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Old 02-07-2018, 12:37 AM   #26
cosbySweater
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I will say this, if the car is a daily, a b230f+t, t cam, and 15g is a very fun and drivable combo
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:27 AM   #27
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I will say this, if the car is a daily, a b230f+t, t cam, and 15g is a very fun and drivable combo
But what if I want more.
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:56 AM   #28
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You could always rebuild your 15G with a bigger coldside (20T?) - supposed to be an upgrade.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:24 AM   #29
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and you could pay some serious attention to port matching the exhaust side from head to manifold, from manifold to turbine housing, the wastegate port (cost: some good quality diegrinder tools and your own time and input) and offcourse use a nice freeflowing downpipe and exhaust.(at least 2.5") You want to have the biggest pressure drop from manifold to downpipe.
The easier the turbine can get rid of the exhaust gasses, the faster it will spool up. The easier the exhaust gasses can flow into the turbine, the faster it will spool up.
All this detail work will reduce lag and make the turbo spool up quicker and respond to different throttle inputs faster.
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:14 AM   #30
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and you could pay some serious attention to port matching the exhaust side from head to manifold,don't do this! from manifold to turbine housing,I have a different opinion too at this point the wastegate port YES!(cost: some good quality diegrinder tools and your own time and input) and offcourse use a nice freeflowing downpipe and exhaust.(at least 2.5")Most important, better a 3" downpipe and cat, after cat 2,5" is enough You want to have the biggest pressure drop from manifold to downpipe.
The easier the turbine can get rid of the exhaust gasses, the faster it will spool up. The easier the exhaust gasses can flow into the turbine, the faster it will spool up.
All this detail work will reduce lag and make the turbo spool up quicker and respond to different throttle inputs faster.

And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench.
Regards, Kay
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:31 AM   #31
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And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench.
Regards, Kay
So you are saying an un-ported manifold out performed a manifold with ported flanges while all things were kept equal? What was the rest of your engine setup?
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:42 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
But what if I want more.
Money, goal, time, knowledge, what do you have?
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:06 PM   #33
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And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench.
Regards, Kay
I want to hear more from you, what is your theory

Addendum - I have the 3" angled hotside and 3" exhaust all the way from downpipe, all made by me, so you know it's quality
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:41 PM   #34
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Look at t3 flanged gt28s or tial vbanded gt28s. Gotta pay to play, but holyfuk do they just feel good. A buddy ran mitsus for years on his Saab, most recent was a td04hl-16t (Volvo) with an angled flange off a diy t3 log manifold. Spool was great, but in 4th at 1800-2000, you’d stomp on the throttle and get a good 3 count before 18psi was reached. Swapped to a gt2871rs, with a t3>3” vband hot side and now it just feels like it’s loaded with crazy na power. I can get a 1 out before 18psi, sometimes a 2 count.
Truth. If you have a spare $1500 to spend on a turbo, a gt2871rs is the way to go.
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:50 PM   #35
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I've been really happy with my BW EFR. Super slick and tidy internal WG dual scroll with built in boost control valve and CBV.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:43 PM   #36
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I've been really happy with my BW EFR. Super slick and tidy internal WG dual scroll with built in boost control valve and CBV.
they are very nice units.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:47 PM   #37
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So you are saying an un-ported manifold out performed a manifold with ported flanges while all things were kept equal? What was the rest of your engine setup?
to a certain extent, this would be expected behavior. if all you do is hog out the area around the flange, what you're doing is creating a balloon in the middle.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:43 PM   #38
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I've been really happy with my BW EFR. Super slick and tidy internal WG dual scroll with built in boost control valve and CBV.
which one?

I was interested in these when they came out, but heard they had issues with the early production...
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:55 PM   #39
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I'm thinking more moderate budget, FAFSA can only pay for so much.
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Old Yesterday, 10:18 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
There is almost zero gain from 15G to 16T. I wouldn't waste money on it.
+1! There's what? Barely 50 to 60 CFM difference.

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When I had the 15g in, it spooled mucho quick. Should I sacrifice spool time for some HP gains?
Depends on what you want, how you want the car to drive, and what you have.

Something that's been known forever is that where the power is can make a vehicle easier to drive/ride quickly. More bottom and and mid-range means you don't have to worry about shifting as much, assuming you have a stick.

If you have an auto and you're not drag racing, a more responsive engine is always the way to go.

OTOH, you can get away with a stick and a larger turbo as you'll have more control over where you are in the rev range.

I prefer a faster spooling setup every time because where and how I like to drive. Country roads, mountain roads, that kind of 5h1t. Rather than having to focus some thought on being in the right gear with a stick, I can focus more on reading the road/situation, line choice, corner entry, and transition back to power.

If you already have a 15g, that's easily upgraded to a 18t, 19t, and even a 22t. Next step up from there if you want more power but would still like some spool (and not break the bank) would be a .48 AR Stg III or Stg V hotside T3/T4.

Yet a third option that everyone here hates is the TD05-12b. Easily built up to a 16g, 18g, and even 20g. They'll knock you because the manifold required is inferior (and it's true) but reported difference in gains was only around 10hp? Not much to worry about and easily accounted for with smart cam choice and the fact that Mitsu G wheels CRUSH those T wheels on the TD04's.

Think about what kind of driving you want to do then go from there and have fun.
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Old Yesterday, 10:22 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by megulon-7 View Post
which one?

I was interested in these when they came out, but heard they had issues with the early production...
I have a 7064, but it's on a 16V motor. Might go a little smaller on an 8V.

I do know the dual scroll internal WG version (which I have) had some initial issues with the turbine castings. They were supposed to be using investment casting (to make a more precise and lighter housing) but had troubles with quality control - too many rejected castings. There was a delay, and then they started making the version I got which has a conventionally cast housing. I guess a little heavier and not as smooth inside. Still stainless, though.

Last edited by JohnMc; Yesterday at 10:28 AM..
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Old Yesterday, 12:38 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by BDKR View Post
+1! There's what? Barely 50 to 60 CFM difference.
Less.


http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm


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Old Yesterday, 01:52 PM   #43
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Less.
Thanx for the memory refresh dude! 7 CFM ain't 5hit!
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Old Yesterday, 02:03 PM   #44
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If you already have a 15g, that's easily upgraded to a 18t, 19t, and even a 22t.
A 16t chra would be a better starting off point. A 15g would require machining of the chra which isn't cheap. With a 16t chra, you could easily upgrade to an 18t or even to a 19t with conversion wheel(which won't require machining of chra). The 19t conversion wheel is available from ARD or Kinugawa. If you did go to a 22t, that would require machining of the chra.
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Old Yesterday, 02:44 PM   #45
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A 16t chra would be a better starting off point. A 15g would require machining of the chra which isn't cheap. With a 16t chra, you could easily upgrade to an 18t or even to a 19t with conversion wheel(which won't require machining of chra). The 19t conversion wheel is available from ARD or Kinugawa. If you did go to a 22t, that would require machining of the chra.
That's true!

When I said upgrade, I was talking about buying CHRA, wheels, and compressor housing. Something like...



http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...monster-1.aspx

I'll be more clear in the future.
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