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B20B bad cam, popping out of carb

Exhaust emissions changed in 74. Engineering submitted cam specs to quality control for approval. Bean counters said you don’t need metal the good for the cam and lifters. We all know where this went. I built a piramid out of flat cams that was over a foot tall from 74 to 76
 
JohnMc said:
And just from experience, be careful when removing the timing gear from the cam. The gear is what holds the cam in place - at least from it sliding back into the engine.

So if you were to... say... brace the cam gear and tap on the cam nose (since you are replacing the gear and cam anyhow)... and then the cam finally pops free... and slides back into the engine with a modest amount of force... it can knock out the metal plug on the back side of the engine. Inside the bellhousing, behind the flywheel. And suddenly you have added a transmission remove and replace task to your cam swap.
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Listen to this man. I did just this earlier this year. Also had a flat cam with almost no lobes that ran just like yours. Dont forget your break in paste!
 
boostin'xr4 said:
Listen to this man. I did just this earlier this year. Also had a flat cam with almost no lobes that ran just like yours. Dont forget your break in paste!
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Just loosen the big nut that holds the cam on, but leave it threaded on the cam snout. So the gear has like 1/8" of room to move. A puller is obviously a good thing to use here, but you can't always get a generic puller to fit onto a timing gear properly. But if that nut is on there, whatever you do to pop the gear loose, it can only go back that 1/8".
 
vwbusman66 said:
I'm debating yanking the engine and really don't want to without driving it first. If I pull it, I may be too tempted to plop something newer into it.
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Stay on target....stay on target! Fix the B20 and get the car back on the road. Don't let it die and wither away in project car purgatory.

tenor.gif
 
Duder said:
vwbusman66 said:
I'm debating yanking the engine and really don't want to without driving it first. If I pull it, I may be too tempted to plop something newer into it.
Click to expand...

Stay on target....stay on target! Fix the B20 and get the car back on the road. Don't let it die and wither away in project car purgatory.
Click to expand...
Hear, hear! Swapping a cam should take you part of a leisurely weekend day. The old pushrod motors are just far simpler to work on. Maybe all day if your definition of 'leisurely' is really on the leisurely side. Coupla hundred bucks, it's running again, and then you can drive it around while you ponder taking out the running B20 to put something else in.
 
Thought that 142 looked like it would be a decent driver with it's original drivetrain.

Now thinking it will end up being another unfinished "awesome project" car.
 
JohnMc said:
Hear, hear! Swapping a cam should take you part of a leisurely weekend day. The old pushrod motors are just far simpler to work on. Maybe all day if your definition of 'leisurely' is really on the leisurely side. Coupla hundred bucks, it's running again, and then you can drive it around while you ponder taking out the running B20 to put something else in.
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Duder/John- b20 is staying in the car for the foreseeable future. I just don?t want to pull the engine because I?m lazy.
I got home from work at 6:15 and worked fron then till now trying to do a timing/serp belt on the beater p2r. **** fords
****.
 
If you use the Volvo cam gear puller and the cam gear installation tools properly, you won't damage the cam plug.

If you need, I have both of those 2 tools available for rent.
 
I was able to do the cam/lifter job while the engine was in the car. This was on a '75 240, so there *may* have been more room. I did have to pull the radiator to do it, though.
The lifter and cam looked like this.

Lifter_1.jpg

Bad%20lobe.jpg
 
I've done cams with the motor in the car on a 544, a 122, and 1800, and a 140 as well. I'm pretty sure that part of the Volvo styling/design department's job was to make sure the grille opening was large enough and in the right spot for the cam to come out with the engine in place.
 
Volvo didn't think about camshaft access on the V6 260s and 700s.

Originally you would have to pull the heads to change the cams and a changing they be needing due to clogged oil passages, but someone came up with the idea to cut a large hole in the firewall so the cams could be removed without pulling the heads. Volvo even sold a large rubber plug to fill the hole afterwards.
 
vwbusman66,
I have the original cam from my 73. You are welcome to if for a small fee & shipping. I figure $50 should get it to you.
You would need to get some lifters.
At least it could get you going until you figure out what you are going to do engine-wise.
Let me know and I can send you some pics.
Steve
 
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