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The best way to build a B230f + T

icdpride

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Location
Denver Colorado
So you are going to build a a b230f for a + T how would you build it for the most power and reliability. Lets say you are keeping the na 530 head but can change pretty much anything else

Keep it Reblock
Keep it 8v

If this is already a thread just link it or yell at me or what ever
 
Last edited:
Bore to 2.5 liters using penta crank. Forged rods. Forged pistons with valve reliefs for 16 valves. 16 valve head. Penta or kl racing cams. Customer manifolds or kl racing. Ball bearing turbo de jour boosted to 30psi. E85. Um...4l80 trans? 8.8 rear end. Ms3pro with a slick AF tune.
 
I am not asking about my specific build, I was just asking in general how would you build a no holds bared badass 8v redblock

Mine is mostly built I just need to redo the bottom end this is what I have currently
vDyBP13l.jpg


B230f +t 86 block, installed oil squirters and rods from 93 new rings
Cometic head gasket
530 head with some minor porting work
IPD Turbo cam
2.2lh Block mounted distributor
Megasquirt 2.0 v3.57 with Mapdaddy 4bar
10' ms harness from diyautotune.com
OBX (ebay) turbo manifold flipped and re welded with braces and extermal wastegate
38mm External wastgate
Gt35 (a/r .70) ebay turbo
3" downpipe
Innvoative ls-2 Wideband o2
GENSSI Blue Type S Adjustable Fuel pressure Regulator
YoshiFab redblock billet TPS sensor adapter
1000cc injectors with resistor pack
 
I am not asking about my specific build, I was just asking in general how would you build a no holds bared badass 8v redblock

Well that kinda changes things.

power and reliability are not two things that one looks for in a +T... be realistic of your goals.

It looks like you have the injector and turbo to support your goals (badass).

I would suggest three things.

1. e85. with high compression, unless you want to be running 5 degrees of advance at 200kpa and above without knocking, you need it.

2. buy the ms3 and get the knock sensor chip. Ditch the 2.2 distributor and buy a yoshifab dsm CAS... wire it with sequential ignition. Reason is this... it lets you distinguish knock per cylinder vs just "hey it's knocking" I think it's a valuable addition. Your +T is constantly on borrrowed time for a bad tank of gas or lousy tuning. Having a microphone mounted on the engine that can retard timing can help save those fragile cast pistons from shattering ring lands when the engine knocks. If you're in love with your distributor and still want sequential ignition for the reasons listed, cut off all but one hall tooth (build a hall circuit), install a crank sensor and you can still get sequential ignition without coming up with the coin for the CAS.

EDIT... I think you can keep MS2 and there's a way to use the MS3extra card and knock sensor but I'm not familiar with it. Could be done cheaper than going with MS3

3. get it professionally dyno tuned. Seriously. Spend the money and get it done. You have to find a MS-friendly tuner or a good friend that owns a dyno shop. You can get close on the street but there's nothing like doing the tuning in a controlled environment. Like I said, you can get close but if you want power and reliability I think this is just as important as say a wbo2.

ymmv
 
Well that kinda changes things.

3. get it professionally dyno tuned. Seriously. Spend the money and get it done. You have to find a MS-friendly tuner or a good friend that owns a dyno shop. You can get close on the street but there's nothing like doing the tuning in a controlled environment. Like I said, you can get close but if you want power and reliability I think this is just as important as say a wbo2.

ymmv


Thanks for the advice man, I am still figuring out what to do with the bottom end I had a bearing failure, I am doing forged rods now I am debating the piston set up.

Finding a megasquirt friendly dyno in Syracuse NY that is proving to be tough really tough lol
 
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