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Old 05-15-2014, 11:26 AM   #1
calvintibia001
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Default NA+T Problems AGAIN ! Oil Return without dropping the sump ? Flame Trap ?

I have used the search function already, but either my asian eyes are too small or I am search the wrong thing

So, I was wonder is it possible to use a Christmas drill bit and drill into the sump, tap the hole and put a brass fitting with tapered thread on there ? So I don't have to take the sump and crossmember off. Like this: MCM MX5 +T

Another problem is, where does these two pipe goes, I only see 1 pipe fitting from the intercooler to throttle body on the intake pipe. Is one for the PCV valve and one for the flame trap ?





Thanks so much
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:34 AM   #2
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Its possible to drill the block for a return without dropping the pan but its risky and requires a good deal of caution.
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:45 AM   #3
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Its possible to drill the block for a return without dropping the pan but its risky and requires a good deal of caution.
I mean drilling the sump, coz using a Christmas drill bit, should not be able to damage the oil pump or whatever, and if i leave oil in there and then drain the oil afterwards, it should be fine ?
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:36 PM   #4
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Thats what I did. I used oil to flush it too along with acetone. Also the hose on the left is for iac and the right one is pcv I deleted the flame trap and ran the old hose to a catch can with a breather cause I didn't want to plumb it back into the intake
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:53 PM   #5
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Hey let's drill a hole and put millions of iron filings into the block. Sounds like turbobricks.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:53 PM   #6
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I opened up my stock FT drain plug with the pan in place. I greased the drill and tap which caught most of the chip, the rest got flushed out with kerosene and a magnetic drain plug.


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Hey let's drill a hole and put millions of iron filings into the block. Sounds like turbobricks.
hey let's discount the fact that plenty of people have done this without a problem. If you're creating "millions" of chips your drill bit sucks.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:58 PM   #7
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Sounds like turbobricks.
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:05 PM   #8
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Mm mm mm iron filings...

Drop the pan and weld in a bung.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:37 PM   #9
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Grease your bits gentlemen.
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:08 PM   #10
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Calvin my man. Don't be such a lazy kent and just weld the pan. Get yourself another pan and go see someone at an exhaust shop to weld you a nice piece of tube. Then lift your motor and pop it on. If you come by in September I can show you how they did mine. Been leak free for 2 and a half years now.

The turbos dont have a flame trap. Your PCV gets recycled into the turbo intake or a catch can your choice. The other fitting you see there is for your idle air valve.
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:39 PM   #11
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Scavenge pump? Like they use on rear mount turbo kits. If you dont want to drill anything or take anything off.
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:13 PM   #12
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I will say this, as far as the drilling thing, I had my +T done by a professional, and he drilled the block where the bung would be on a B230FT. He washed it out with gasoline, and I have not had a SINGLE Problem.
YMMV
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:16 AM   #13
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Also the hose on the left is for iac and the right one is pcv I deleted the flame trap and ran the old hose to a catch can with a breather cause I didn't want to plumb it back into the intake
So, the left hose plum back into where the pipe have the bung, and then the right hose into a catch can ? I thought catch can suppose to be in serial of the PCV, so, do u just plug one side of the catch can up and put the flame trap hose (the right one) into the catch can ?

EDIT:

So the left side hose is the Idle control valve ? So is that the hose that goes onto the bung for the intercooler to TB piping ?
And the right side is the PCV valve ?, so that plums into the oil catch can, block off the other hole for the oil catch can and done ?

Last edited by calvintibia001; 05-16-2014 at 04:03 AM..
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:17 PM   #14
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just for giggles, I drilled my pan installed in the car, using grease on the bit, and a big powerful magnet, and slow drill speed I made my hole. I then pulled the motor for a swap, pulled the pan and checked and saw absolutely 0 metal shavings anywhere but on the portion where the magnet was. However I do not recommend doing this, but it is possible to keep the shavings down to a nearly somehow acceptable level if you feel the need to.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #15
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I also drilled the block on my +T with the pan on I drilled a series of shallow holes to not break through and get rid of most of the filings. Then at the end i drilled through. Also used a shop vac to provide suction while i was drilling.

After, flushed w/ mineral spirits through the drill hole. Then felt around with a mag stick and got a little bit. Filled pan with CHEAP oil . Used oil works great. Then drained. then filled with cheap oil. ran it with an old filter for 30 minutes. changed the oil and the filter.

Never had a problem. It was a risk and a gamble that I was willing to take.

If you do it, its not a bad idea to put one of those magnetic blocks on your filter and on the drain plug. You have an oil filter so it should catch most of the crap that you dont get from fluid flushing.

Looking back on it. Its probably not much more work to drop the pan and put a fresh oil pan gasket on.

If you have a b230 drill the block not the pan. it gives you a superior oil drain path
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
I also drilled the block on my +T with the pan on I drilled a series of shallow holes to not break through and get rid of most of the filings. Then at the end i drilled through. Also used a shop vac to provide suction while i was drilling.

After, flushed w/ mineral spirits through the drill hole. Then felt around with a mag stick and got a little bit. Filled pan with CHEAP oil . Used oil works great. Then drained. then filled with cheap oil. ran it with an old filter for 30 minutes. changed the oil and the filter.

Never had a problem. It was a risk and a gamble that I was willing to take.

If you do it, its not a bad idea to put one of those magnetic blocks on your filter and on the drain plug. You have an oil filter so it should catch most of the crap that you dont get from fluid flushing.

Looking back on it. Its probably not much more work to drop the pan and put a fresh oil pan gasket on.

If you have a b230 drill the block not the pan. it gives you a superior oil drain path
I got a B230 block, so I think I might drill the block instead and tap the hole, so I got use braided line all the way, instead of using Rubber / Silicone Hose, and the sump i got that got a fitting welded on, doesn't look that nice, I might find someone to drill the block and swap the sump and gasket at the same time.
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Old 10-08-2017, 05:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
I also drilled the block on my +T with the pan on I drilled a series of shallow holes to not break through and get rid of most of the filings. Then at the end i drilled through. Also used a shop vac to provide suction while i was drilling.

After, flushed w/ mineral spirits through the drill hole. Then felt around with a mag stick and got a little bit. Filled pan with CHEAP oil . Used oil works great. Then drained. then filled with cheap oil. ran it with an old filter for 30 minutes. changed the oil and the filter.

Never had a problem. It was a risk and a gamble that I was willing to take.

If you do it, its not a bad idea to put one of those magnetic blocks on your filter and on the drain plug. You have an oil filter so it should catch most of the crap that you dont get from fluid flushing.

Looking back on it. Its probably not much more work to drop the pan and put a fresh oil pan gasket on.

If you have a b230 drill the block not the pan. it gives you a superior oil drain path
This is what I plan to do as well. Does anyone know the thickness of the block at the oil drain "pad". Be nice to be able to mark my bits and drill just shy of breaking through to get rid of most of the shavings. blkaplan's mailbox is full or I would just PM him.
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:38 PM   #18
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Just take the pan off and weld a bung to the pan.
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Old 10-09-2017, 12:57 AM   #19
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Just drill it and hammer in a 5/8 dual sided barb fitting and silicone it. It will be fine
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Old 10-09-2017, 05:35 AM   #20
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Hi thismachine
I have a turbo block in the garage which I have just measured for you.
I have the engine straight up on the stand so the pad looks angled on the outside but flat (vertical) on the inside.
The top measurement through the return hole is 19mm & the bottom is 35mm.
Tim
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:02 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by K9 240 View Post
Hi thismachine
I have a turbo block in the garage which I have just measured for you.
I have the engine straight up on the stand so the pad looks angled on the outside but flat (vertical) on the inside.
The top measurement through the return hole is 19mm & the bottom is 35mm.
Tim
Thank you, Tim!!
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:54 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
Just drill it and hammer in a 5/8 dual sided barb fitting and silicone it. It will be fine
I've decided not to tap for the to minimize shavings and do the above with the Yoshifab oil return conversion kit.

https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red...rsion-kit.html

What is the stock hole size in the block for the turbo drain? Thinking its a metric size but maybe SAE?
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:25 AM   #23
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Josh says I wouldn't be able to drill it close enough to get a press fit. Back to drill and tap because I don't want to have a fitting welded to the pan.
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Old 10-13-2017, 04:27 AM   #24
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You can get fittings that bolt through a hole in the pan. Come in a variety of different angles & seal well - I've used one for a couple of years on my +T.
Or are you saying you don't want to route the oil return to the pan?
Tim
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:42 AM   #25
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Correct, Tim. Hate reopening this Hatfield and McCoy debate of pan or block but I'd rather have the return in the block. Just a personal preference.

Thanks again everyone for the help.

Cheers!
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