figure out the differences.


Wire 1: Thicker (12ga?) Red/Yellow- Power OUT TO Fuel Pumps.
(Wire 2:) Thinner (16ga?) Red/Yellow: Power FROM fuse to Heated 02. (Vehicle will start without this wire connected)
Wire 3: Blue: Ignition ON signal.
Wire 4: Blue/Black: Signal fom back Speedo (optional. You will get high idle after freeway runs without it. No big deal.)
Wire 5: Power up ignition coil with switched 12v. ( i suggest adding it to 2 wire plug. One wire is yel/red. Other is blue. By adding 12v to this wire, you are powering up the coil and the powerstage)
(Wire 6) entire LH System/Fuel Pumps gets power from a RED fused wire from the battery. At least on 1989-1990. Later model wiring harness is different. Sort thru other guy's posts or look at wiring diagrams to figure it out.

- Relocate the MAF wiring to the other side. This was easy. We pulled all of the wires, except the brown/black ground wire, out of the harness carefully and moved them to the other side. For the ground wire (that black/brown) you cant pull it out because it grounds other things. You need to pull it out as much as you can and then attach it back to your MAF plug.

-Plug in 4 wire connector in your new 2.4 harness into the old firewall connector. Its grey.

-There are a few other wires that need to be hooked up for AC, ABS function, and Check Engine Light but the above wires are all it needs to RUN! Pink one is for Check Engine light BTW.

-For fuel lines you can either get a complete set of EFI fuel lines from a donor car, or you can have a custom feed line and return line made. We went to Parker hose fittings and got hooked up with both for about $20!

-SPEEDO. Considered optional. If you do NOT run a speedo signal, you may have moments of high idle. For the speedo signal you just need to install a electronic speedo rear axle, or attempt to install just the diff and diff cover in your existing housing. You will also need to install a electronic speedo cluster. There are two wires coming off the differential. You run the black wire to the same ground point with the black wire coming of the speedo. The blue wire from the diff cover goes directly to the instrument cluster. Then you need to hook up the red/black wire from the ignition switch to the back of the cluster. This will power the whole cluster up. Use the old wire that powered up your instrument cluster.
__________________
No Start Thread

Last edited by ZVOLV; 11-17-2015 at 11:06 AM..
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2011, 12:26 AM   #2
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default





Last edited by ZVOLV; 11-17-2015 at 10:58 AM..
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2011, 01:58 PM   #3
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default






There is a medium sized grey plug (8 pin?) that connects at the center of the firewall. This plug at the firewall is compatible with the LH2.4 harness. Just plug it in! This gets you alternator excitor wire, starter signal wire, temp guage signal, and oil WARNING light. This also used to have your wires for the oil pressure guage. You need to hook those back up to your chassis plug here if you are trying to retain the 240T pressure guage.

This solid blue wire (cant really see in this pic) got a jumper wire (our yellow) attached to it and we ran it to the coil positive. This blue wire is the power for the coil from your old 240 kjet chassis harness. It should be sitting right there where you removed the old 240 ignition box from. You simply put a male spade on your jumper wire and plug it into the female plug on the blue wire. Then you simply add a male plug to your jumper wire and plug it onto the coil. Now your coil should get 12v when you turn the ignition on.




Last edited by ZVOLV; 08-02-2015 at 11:39 AM..
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2011, 04:49 PM   #4
sekokupu
Board Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Finland
Default

And if you use 240 N/A harness, you have to cut/disable TPM full throttle wire.
__________________

sekokupu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2011, 12:32 PM   #5
dalek
Benchracer Tribe
 
dalek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Orange Alert, NC
Default

Would that work in a vagina car?
__________________
"you can't leave your thingy hanging in public... you can get arrested."
"What's Arkansas supposed to be, Kansas for pirates?" Forg
"I think I can touch the tire. Damn! I can touch the tire! That hurts!" 240Psycho (on the back seat of my 94 Jetta while I was driving to a J/Y)
"Use the barbed adapter like what I use to inflate the air camping mattresses and my dates." FTF Engineering
i am inspired. i will replace my windsheild... with an intercooler.swedishK
Feedback!
dalek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2011, 12:56 PM   #6
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sekokupu View Post
And if you use 240 N/A harness, you have to cut/disable TPM full throttle wire.
what's it do if you don't?
__________________
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2011, 12:03 AM   #7
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE View Post
what's it do if you don't?
Sbabbs claims certain ECU's will go to full rich.
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2011, 03:01 PM   #8
Lord_Athlon
Sf1k Kryptonite
 
Lord_Athlon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: If there were a bright center of the universe, im in the town that is furthest from
Default

Kris' went full rich with 52lb
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I used paper books to learn how to do this stuff back in the day. Now I use pro software subscription
Quote:
Originally Posted by rvolvor
3/4", make everything as heavy as possible for no reason. It's also 4:1 compression ratio because that's how cosworth did it in 1978.
Lord_Athlon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 07:29 PM   #9
D.E
tvåförti
 
D.E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mora, Sweden
Default

Thank you for this guide. I do have a few questions.

Where do I get fuel pump power from if I didn't have an electrical fuel pump to begin with?

What do I do with the electrical speedo, seeing as how I have the early cluster in my car? Will the car not run at all without the electrical speedo signal? I have all the wiring from the rear axle (an electrical speedo 1031) to the computers but no way to run the speedometer itself. Maybe I could integrate it into the early cluster, replacing the original speedo?

What colour is the TPS wire that is to be cut?

Thanks again.
__________________
'88 Volvo 245 - B230F, LH2.4, A-cam, 4-2-1 header, de-cat, M47
'83 Volvo 244 - B23A, M46, 48k miles
'64 Ford 17M, '59 Plymouth Custom Suburban, '76 Ford Granada 2.8
D.E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 02:58 AM   #10
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default

TPS wire was blue/white.

Last edited by ZVOLV; 06-03-2011 at 03:09 AM..
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 01:21 PM   #11
D.E
tvåförti
 
D.E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mora, Sweden
Default

Thanks. Are there any pictures available of the LH 2,4 harness with all the connectors labeled? I forgot where some of them went and I was too stupid to label the harness as I took it out. My Haynes is of no assistance.
D.E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 03:19 PM   #12
OttoB
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: E(Seattle!Vancouver! San Francisco!LA!) Helsinski
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE View Post
what's it do if you don't?
It will run very rich in some cases. ECU has hidden WOT map that activates.

And that was metioned above

Last edited by OttoB; 05-17-2011 at 03:21 PM.. Reason: oops; old and slow
OttoB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 03:26 PM   #13
OttoB
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: E(Seattle!Vancouver! San Francisco!LA!) Helsinski
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by D.E View Post
Thanks. Are there any pictures available of the LH 2,4 harness with all the connectors labeled? I forgot where some of them went and I was too stupid to label the harness as I took it out. My Haynes is of no assistance.

Those connector are color coded, and only place where you can do wrong is inder intake; temp sensor, idle motor and knock sensor. I can check my notes
OttoB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 03:31 PM   #14
D.E
tvåförti
 
D.E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mora, Sweden
Default

I think I figured it all out, it really made sense seeing as how it was colour coded (except the white connector which fit on a black sensor under the intake mani) and routed in branches. I could however not identify a few odd connectors that stick out toward the drivers side headlight. They aren't the standard clip-on connectors.
D.E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 07:49 PM   #15
jamesinc
WD-40 Enthusiast
 
jamesinc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by D.E View Post
I think I figured it all out, it really made sense seeing as how it was colour coded (except the white connector which fit on a black sensor under the intake mani) and routed in branches. I could however not identify a few odd connectors that stick out toward the drivers side headlight. They aren't the standard clip-on connectors.
They're not connectors for test equipment are they? Like for tuning your MAF sensor and all that.
__________________
1985 240GL, 1989 740 Turbo wagon, 1992 240, 1977 244DL, 1980 244GL, 1996 850R wagon, 1985 360GLT

Founder of the Australian Volvo fourms, http://ozvolvo.org
jamesinc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2011, 03:11 AM   #16
OttoB
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: E(Seattle!Vancouver! San Francisco!LA!) Helsinski
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by D.E View Post
I could however not identify a few odd connectors that stick out toward the drivers side headlight. They aren't the standard clip-on connectors.
On option is EGR-valve, and there is something about coil and tachsignal. What colors do you have?
OttoB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2011, 11:48 AM   #17
D.E
tvåförti
 
D.E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mora, Sweden
Default

These are the wires I was wondering about. The blue one, the red one and the one I'm holding. They're part of the same branch.

D.E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2011, 12:22 PM   #18
kampman
dunning-krugersquirt
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Columbus, O.
Default

The blue and red/white wires are for the ignition coil. I'm not sure what that connector is, though-what sort of car did the harness come from?
__________________
1966 220 wagon, Ecotec swap project
1998 V70XC: 249K
1999 S70 manual: #base, 191K
2006 V50 T5 AWD 6MT: 121K
Feedback Thread
kampman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2011, 01:45 PM   #19
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default

That grey plug is tach signal to cluster and the power for the coil.


BLUE needs 12v switched (12v ONLY with key ON) and then the RED/WHITE goes to your tach.

Connect that blue wire to whichever wire powers your coil.

If you want to run a tach, you run that red/white wire to the back of the cluster and plug it in!

NOTE: When pulling a harness from a donor car, don't be a noob and cut the wires right at the plug! Cut AT LEAST 6 inches after the plug so you have the connectors and a pigtail lead.

Last edited by ZVOLV; 06-03-2011 at 03:11 AM..
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2011, 03:30 PM   #20
D.E
tvåförti
 
D.E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mora, Sweden
Default

Thanks. I don't need the tach signal wire since I have the early cluster and already have a separate wire ran for the tach. Can I connect the blue to the + on the coil? I think that's how it was setup to begin with. The car the harness came from is a euro spec 1991 245 with B230F, no options other than power steering and central locking which I think was standard in 1991.
D.E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2011, 04:00 PM   #21
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by D.E View Post
Can I connect the blue to the + on the coil?
You need to add POWER TO THE COIL by adding 12v SWITCHED to that blue wire at the grey plug. On our 1984 240 Turbo we simply found a blue wire there already with a black male connector and then we jumped it to the coil.

Every model Volvo should already have an ignition coil with a (blue) wire to power it up. Find that bitch and POWER UP your coil!

Last edited by ZVOLV; 06-03-2011 at 03:08 AM..
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2011, 12:41 PM   #22
ryanfay
more bounce to the ounce
 
ryanfay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Fransqueezy
Default

Sorry about the misinformation. I was wrong. lh2.4 does use the black ect sensor.
Moderators feel free to delete my post to protect the truth.
I only wonder why the motor I pulled out of a '90 740t had a green ect. It did have a "k" stamped on it after all.
ryanfay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 12:40 AM   #23
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Sbabbs claims certain ECU's will go to full rich.
make's sense. it did that with the "other" chip. a little mapping and it didn't care anymore.
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2011, 02:48 PM   #24
beepee
how hard can it be?
 
beepee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southern MD
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE View Post
make's sense. it did that with the "other" chip. a little mapping and it didn't care anymore.
Every factory TURBO bin I have seen has the WOT map blanked out (all zeros). There is also an "enable WOT switch" flag that is usually disabled.

I have tested neither on a turbo bin, but I would expect that NA cars (with a WOT switch) would have data in the table and the flag enabled. Paging Sbabbs or anyone who's ostrich'd a NA car to thread?

In theory, if you are a pro tuner, could use your WOT switch with your Turbo ECU. Or wire a switch to something else (like nawssssssssss doooood )
beepee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2011, 11:07 PM   #25
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: HTX
Default

water.. methanol injecton..
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:04 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.