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Old 08-06-2017, 09:29 PM   #26
Harry Tuttle
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^ That is a good idea. The top part of the shaft rotates relative to the lower part in order to allow the centrifugal weights to change the timing. That is what you will lube if you put oil in the top under the felt pad.

I don't know for sure, but I seriously doubt that the oil you put there goes down to the bushing on the lower shaft. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

I recommend lubing both locations.
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:34 AM   #27
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Thanks for the responses guys.

So today I had the privilege of driving a factory turbo 1983 244Ti (non intercooled). Holy **** are these things slow..

Anyway I got a few detailed pictures of how the breakerless system was setup but still have a few questions. I think I know where most of the main wires from the black box loom go, but I was unsure where all the wires from the relay went. It appears as if all the relay wires go down near the starter as well as the brown wire from the ignition coil I think. I'll have to double check.

Also I did NOT see a ballast resistor anywhere on this 244T.
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:23 PM   #28
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Bump. Plz. No resistor present on this 83 244T? I looked in between the strut tower and firewall.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:17 PM   #29
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Yeah, I was thinking this. That there was no ballast on my turbo car before going MSD (and, I'm 100% positive that I had no relay. I don't remember what that would be for).

But, I was trying not to confuse you. Time for a wiring diagram for the donor car...
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:44 PM   #30
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Yeah, I was thinking this. That there was no ballast on my turbo car before going MSD (and, I'm 100% positive that I had no relay. I don't remember what that would be for).

But, I was trying not to confuse you. Time for a wiring diagram for the donor car...
Yeah I'll just have to look at a diagram from say a 1983 turbo car. Should clear it all up.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:56 PM   #31
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If I had a clue where my Bentley manual was, I'd look too.

Anyway, that relay... May not be until later model cars. Or, it could be for something unrelated to the ignition...
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:19 PM   #32
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If I had a clue where my Bentley manual was, I'd look too.

Anyway, that relay... May not be until later model cars. Or, it could be for something unrelated to the ignition...
It's fastened to the side of the black ignition box, pretty sure it's somewhat important.

I have a Bentley at home and started reading the breakerless section but didn't have time to finish. I need to though.
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:04 PM   #33
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The relay (Volvo#1 274 396) next to the ignition box is for the K-Jet Start Injector (turbo), and is not part of the ignition system. The ballast resistor, or at least on my '85, is mounted below the wiper motor, between the bulkhead and the right front strut tower.

I'm not sure if it's still available, but there used to be a '85 wiring greenbook on k-jet.org. Try searching for: TP30808-1_wiring_diagrams_1985_PRELIM.pdf
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:55 AM   #34
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The relay (Volvo#1 274 396) next to the ignition box is for the K-Jet Start Injector (turbo), and is not part of the ignition system. The ballast resistor, or at least on my '85, is mounted below the wiper motor, between the bulkhead and the right front strut tower.

I'm not sure if it's still available, but there used to be a '85 wiring greenbook on k-jet.org. Try searching for: TP30808-1_wiring_diagrams_1985_PRELIM.pdf
So I should be able to completely omit that relay from my system?
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:57 PM   #35
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Yes, can be eliminated. I don't know if they're worth anything -- it's a weird 3-pin relay that provides a brief start injector squirt under cold conditions. I'm sure it's pricey to replace with a new one but I have no idea if they ever need replacement.
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:32 PM   #36
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Turbo / non-turbo wiring - Should be identical and yes it is a separate harness.
Turbo / non-turbo distributor - IDK
Turbo / non-turbo amplifier - Definitely different
So is this false information since the timing curve is built into the distributor?
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:49 PM   #37
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Distributors are definitely different (different curves, with retard under boost vs. no retard with N/A)
I expect the control box / amplifier is the same for all K-jet breakerless, but haven't tried searching a parts catalog.
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:05 AM   #38
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The impulse relay is for hot starts. Cold start enrichment is accomplished by the thermal timer.



All 4 cylinder breakerless amplifiers are the same. There are 2 different part #s because it was updated, but they are functionally the same. 6 cylinders cars used a different amplifier.

All breakerless systems used a ballast AFAIK.

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Old 08-09-2017, 10:03 AM   #39
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Awesome, thanks for the info guys.
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Old 08-10-2017, 02:14 PM   #40
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So is this false information since the timing curve is built into the distributor?
They have different part numbers. Caveat Emptor
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Old 08-10-2017, 03:00 PM   #41
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The original Volvo part # for the 4 cylinder ignition amplifier was 462763. The part # was updated to 1266714.

The original Bosch # was 0 227 100 005. The updated # is 0 227 100 018.

There is no distinction between turbo and non turbo amplifiers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Bosch-Ig...-/122316278484

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bosch-Ig...tZhIxM&vxp=mtr
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:30 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
The original Volvo part # for the 4 cylinder ignition amplifier was 462763. The part # was updated to 1266714.

The original Bosch # was 0 227 100 005. The updated # is 0 227 100 018.

There is no distinction between turbo and non turbo amplifiers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Bosch-Ig...-/122316278484

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bosch-Ig...tZhIxM&vxp=mtr
Good Info. Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 08-25-2017, 10:57 AM   #43
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The more I think about this, the more I'm tempted to swap to EZK rather than breakerless. Pulling my distributor to install an even older one seems like a PITA. And having knock enrichment would be cool. As well as variable timing maps.

I'm trying to learn the differences between EZK 116 and EZK 117.
EZK116=LH2.4
EZK117=LH2.2

Since 2.4 uses a crank sensor to get an rpm signal, could I not use a more modern EZK 116 box with my lh2.2 distributor with hall sensor? I don't mind using the EZK 117 system if it will work more easily with my 2.2 dist, it's just that I already have an LH2.2 EZK (116).

Also do both EZK systems use a powerstage? Or was that only a 240 thing?

I'm going to spend later today reading all about EZK. I know I was too stubborn to use EZK earlier but I think it may be a better option. Hopefully all the wiring isn't too difficult for a novice with a soldering gun.
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Old 08-25-2017, 09:41 PM   #44
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You need a Turbo LH2.2 ECU and a Turbo EZK117 ('012). The EZK is specific to the LH2.2 distributor pickup (4 pulses per disti revolution). A LH2.4 EZK expects the 60-2 flywheel pattern and VR CPS sensor input. It won't work with LH2.2 hall disti pickup & pattern. The ECU, LH2.2 or LH2.4, sends load information (via Tq wire) to the EZK. The EZK uses this to select which row of ignition advance values to use.

I'm not sure if there are any chipable LH2.2 EZKs. I also don't know if, or which, 2.2 ECUs can have their chip simply swapped from a N/A to a Turbo chip image. I think sbabbs can burn factory images for very reasonable $$$.

Both 2.2 and 2.4 EZKs use a power stage. I'm not sure about compatibility.
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Old 08-26-2017, 10:27 AM   #45
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You need a Turbo LH2.2 ECU and a Turbo EZK117 ('012). The EZK is specific to the LH2.2 distributor pickup (4 pulses per disti revolution). A LH2.4 EZK expects the 60-2 flywheel pattern and VR CPS sensor input. It won't work with LH2.2 hall disti pickup & pattern. The ECU, LH2.2 or LH2.4, sends load information (via Tq wire) to the EZK. The EZK uses this to select which row of ignition advance values to use.

I'm not sure if there are any chipable LH2.2 EZKs. I also don't know if, or which, 2.2 ECUs can have their chip simply swapped from a N/A to a Turbo chip image. I think sbabbs can burn factory images for very reasonable $$$.

Both 2.2 and 2.4 EZKs use a power stage. I'm not sure about compatibility.
Awesome that is fantastic info thank you! I didn't know of thedifferences between 2.2 and 2.4 turbo ezk boxes. I will have to stick with the 2.2 (ezk117) box. That's fine. Does that still use a knock sensor and have knock enrichment? I seem to remember reading that no lh2.2 cars used a knock sensor.

I'm not worried about chipping the ezk I'll just use it stock. I believe I need a 012 ezk box to pair with my 541 ecu. As well as some harness and stuff. Gotta do more research still.

I'll be glad to use the stock distributor since I've heard it can be a pita to remove, especially with 300k miles. And my spare motor is already lh2.2 equipped so that'll make it even easier.
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Old 08-26-2017, 10:54 AM   #46
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Yes, LH2.2 uses a knock sensor. If you have a couple hours to kill, you can read all about Volvo ignition systems in: Volvo TP 31397-13 Ignition
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:19 PM   #47
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Yes, LH2.2 uses a knock sensor. If you have a couple hours to kill, you can read all about Volvo ignition systems in: Volvo TP 31397-13 Ignition
Oh man, the golden greenbooks thanks for the link, I'll save it and read that later. That **** is so intriguing to me I'm such a nerd.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:09 PM   #48
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I'll be installing the breakerless system on this engine, and ezk on the next one after we blow this one up.

My breakerless setup did not come with a ballast resistor; is it safe to run the vehicle without one or do I risk damaging the ignition box or coil? If I need one, will any ballast resistor of the correct resistance suffice or does it need to specifically be one from a Volvo?

Thanks.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:26 PM   #49
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I bypass the ballast resistor to get a hotter spark on b21ft cars. You just can't leave the key on with out the car running. If you leave the key on, the coil WILL explode.

Don't fall asleep listening to the radio when you accidentally turned the key too far. Don't ask how I know this.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:03 AM   #50
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I bypass the ballast resistor to get a hotter spark on b21ft cars. You just can't leave the key on with out the car running. If you leave the key on, the coil WILL explode.

Don't fall asleep listening to the radio when you accidentally turned the key too far. Don't ask how I know this.
Okay so without the resistor I risk blowing up the coil if I'm in KP2 WITHOUT the engine running?

I have yet to find a good write up on the 'simple' breakerless conversion. Lots of ezk talk everywhere but I'm really determined to make this breakerless setup work.
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