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Old 07-26-2017, 11:06 PM   #26
Broke4speed
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Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Have you already tried the usual kickdown cable adjustment?
I don't actually want it to kick down. I'd much rather be able to make a bit of part-throttle boost in 4th to facilitate keeping up with traffic. The kickdown is far too aggressive, when engaged. The car lurches forward, the boost spikes (thank you, crappy wastegate bleed valve), and the RPMs jump up to 3500+.

It would be so much better to just crack the throttle a shave, like in a manual car, and actually see boost. I can't do that with the lockup, because my cruise RPMs are too low to get the turbo to spool. Without the lockup, the stall speed of the converter would carry the RPMs to 2500+, which would start to get me the part throttle boost I want, without kicking down.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:06 PM   #27
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lower rear gear, I'm sure somebody had a set of 4:11s for ya if you rebuilt that trans you can swap them gears. 1. moar better acceleration all the way through from a standing start on up, 2 your highway bog is gone 3 more torque multiplication now happens in the rear end instead of the trans giving it a break and lenthing it's lifespan 4. faster spool up because engine accelerates faster. I would think you would have to completely block the oil flow in the convertor oil circuit to disable the function, shimming it i would think it would engage harder or maybe later? could you swap to a non- lockup t.c.? or are the input shafts different?
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:09 PM   #28
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No electronic options? Be much better to switch it with an adjustable vacuum switch...
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:12 PM   #29
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No electronic options? Be much better to switch it with an adjustable vacuum switch...
that'd be tough, not a bunch of space in there, and something like a transbrake solenoid would lend to leaks and might not take the abuse
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:18 PM   #30
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The non-lockup TC won't fit. Linuxman51 has stated that lots of times, and he seems like he might know a thing or two.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:22 PM   #31
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yall are hilarious. you know you can also just roll off in it...
Not sure what that means. It's not a passing issue, it's a driving down the highway issue. The way it's setup, it makes OD semi-useless.

The problem isn't that kickdown doesn't work, the problem is that it makes it so that the OD with lockup makes it so high geared that it dogs around at anything under 70. There's way too much space between 3rd and locked up OD.

This explains the issue better than I can:

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On my 94 Volvo N/A 940 with AW-71L, the shift points are (IMHO) too close together between shifting into OD (4th speed) and the torque converter locking (5th speed).
As it is, driving on a road with a lot of inclines, the transmission spends very little time in OD.
This is like shifting from 5th gear into 3rd gear in a standard shift transmission.
The engine is either in a strain, or revving too high.

It seems like 1st to second gear and on into 3rd gear is OK.
At that point it will shift into OD at 45MPH, and the torque converter will follow closely, locking at 50 MPH....unless the accelerator is kept depressed and the car is accelerating quickly.

If I'm climbing a long steep grade, lack of HP prevents the car from accelerating when the converter is locked. This is simply a matter of engine horsepower verses engine load.

If the throttle is increased the transmission downshift will cause the transmission to simultaneously unlock the torque converter and shift out of OD.
This in effect shifts the overall gear shift from 5th to 3rd, and totally bypasses 4th (OD).
The engine is either lugged down, or it is revving higher than is required to increase the speed of the car.
It's a big jump in engine RPM.

I would disconnect....turn off....eliminate.... the locking feature of the torque converter if I could. No, I'm not going to swap it out...., just belly aching.

If all of my driving was on a flat road, it would be OK.

Too bad that Volvo didn't design some type of adjustment on the locking function in the torque converter.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:25 PM   #32
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^ This, all this. Sums it up exactly.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:37 PM   #33
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4.10 or 4.30 rear axle if the tires are stock size helps.

Some Toyotas came with an 03-71LE with electronic valve body. Those are nice in that you can keep the converter locked in 3rd so you can tow absurdly heavy things without burning it up, or by electronic means it'll do as you describe, but to be honest it's a lot less heat for the trans for prolonged periods (grades and/or towing) to keep it locked up in 3rd than to let the ECU unlock the converter and introduce a bunch of heat and climb the grade in OD / unlocked, just noisier.

Boost (or any significant power) + OD on AW-7x trans=rebuilding/replacing the trans plenty soon anyway.
If the car makes any decent power at all in boost, the kick down from OD +lockup to 3rd and light load/lack of OD is probably keeping the trans viable as it is, inconvenient as that might be for you.

If you want boost +OD, rebuild ZF4-22HP trans in earlier N/A cars with the land rover/jag V12/BMW ZF424HP bits and thrust washer update. Too bad those had the thrust washer screwup, they're a nice trans otherwise.
Those trans are mechanical, but have a larger converter clutch and will allow 3rd + lockup and have a much stronger OD not at the front of the trans. Good for a driver/towing car more than performance application though.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:58 PM   #34
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i don't think he wants to boost it to death, i believe what he is wanting to do is get rid of the soft spot at cruise speed between where the engine isn't on the cam and before boost comes in, and kicking down to third is to harsh. a unlocked convertor will give you roughly, from my g.m. experience will give you another 500 r.p.m. at cruise. is that enough revs to get you where ya want?
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:03 AM   #35
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500 would be a dream. My 16g would be starting to boil at that point, and the 'A' cam would be picking up too.
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:04 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freevolvos View Post
i don't think he wants to boost it to death, i believe what he is wanting to do is get rid of the soft spot at cruise speed between where the engine isn't on the cam and before boost comes in, and kicking down to third is to harsh. a unlocked convertor will give you roughly, from my g.m. experience will give you another 500 r.p.m. at cruise. is that enough revs to get you where ya want?
Sure, fine, but the guys in white lab coats weren't totally brain dead to have it kick down out of OD at really any hint of significant load and give it a little higher stall converter and 4.10 even with the original turbo. It's not an "accident" that it shifts from lockup+OD to 3rd when all they had was mechanical control.

It's not as though they had electronic control and a MAP sensor or the like, so they did what they could with what was available.

It doesn't take much boost (or horsepower rather) in OD to ruin them.
This is a long way around the block for what it accomplishes.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:42 AM   #37
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I'm not talking 15-20psi, all I want is the car to not be a dog at cruise. I'd be happy with 5psi to just bump up the forward momentum a shave if I am going up a hill or want to pass someone without going through the explosion of noise and boost spike that is called 'kickdown'.

This is a free way of eliminating the lockup, and free is always best. If it fails, I'm not going to cry.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:37 PM   #38
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Ok, so, halfway done. I dropped the lower part of the valve body, leaving the majority of it in place...and didn't lose track of any check balls.

Of course, nothing goes perfectly...sigh.

So I have this little wedge left over...



Now, I'm 99% sure I know where it goes, but I just want to confirm. I believe it goes here...



Correct?

(all images from various Linuxman51 threads ).
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Old 07-29-2017, 10:07 AM   #39
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did you get this too work? sorry can't help ya with that part location of you need me to i have a dead trans in the shed i could yank the pan and look
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Old 07-29-2017, 10:22 AM   #40
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lol off the top of my head, I dunno. we kept that stuff stacked up as best possible when we went through that valve body(which iirc is an aw72L)
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Old 07-29-2017, 01:24 PM   #41
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did you get this too work? sorry can't help ya with that part location of you need me to i have a dead trans in the shed i could yank the pan and look
I'll find out today if it worked. We had plans last night so I couldn't get it buttoned up, but it's on the schedule for today.
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Old 07-29-2017, 01:28 PM   #42
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lol off the top of my head, I dunno. we kept that stuff stacked up as best possible when we went through that valve body(which iirc is an aw72L)
I'll find out later today if it is the proper location, lol. I'm 99% certain, according to all the pictures I could find.
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Old 07-29-2017, 05:16 PM   #43
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Well, after a lot of extra hassle (don't do what I did, kids. Just drop the valve body as a whole.), I'm pleased to say that after adding a 7mm (roughly) shim to the lockup signal valve (exactly like doing the accumulator mod, just use a piece of bolt in the spring), the lockup is gone and the transmission works perfectly.

It's sooooooooooo much nicer to drive now! Part throttle boost at cruise makes it a lot easier to go up hills .
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Old 07-29-2017, 06:51 PM   #44
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Wiring diagrams for 93-95 940 shows an Oil Pressure Sensor Kick-down Valve (on transmission) This pressure switch grounds circuit 8 in overdrive relay. Speed sensor connects to overdrive relay terminal G.
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:29 AM   #45
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That's euro only. It's a kickdown inhibitor to prevent the lockup from kicking off when you put the pedal down above a certain speed.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...0&postcount=10


My 71L only has the OD solenoid.

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Old 08-01-2017, 10:31 PM   #46
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Hmm. Development...I think.
I can no longer shift the trans manually from 2-3, it does it automatically at 5800-ish even if I put the shifter in '2' and leave it there. I can hold 1 forever, but not 2. I am not sure if it did this before the mod or not. It functions completely normally in 'D', right from a dig all the way to top of 3rd though, so maybe it's supposed to behave that way in 2?

Anyone?
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:42 AM   #47
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Mine does the same thing. Will shift into 3rd even when in 2 but then suddenly will downshift at times if I forget to place it in D.
Another thing it does is when decelerating (OD off) and put it in 2 it sometimes takes a bit to downshift.
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:31 PM   #48
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turbo 400 does this too only it will shift out of first into second even in manual first, point being it's a Governor issue
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:38 PM   #49
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Good to know that it's not unique behaviour. I don't plan on manual shifting it very often, and it works phenomenally well in "D", so I was hoping it was just something I wasn't familiar with.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:27 PM   #50
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Deleting the lockup is the best thing I've ever done for this car. It's improved its fun factor by a hundredfold!
I've got a couple hundred KM on it so far, and it's been trouble free. I recommend this mod!
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