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Old 05-12-2019, 01:10 PM   #1
DrZiplok
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Default [240] SKF Rear axle bearings not so sturdy under side loads?

When your Redline CV2 is silver, and things are coming apart like this after a weekend:



this doesn't seem right. Was SKF the wrong choice? This is the second set that have done this; the first time we didn't catch it until that loose ring was nearly completely gone.
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:24 PM   #2
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SKF is oem. Not sure if anything that comes in the blue box would be any better.

I wonder if there is a higher load version of that bearing available...

If you are having rear axle failures and wheel bearing failures... you might want to examine your setup.. Its just not that common on these cars. Is something bent or rubbing?

I wonder what your axle temps are looking like?

This looks like another selling point for a floating setup if every thing else checks out.
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:28 PM   #3
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When they were racing IPD had a bunch of failures. There used to be a double row rear axle bearing that IPD used to sell. It stuck out a bit more but had a double oring seal on it. I guess they no longer sell that. Will take a look at some of my old stuff and see what is there for more info.
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Old 05-13-2019, 04:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
If you are having rear axle failures and wheel bearing failures... you might want to examine your setup.. Its just not that common on these cars. Is something bent or rubbing?
Didn't they mount the axle tubes at an angle to the center section to gain rear camber on the actual group A cars (not the homo group A cars)and just let the axles flex? I bet they had to do bearings every race.
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Old 05-13-2019, 04:40 PM   #5
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I don't like this post. I just installed some SKF bearings on my axles.
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:35 PM   #6
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Hows the inner seal? Axle looks like its wet from gear oil?
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:57 PM   #7
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OK I found it. The bearing has Green RW-902-V on it as the description. No other markings other than a symbol on the box which I don't recognize. It does come up as an available bearing number on the interwebs. Maybe get something like that from Moser?
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
OK I found it. The bearing has Green RW-902-V on it as the description. No other markings other than a symbol on the box which I don't recognize. It does come up as an available bearing number on the interwebs. Maybe get something like that from Moser?
Thats a double row ball bearing?
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
Hows the inner seal? Axle looks like its wet from gear oil?
Inner seal looks fine, was brand new for this race. Axle in the pic is wet with diesel, it's sitting in the parts washer.

I don't have a non-fuzzy pic of the pre-washup bearing, but basically the grease (Redline CV2) was *loaded* with metal dust, almost like putty.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:19 PM   #10
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Green RW902V crosses directly with RW131R per Timken's bearing interchange guide. Toasted bearing at top of page is SKF GRW131R...

I've never tried talking to Moser; are they likely to be interested in finding a better bearing for such an oddball application?
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:48 PM   #11
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Default IPD heavy duty rear wheel bearing.

OK Here are pics. I bought this because race car long ago. I didn't use them and ruined the other one taking it off. They stick out and require spacing the retainer plate. Washers included with the kit. Makes it hard install the ebrake and it was a stock street car so this went on the shelf.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:05 AM   #12
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Many thanks, failed to comprehend that you had one in hand. Time to go look for more cross-reference guides!
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:04 AM   #13
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I just notice some slop in my rear axle bearings as well and also don't like this thread, makes me feel like replacing them won't do much for long...
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:16 AM   #14
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Are you shimming the axle for zero end-play when you replace the bearings?
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:22 AM   #15
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the originals were fine for 20-30 years...
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:42 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Are you shimming the axle for zero end-play when you replace the bearings?
can you expand? We did wheel bearings last week, didn't shim anything..
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:11 PM   #17
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I ran the other number (7451960 as best as I can read)on the bearings and it comes back as this:
https://spareto.com/oe/7451960
They list it as a jeep bearing, which makes sense because jeep also used a dana 30
Same number comes up as a 70s gm bearing

I bet someone at IPD still knows about this. Were they not restoring their old race car recently?
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotSoFresh View Post
I ran the other number (7451960 as best as I can read)on the bearings and it comes back as this:
https://spareto.com/oe/7451960
They list it as a jeep bearing, which makes sense because jeep also used a dana 30
Same number comes up as a 70s gm bearing

I bet someone at IPD still knows about this. Were they not restoring their old race car recently?
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Are you shimming the axle for zero end-play when you replace the bearings?
We've always shimmed with a scrap of the dust shield (you can see it in the pic). Never any end play, no obvious drag due to preload. Obviously without it there's way too much preload and the bearing doesn't spin at all.
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZiplok View Post
We've always shimmed with a scrap of the dust shield (you can see it in the pic). Never any end play, no obvious drag due to preload. Obviously without it there's way too much preload and the bearing doesn't spin at all.
Do you think its possible it is over shimmed and you are pressing the bearing cage into the rollers and thats why they ate the cage?
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZiplok View Post
We've always shimmed with a scrap of the dust shield (you can see it in the pic). Never any end play, no obvious drag due to preload. Obviously without it there's way too much preload and the bearing doesn't spin at all.
Interesting. I leave out the dust shield and have no issues, and very minimal (if any) end-play. Usually I end up with zero preload and about 12-ish in/lbs of bearing drag when measured with my calibrated hand/wrist. It feels like a well setup pinion bearing.

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can you expand? We did wheel bearings last week, didn't shim anything..
Early Dana diffs used shims under the retaining plate to set axle end-play. You could do the same with a shim under the bearing race/cup. Reduces pad knock-back and improves bearing life unless it's set too tight.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
Do you think its possible it is over shimmed and you are pressing the bearing cage into the rollers and thats why they ate the cage?
The shim / dust shield spaces the retainer out, so more shim would mean less preload. We have tried (briefly) assembling with no shim over a fresh bearing and unlike culberro's experience we were not happy with the resulting feel (IIRC the axle was completely un-turnable).

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Old 05-15-2019, 11:47 AM   #23
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did I miss something or does the greenbook procedure make no mention of shims.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:48 AM   #24
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did I miss something or does the greenbook procedure make no mention of shims.
No mention of shims, that I know of, in the manuals.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:57 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
did I miss something or does the greenbook procedure make no mention of shims.
The dust shield effectively shims the retainer plate out; it fits around the outer seal / keeper whereas the retainer plate presses on it.
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