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2 things left to do on my t5 swap, need advice

This is a rebuilt engine right? Don't start it up "just to see if everything works" then shut if off again, that can be very hard on new engines. Only do it when you're ready to break it in properly, whichever method you choose to do. And MAKE SURE you have oil pressure before you even think of running it. Best method is to take your timing belt off and use a drill to spin the intermediate shaft, that'll spin the oil pump and you can watch your gauge to make sure there's pressure and no leaks. Another great way is to take a stock oil pump drive gear, grind off all the teeth, weld a hex head to the top, and slap it into the engine. Then you can use the drill to spin the pump without having to mess with your timing belt or remove the rad/fan to gain access. A worse, but completely acceptable way, is to just crank the engine with no fuel/spark until you have pressure.

Ohh and in case I haven't mentioned it yet, make sure there's oil pressure. :-P
 
wow thats a great idea, im gonna spin the intermediate shaft as soon as i put oil in.

what do you recommend to break in the engine on the first start up? im gonna use 10w40 oil and i got that lucas mineral stuff.
 
I had a bellhousing I had to notch, and it didn't have the visible cut out. I marked where it should be on bellhousing, then sort of traced the position sensor mounting. Then took a carbide rotary bit on a dremel tool. Took about 10 minutes, the aluminum cuts like butter


Jordan
 
The method I used is very long, complicated, and awesome. Full details are in my "building a B23 from the ground up" thread, make some popcorn first. Other people break it in with the intended use of the engine, if it's a race car, they get it running then beat the piss out of it. Up to you how to do it, there are many ways to achieve what is basically the same goal.
 
ed945t said:
I used the two piece 940 D-shaft. I had a driveline shop cut off the front end and weld up a yoke to mate to the ford slip yoke. I ended up with about 1 1/8" out from the seal, the guys at the shop looked at it and said its fine.

I used the slick stik shifter and it doesn't come anywhere near the yoke, in any gear, that shouldn't be a problem.
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You're using a mustang t5 right? Where did you get you shift kit? I was thinking of using a kit like that with a camero tail shaft when i go to do my swap. How does your placement feel?
 
WindowsBreakerG4 said:
You're using a mustang t5 right? Where did you get you shift kit? I was thinking of using a kit like that with a camero tail shaft when i go to do my swap. How does your placement feel?
Click to expand...

i dont have it in the car yet, but if you have a 7/9 forty then i dont think ben's shifter adapter will work, its made for the mustang tail.

i saw some guy on here selling a whole t5 swap for like a 1000 bucks, id hit him up
 
Yea shipping would kill that though, probably 400 bucks to get it to CA and i don't have a grand to drop right now lol.
 
ok another problem ive run into, the cylinder collar that's inside the bell housing, i took off the snap ring to get it out but i still cant get it out? is there a trick to this?
 
The 4" setback puts the lever right in the middle of the tunnel opening. I did have to cut about 2" more out of the forward end of the tunnel to clear the lever when in 1st, 3rd, 5th. I think there are some pics where you can see this. It was a clean way to get the shifter placement right. There is a bit of up and down feel to the shifter from odd to even gears because of the geometry but otherwise nice.
 
got the tranny in today! fit great and shifter location is on point.

just have to get the x member done. btw at how much of an angle should the tranny sit? should i just make sure the u-joint is as lined up as possible? or should i go by how the engine sits.
 
The best way would be if you took measurements along the driveline with a plumb bob before removing anything.....then you put it right back to that height and fab the mount. Other wise, you will have to eyeball and try to keep the universal lined up.
 
i am about to start my car, i need to get a quick answer.

what exactly do i have to jump for the neutral switch? i found a plug with two pink and two blue wires is that it?
 
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Yes, I made a short jumper wire from a piece of the auto shifter, soldered a spade on both ends and plugged it in. then I secured it in the plug end when I buttoned up the console area.
 
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