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Old 01-08-2017, 02:35 PM   #1
kingkong
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Default 244, Holset, and 30psi.

Hi everyone,
My name's Max. I just got this 244 from a friend for next to nothing.
300 000kms. It has a B200E.
Coming from the Mazda rotary world, i wanted a cheap car that i could trash and repair all da long, and a big brrrraaAAAAPPP STU STU STU STU

Purpose of the build : be as fun and as stupid as possible.

The plan : a Holset HX.... whatever i find. I saw on youtube that from the 35 to the 52, it spools like crazy on the 8v volvo engines.
Big injectors, probably a custom intake manifold, and above all this, a Megasquirt MS2.

Here she is, waiting to be a monster








I took some time to read on this great forum. I know my way around turbos and ECU's but where i will need your help guys, is with the 240 specific parts.

Such as where to find an aluminium rad, how to make my suspensions stiff enough to drift, etc...

See you around.
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:59 PM   #2
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Sounds good!
I'd mostly invest in a set of H-beam rods!

Aluminium rad will be available from www.do88.se in the future they also have nice drop in intercoolers. Tho more $$ than the generic IC's.. You can also use the wide 940 radiator from certain models. As cooling usually is no issue.

many great suppliers. www.kaplhenke.com, www.classicswede.co.uk, www.klracing.se, www.skandix.de, www.retroturbo.com, www.igmab.com, www.mpre.se, www.folkraceshop.se etc etc, forgetting a lot, just naming a few from the top of my head, some relevant, some less..

Edit:

http://forum.savarturbo.se/viewtopic...555025#p555025

Some inspiration. Junkyard B230FB, H-beams, stock used pistons turned down 1,5mm, Holset HX35, KL header, reground cam, stock headgasket, E85, some porting, KL-racing intake. 435 Hp at 1,6 bar of boost, 400+Nm from 3000-7500 rpm.

Last edited by JW240; 01-08-2017 at 04:29 PM..
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:21 PM   #3
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30 psi? Better get the big rods
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:34 PM   #4
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Thank you guys, that is great info ! Got a lot of reading to do, too bad i don't speak swedish.

Yes i was planning to to the rods. But that is what's appealing about strong lil 4 cyl : its only 4 of everything thus cheaper to make it strong.

About turning down the pistons, i'd rather leave untouched their structural integrity and go with a thicker head gasket so i can have a CR around 8.5

According to the OEM tech book that came with the car, the T cam is the one that has biggest lift so i'll try to source one. Can you confirm ? Unless you know of a better aftermarket cam, that doesn't cost an arm and a leg of course.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:52 PM   #5
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The T is a mild stock cam. Funner stock ones are K, H, D, V, the latter better for turbo.

Folkraceshop has reground cams for ~110 euro. Add ~80 for springs and lash caps though. Need to send an old cam as a core (certain models).

http://folkraceshop.se/volvo/kamaxel...-fs122-kamaxel

This one I test-drove, nice cam, also with boost! Pulls hard, into the 7K rpm.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:42 PM   #6
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The H beam rods are going to be a must. The pistons I would not touch nor would I fit a thicker gasket as that would increase the risk of of pinging. The best bet is to de shroud the valves and take some material from the head.

T cam is not a great cam other than for stump pulling, you dont want silly but almost any other factory cam is better
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:59 PM   #7
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Thanks for the input guys.

I have a very simple question, so i can start choosing parts : which is the closest engine to the B200E ? Is it the B20 ? The B230 ? Cause i can find many parts for these engines on the sites you mentionned, but not for the B200.

Thanks again, i'm new to the Volvo world. But i can promise you i will do a very stupid car out of this 240.
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkong View Post
Thanks for the input guys.

I have a very simple question, so i can start choosing parts : which is the closest engine to the B200E ? Is it the B20 ? The B230 ? Cause i can find many parts for these engines on the sites you mentionned, but not for the B200.

Thanks again, i'm new to the Volvo world. But i can promise you i will do a very stupid car out of this 240.
b230 is the block to get. you should seek out the 93+ b230 engines as they came with oil squirters, and the thrust bearing location moved.
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ship me that m46 for 40 bucks and im game
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:07 PM   #9
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I'm not going to swap the engine, i just wanna know what reference i need to use when choosing perf parts for the B200E i have. Thanks anyway.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:12 PM   #10
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Yes the B230 of the same year is the reference I would use. Some early B2x0 years used smaller bearings, until '89 smaller rods (all B2x0), then in 92-93-ish squirters, at one point pistons changed slightly, early weak versions (non turbo, non GLT etc) had the smaller economy valve springs which are maybe just adequate for a lightly warmed up redblock when they are this old etc.

So grab a set of H-beams for the year engine you have, bearings too. Best take apart and measure if the engine is close to a date at which it changed. Remember that USA cars can have different cutoff dates for certain parts than EU cars (which usually got the better stuff earlier). Date can be found near exhaust port no 4 close to firewall and near alternator/engine mount exhaust side.

B200 is nice because of smaller bore. When doing big tuning this is prob more important than 15% more displacement.

Some engine stuff: http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...%20Tracing.pdf
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:02 AM   #11
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Thanks jw240.

Looks like a clutch job is coming sooner than expected. 1st and 2nd gears are really hard to shift into, TO bearing fork has no play. but if i revmatch, all good.

What do you guys reckon to be the clutch i need for the engine i am building ? I don't wanna look at trans swaps yet. Less option for the 218mm clutch than for the turbo it seems but i might look at the wrong places.

Again, lot of questions but i am no internet dreamer and i need clean precise answers so i can't order the right parts

A litte pic of my last build : a miata wih a pripheral ported Mazda rotary engine, all home made.



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Old 01-11-2017, 03:23 AM   #12
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Nice, that is a bad-ass mazda!
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:28 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
The pistons I would not touch


Did you miss the part where he said Holset and 30psi?
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post


Did you miss the part where he said Holset and 30psi?
:D
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:47 PM   #15
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LOL
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:58 AM   #16
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:38 AM   #17
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Now now boys, no need to get angry.

Back to topic. Look like i'll be doing an M90 swap since my M47 (or 46) is not going to hold with 400nm and i hate to redo things.

Since my car has a cable clutch, i would prefer to leave it that way if possible. Anyone knows what car had the redblock and cable clutch M90 ?
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkong View Post
Now now boys, no need to get angry.

Back to topic. Look like i'll be doing an M90 swap since my M47 (or 46) is not going to hold with 400nm and i hate to redo things.

Since my car has a cable clutch, i would prefer to leave it that way if possible. Anyone knows what car had the redblock and cable clutch M90 ?
none.. M90 has always hydraulical engagement..

Look for some gearboxes from sweden.. l-m-r.se bakaxeldelar.se they have welded Bimmerboxes... if I would do a build rightnow i wouldnt do the mistake again, using the M90.. it is expensive and unthankful ;)
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:47 AM   #19
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Funny you say that cause this is your great thread that conviced me to go M90 lol. I am only at page 5 though, where the TTV flywheel gets burned lol.

We have tons of BMW trans in France, everywhere, since these cars are heavily used for drifting. What trans (from what car) do you reckon will be the most straightforward swap mate ? Cheers
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:54 PM   #20
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i think your power goal is higher than a M90 reliable can take, also depending on how you drive. But it is a cheap and relatively easy swap.
Though 400NM is still perfectly possible for M90 imho. Captain Bondo used one with a 540 hp t6 iirc. So they aren't especially weak.

The more modern ZF gearboxes from 320D and higher spec, up to 530D, are the right ones. The cutting+welding of the bellhousing is not super difficult if you have lathe/mill but its not something you finish in one afternoon. I think the boxes from Bakaxeldelar are good value.
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:55 PM   #21
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T is far from the highest lift, here's a good page for stock and aftermarket cam reference:

http://www.turbobricks.com/resources...ontent=camspec
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:12 PM   #22
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The m90 will handle your 400nm imho, but if you need to go indestructible then BMW 320D-520D is the way to go, however get the 6 speed as the 5 speed will leave you with high revs at high way speeds and the desire to use a 3.30 rearend.
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:19 PM   #23
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I have access to a very talented welder, and a mill. But to be honest, i'm too old (even though i'm 29) for the full custom way involving very precise jigs. Spent every night and weekend durnig the last two years on the miata, which is custom everything. I want this volvo to break egos this summer.

Apparently the getrag 265 is a bit of a unicorn, since the rremovable BH is so appealing for swaps. So unlikely to happen. Yet i already found a 4 speed 262 for next to nothing. But it is still a 4-speed. Unless someone tells me it is sooo good, i am not buying an adapter kit for it.

T5 are nowhere to find in France.

That leaves us with the M90. The junkyard hunt begins tomorrow.

On another topic, i found how i could lower the CR : with 149mm rods found here : http://www.acm-ab.se/spm-vevstake-vo...230-234/1267-0
That would give me a CR of 7.73 which is perfect for turbo. With stock B200E pistons.
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:20 PM   #24
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The m90 will handle your 400nm imho, but if you need to go indestructible then BMW 320D-520D is the way to go, however get the 6 speed as the 5 speed will leave you with high revs at high way speeds and the desire to use a 3.30 rearend.
That is perfect but a lot of moneyyyyyzzzz. I will buy the diesel tranny if i have no choice.
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:38 AM   #25
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Things dont have to get super expensive even if you go bmw ...check this out on facebook https://www.facebook.com/Brandtab/
He has every thing you might need and for a reasonable price too ..no it wont beat 300€ for a (welded) M90 and by welded i mean that they have welded the stop ring on the 3rd gear. http://forum.savarturbo.se/viewtopic.php?t=37397 (sorry in swedish)
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