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Old 05-01-2017, 09:04 AM   #26
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Realy nice project!
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Old 05-01-2017, 02:02 PM   #27
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I'm so glad you're still working on this. I have too many projects and I know how life goes. It's really easy to forget about cars lol
Sigh, this is true . Oh well, they'll all be running eventually. That Supra in the background has been waiting on a clutch for like 2 years now.

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Realy nice project!
Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:48 AM   #28
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More small updates.

While there isn't much huge rust in the car, there are several small holes in the fenders etc. that I'm addressing.



I sanded down the green tailgate for a quick and dirty coat of white paint also. It doesn't have to be great, when the thing is painted I'm going to use the blue tailgate that I showed earlier in the thread. You never know what you're going to find though..this green one appeared to be free of filler, but after sanding I found where it used to have an overdrive badge.



Here it is all one color, I used Duplicolor universal white in a rattle can. I think it matches decent for what I'm going for here.



Next up is quarter work, I have to fill this nasty hole I found under the drivers rear window at the same time. I'll just section it out of the green car and weld it in.



I also found this in the car, I think its appropriate. Progress is being made I swear.


Last edited by stick70; 08-07-2017 at 07:47 PM..
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Old 08-07-2017, 08:22 PM   #29
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Bump! I fixed most of the image links in this thread so it's actually worth looking at again.

I've been at work on the car doing a fair amount of sheet metal work when I have time. I fixed the hole in the drivers rear window, and I've got the drivers quarter panel cut out and tacked up. There was some crash damage in the substructure that I had to take care of first but it wasn't bad at all.





I've also pulled the fuel tank out and started fitting my baffles and fuel pump sending unit. I'm using a fuel pump hanger out of a 1992 Honda Civic. I got the idea from some old dudes on a Cadillac forum, apparently their fuel tanks are super shallow like mine is. Bonus, the Honda unit only costs like $80. I threw an Aeromotive stealth pump on there, and it'll be finished with a couple of bulkhead AN fittings and a fuel cell rollover valve for the vent.



That ring I cut out on a waterjet machine, I'll just use a simple gasket to seal it all up. Here's a couple of shots to show the baffling and the pump position.




The sock sits pretty much dead nuts center in the fuel tank. The ribbing in the bottom of the tank will allow the fuel to travel up and into the baffle.



I've since welded the mounting flange in the tank, and it has studs pressed into it to allow for easy mounting. After I get all of the dents out of the bottom of this thing I'll clean and seal it with a POR fuel tank sealer kit. That'll take care of any pin holes from rust or welding as well.

I've been putting my shop 2x4 to use as well. The front end of this thing was bashed in a solid 2 inches before. I actually managed to hammer on it enough to get the grilles and hood to line up half ass decent.



I've almost got all the stuff I need to sit the engine in the bay and see what all I need to cut in the trans tunnel area. I've got a rusty p1800ES on standby that will serve as a donor for a new tunnel to accomidate the T5 trans.

Last edited by stick70; 08-07-2017 at 08:28 PM..
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:30 AM   #30
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Nice progress man
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:47 PM   #31
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Nice progress man
Thanks! There's been more lately.

I got the other quarter on but I'm working on making a panel for it, so it hasn't been put back on yet. I had to cut quite a bit bigger of a section out of it to get all the crash damage.


I finally pulled my engine out of the barn and got started on the engine swap as well. It's dirty as all hell but it was all sealed and is awesome looking on the inside. The barn has a dirt floor .


Threw that in this weekend, and I've been working on getting the tunnel cut up and everything massaged to fit.


There's plenty of room on the exhaust side, but as with other's 122 whiteblock swaps, accessory room is limited. I doubt I'm going to be thinking about the possibility of air conditioning anymore. Intake room is great though, I'm still going to run ITBs. I'm moving the master cylinders inside the car to give me more room for runners and air filter.



Another reason I'm swapping in different pedals is that the bellhousing is going to occupy a lot of the space that the throttle used to...and it's damn close to the heater box as well.




I've got both a p1800es and a 244 I can cut the tunnels out of, so I'll see what works best there.

Tonight I got the trans in position so I could check out shifter position. I was really worried it would be horrible and I'd have to try and move the engine farther forward but it actually looks like it will work out nicely.



I'm motivated now and things are finally starting to move along.
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:09 PM   #32
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looks good!
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SVEA - PUSHROD TURBO!
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:34 PM   #33
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so jelly
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Old 09-07-2017, 04:23 AM   #34
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Hnnggggg
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I lube my fixie chain with synthetic nose grease derived from the DNA of a philosopher you probably never heard of. He's pretty obscure.
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build thread; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=251729
'92 244. 601 red, stock, awesome.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292524
'92 245. 601 red, stock, awesome.
'90 244. blue, tall, ghetto, fabulous.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310740
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Old 09-07-2017, 07:31 AM   #35
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Nice work!
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Old 09-15-2017, 12:59 AM   #36
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Awesome. Keep it up!
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Old 09-15-2017, 02:54 PM   #37
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Watching both 5 cyl swaps as I am considering this for my P1800
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:02 PM   #38
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Thanks guys!

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Watching both 5 cyl swaps as I am considering this for my P1800
I actually just got done cutting a tunnel out of a P1800ES for this car. The bell housing doesn't fit in the tunnel but the trans fits no problem.

I'll try and get some more pictures up soon. I'm fitting pedals now and gauging where the tunnel is gonna sit. Also fitting the radiator, engine mounts, and pulling the rear out of the aforementioned ES. I've got a triangulated 4-link kit on the way for that.
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:47 PM   #39
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Following cant wait to see its transformation!
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:00 PM   #40
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In progress update but an update none the less.

I don't have any pictures of the actual rear end I used but you can use your imagination. Plus it's nasty still. It came out of this though:
Behold, the worlds nastiest 1800ES.







I got the tunnel out of it too. Part of me felt bad, but this thing is seriously rusty. Plus there isn't much left on it, it's been a parts car for a long ass time. Low miles though at 87k.

Here's the 4-link kit I bought for it:



It wasn't cheap, but this was one of the only ones I found that had rubber bushings instead of heim joints. Ridetech makes it. I really like the triangulated ones so I can run really tight fender clearance. The shocks will mount behind the rear end where the springs were on the factory trailing arms.

I ordered a set of these as well:



They're made by U.S. Wheel, 16x7 et12, 4x4.5. I'll end up with spacers in the front and adapters in the rear but whatever, it'll be fine. Plus they are only like $130 each. I'm planning on a 205-45-16 tire. The only downside is the damn things are back ordered from the manufacturer, so the 4-link install will have to wait.

The radiator has also been in progress. I ended up with a Griffin radiator that I shamelessly stole from lloyddobler who shamelessly stole it from andrewnance. I really didn't want to make a radiator and this is the best size one you can find on summit.



And it don't fit bad. I am going to seal the front of it with some steel sheet. I made a first piece but my angles were wrong so I don't have much to show other than the template.



Worked on sorting out the pedal position also. I bought a Tilton forged aluminum pedal set. They will move the master cylinders inside the car, and also use a balance bar so I can adjust bias F->R. Still not sure on front brake direction, but the rears will be stock 1800 stuff. Nice doesn't even get close to the quality on these things. The pedals themselves are adjustable in X and Y axes plus the base is adjustable for stroke. I chose them over the wilwoods for that reason. Plus wilwood doesn't offer an accelerator pedal.



The frame will be triangulated from above, they're just chillin' for right now until the tunnel is welded. The firewall is re-enforced with 3/16" plate.



I've been brainstorming an alternator situation also. A lot of the hot rod guys on the interwebz talk of the small size of the Denso style alternators, and I wanted something around 100A since I plan to have this thing on air suspension. I ended up with a '98 Jeep Cherokee unit, and it fits awesome. The Volvo one would only wedge in place, this leaves room for belt adjustment. Just look at the difference in size. An added bonus is the pulley will take the same size belt as the harmonic balancer, there was some serious internet picture scrutiny involved there.





Tonight's work revolved around the driver's side engine mount. It will be incorporated into the alternator mount also, as lloyddubler did. I'm making it out of the same 3/16" plate I used on the firewall. It's a bit long in the front as I don't know the alternator's final spot, but I can cut that later. I'm using 240 passenger side mounts mounted level with the chassis. They'll sit just forward of the cross member similar to how the stock 122 ones are.



Hopefully tomorrow night I can tack it together and get it in it's final position. Right now mounting the engine, trans, and rear are the priorities. Everything else is just making room around them.

Last edited by stick70; 09-20-2017 at 11:06 PM..
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:17 PM   #41
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That pedal set up is nice
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:08 PM   #42
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Just curious: what will you do for steering and front suspension ? Can a stock 122 engine sufbrame handle a 5 cylinder gracefully ? Or can you use a Mustang 2 front end (modified to fit) ?

Nice work, I like that you're going all out on this thing.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:13 PM   #43
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That pedal set up is nice
Man I really dig it. I was worried about the steering column room but it worked out ok. Not to say is isn't tight, because it definitely is. I wanted a floor mount set to begin with, but its just not worth the work it would take to get it in there right.

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Just curious: what will you do for steering and front suspension ? Can a stock 122 engine sufbrame handle a 5 cylinder gracefully ? Or can you use a Mustang 2 front end (modified to fit) ?

Nice work, I like that you're going all out on this thing.
Thanks!

I'm kind of just hoping for the best honestly with the stock stuff . I looked into the mustang 2 front end but its really out of my realm of possibility right now. I've got a few steering boxes to choose from and I'm just going to re-bush as necessary. I thought about doing a steering rack, but I haven't ventured down that road. Honestly if I ditched the steering box it would open enough accessory room for an air conditioning compressor...that would be sweet.

Suspension wise I'm looking into the bag over strut setups currently. I really only expect like 200 hp out of this thing, so I think the 122 frame and box will handle it well enough with new components. The center line of the engine sits just behind the cross member, and it doesn't weigh an absurd amount, so it's fine?
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:25 AM   #44
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nice project
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:25 PM   #45
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Cool Andrew, that's awesome. I've looked at the bags over strut set ups before, I'll be curious to see what you come up with. Seems like the best of both worlds.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:18 PM   #46
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Got a little bit done this weekend. I started by putting new bands in the front seats. I was worried about doing this but it was really really easy. The backs were a little more difficult because you have to remove the upholstery but it really wasn't that bad. I thought about using elastic since VP lists the bands for so much, but I was able to find Pirelli rubber bands by the foot on ebay for a reasonable price.



One thing to note, the bottoms are 2" wide bands, but the backs are 1.5" wide. I wasn't able to find the smaller stuff, so I just cut the 2" to size with a razor blade and it worked out well. I still want to install some headrests I have but that'll have to wait for another day. The seats are really comfortable now, I don't think I've ever sat in one that wasn't sagging.



I worked on the radiator fitment a little too. I cut the upper support to fit, its about 90% there now. I also installed the flex-a-lite fan made for the scirocco style radiators, it worked out really nice.





I started getting the rear cleaned up and placed for the 4-link also. It took forever to get the brackets off, but I did it. I'll have to get different gears though, this p1800 rear was out of a manual car, and they have a 4.30 rear gear.





Worked on setting the ride height too. My wheels still have not come in, but I found a FWD wheel lying around that was the right diameter. This isn't going to be the rolling height, but when the car is parked it'll more or less sit there.





I'm happy with it, and that's a good thing because the rear hits the frame rails, and the trunk floor. It'll be fine with some bump stops, driving height will be a solid 2-3" higher.



I had to cut the floor under the seat some just to get it that close. The wagons have plenty of room there luckily, so I don't think it'll be too big of a deal.



Hopefully the next step is welding in the 4-link. I have to make frame brackets for the lower trailing arms but I think the rest will work aside from some arm shortening.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:23 PM   #47
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Talk about laying frame....
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:24 PM   #48
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The cross member will sit on the ground

The wheels came in today so I threw one on the front. It's going to need a hefty spacer, but I'm super happy with them. The rears I'm almost positive I'll have to flare the arches to get them to clear, but I won't know until I order a couple of adaptors. I'll try and get that rolling.

The quality isn't phenomenal, as in there are some paint flaws etc. But honestly to be going on this car and only costing ~$130 each I really couldn't care less.





Also as a side note these things are heavy as ****.
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:24 PM   #49
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what do they weigh ? I really like the polished lip over the white face.
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Old 10-07-2017, 02:05 PM   #50
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Thanks! I'm really happy with them. The white center is a little 60s-70s throwback, which fits great with the image I'm going after on the car. As far weight, the trusty bathroom scale says 30 lbs. Pretty hefty for a 16.
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