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Old 02-04-2018, 11:28 PM   #26
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I guess I was sleeping. I thought it was stock. Statement retracted
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:21 PM   #27
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UPDATE:
Went over, compression was 125ish on all. No bent valves. But I still dont know what caused it to slip off. SO here are the things I replaced.
Cam,
Timing Belt,
Tensioner Pully.
Also the wear marks are not lining up with the belt on my cam gear, is there a spacer for behind the gear?
There was oil coating the belt too from a leak that I caused and just fixed.
Could any of that be the problem?
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegoldbrick View Post
UPDATE:
Went over, compression was 125ish on all. No bent valves. But I still dont know what caused it to slip off. SO here are the things I replaced.
Cam,
Timing Belt,
Tensioner Pully.
Also the wear marks are not lining up with the belt on my cam gear, is there a spacer for behind the gear?
There was oil coating the belt too from a leak that I caused and just fixed.
Could any of that be the problem?
I think spacers were only on the earlier engines? None of the 88-93 b230s Iíve taken apart have used a spacer. Sounds like youíre out of time or missing something obvious
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:17 PM   #29
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Would oil cause it to move enough to fall off
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:49 PM   #30
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Would oil cause it to move enough to fall off
Idk, but oil isnít supposed to be on that side of the engine..I know that much
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:29 PM   #31
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No. Oil on the belt did not cause it to come off. I have encountered plenty of Volvo B21/23/230 engines with leaking cam seals where the belt was saturated, yet, it stayed aligned on the sprockets. What you probably have going on is a tensioner roller that is running at a slight angle.

Last edited by 2manyturbos; 02-08-2018 at 01:13 PM..
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Old 02-08-2018, 01:34 AM   #32
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Also worth mentioning there should be 2 washers at the crank gear, correct?
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Old 02-08-2018, 02:10 AM   #33
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Quote:
Also worth mentioning there should be 2 washers at the crank gear, correct?
The crankshaft gear fits with a keyway and has a dome shaped washer in front, then the balancer, then a big metal washer, then the big bolt that should be torqued correctly but usually just gets two or three grunts worth from the breaker bar.

I'm pretty sure the cam gear uses a spacer behind it. I've installed it before without it on accident and noticed immediately that there was gear showing. The belt should cover the gear entirely. But I have an adjustable gear so maybe this needs one but the original doesn't.

Check the tensioner like was said. I've had issues trying to get that sh*t flat on the block, but then again, I'm not the smartest.
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Old 02-08-2018, 02:12 AM   #34
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^ like I said it’s 2 large thin washers that help center the belt.
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Old 02-08-2018, 02:18 AM   #35
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I don't see why that would cause the belt to slip though. flat pulleys usually have the crown in the center to help the belt stay centered. Do the gears have a crown? Don't confuse my question as a stab.

I might be wrong but I feel the tensioner is doing most of the work keeping the belt on. If the gear is off 1/16". it'll probably wear out quicker, but it should run.
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:09 AM   #36
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do you still have the large cone shaped shiv on the bottom
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:41 AM   #37
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How is the spring in the tensioner? I read you replaced the pulley only. How does the rest of the tensioner assembly look?
You can check pulley alignment with a straightedge. If you lay it across the faces of 2 of the pulleys, it should touch both edges of both pulleys if everything is in line.
My guess is the belt came off because it was under tensioned. Or there is a burr or something behind the cam pulley inducing runout.
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Old 02-08-2018, 01:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
I don't see why that would cause the belt to slip though. flat pulleys usually have the crown in the center to help the belt stay centered. Do the gears have a crown? Don't confuse my question as a stab.

I might be wrong but I feel the tensioner is doing most of the work keeping the belt on. If the gear is off 1/16". it'll probably wear out quicker, but it should run.
Ah Nevermind I was thinking that belt slipped *off* the gears, not jumped time. My apologies. I agree that if not tensioned properly, it will probably easily slip time.

I have a cheap tensioner on the wagon right now I think, and every time I loosen the tensioner nut, the tensioner bends outwards. Cheap piece of crap. I thought I bought the INA too which I heard was better.
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:11 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Ah Nevermind I was thinking that belt slipped *off* the gears, not jumped time. My apologies. I agree that if not tensioned properly, it will probably easily slip time.

I have a cheap tensioner on the wagon right now I think, and every time I loosen the tensioner nut, the tensioner bends outwards. Cheap piece of crap. I thought I bought the INA too which I heard was better.
Sorry I should have explained better. It slipped off completely.
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:14 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegoldbrick View Post
Sorry I should have explained better. It slipped off completely.
That's the way I was interpreting what you were saying. That usually has to do with the tensioner running at a slight anle. I had a brand new tensioner that caused the belt to want to move forward on the cam gear immediately. I still have to send it back to FCP Euro. They don't carry that brand anymore. I'll bet I didn't get the only one that did that.
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:43 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
That's the way I was interpreting what you were saying. That usually has to do with the tensioner running at a slight anle. I had a brand new tensioner that caused the belt to want to move forward on the cam gear immediately. I still have to send it back to FCP Euro. They don't carry that brand anymore. I'll bet I didn't get the only one that did that.
OP stated he replaced tensioner pulley. Some places sell just the pulley/bearing for the tensioner. If the tensioner frame is bent, shaft worn, pulley on crooked, or if there is dirt/stuff between it and the block, this could also cause it to throw a belt.
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Old 02-08-2018, 08:20 PM   #42
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I caught that. He replaced the tensioner and the belt came off. It stayed on before that. Alignment of the crank didn't change. Alignment of the cam didn't change. Something has to be out of alignment, otherwise the belt would stay were it belongs. I've seen belts so loose they are ready to skip timing stay in place. I've seen belts you could literally wring the oil out of them stay in place. The tensioner is the critical player in this system. I suggest putting it back together and running it with the cam sprocket cover off. I always run them like that before closing everything up. I've seen too many covers eaten through by belts that are trying to come off due to misalignment.
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Old 02-09-2018, 04:50 PM   #43
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Another update. Belt is staying on, but there’s a new problem. Oil is pouring out the motor. It is running up the timing belt and spraying al over. Crank seal?
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:30 PM   #44
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I would advise looking at it yourself. Clean it up and run it if you can't immediately find it. The crankshaft has a cover with a gasket, and the intermediate shaft has a seal, the crank has a seal. Trace it back
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Old 02-09-2018, 11:54 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegoldbrick View Post
Another update. Belt is staying on, but thereís a new problem. Oil is pouring out the motor. It is running up the timing belt and spraying al over. Crank seal?



Front crank seal, intermediate shaft seal or the seal housing.
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Old 02-10-2018, 12:06 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
I would advise looking at it yourself. Clean it up and run it if you can't immediately find it. The crankshaft has a cover with a gasket, and the intermediate shaft has a seal, the crank has a seal. Trace it back
Don't run it if its puking oil out the front. There may be other areas at the back of engine starving for oil due to the pressure drop.
Seals are cheap. If one is gone, the rest are probably not that good either. Order seals for cam, aux, crank and everything and do them all. Its only a bit more time and you will know the front of the engine is good seal wise. 'Timing belt time' is 'seal and waterpump time' for me. Its one of those "While I'm in there things".
Same as doing the rear main when you do a clutch.
There is nothing more discouraging than having a rear main go when you first start it after putting the car back together after a clutch swap. Happened to me in an old 78 dodge pickup once. My ex had the rear main go maybe 30 kms after a backyard mechanic "installed" a "remanufactured" engine... I think pressurewashing is a reman in his world...
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:03 PM   #47
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Just installed the aux and crank seals. Fixed the oil leak.

Moral of the story for me is replace all the seals you get with the kit
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:17 PM   #48
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Also ask yourself why the seals failed. Is your PCV system in good shape?
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:43 PM   #49
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No one of the connectors broke but that’s in the mail today so it’s just venting to atmosphere
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