My air intake box was in bad shape, typical of the 7/9's. Most of the snap-spring latches had snapped off....that 20 year old plastic hinge point fails, and many times a small chunk of plastic is gone. Well having considered a cone filter, but from research and inspection, the Volvo unit actually looks very well done by the Swedes if you study the airflow....and web legend says it will support maybe 300 HP, so I decided to clean, repair, reuse. Found a nice writeup on the BB 7/9 pages (sounding like a broken record, but MANY good tips and advice to be found there) about how to retrofit some McMaster-Carr spring latches. I bought these, less than $5 a piece shipped to my door:
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Then got out my old school Craftsman rivet tool, 1/8" rivets, and measured carefully to determine WHERE I wanted to attach these new clips. Actually I cheated..I had an old junk air box since I had 2 cars, so I guessed the location and test drilled, verified the amount of squeeze that I wanted. Remember to test "squeeze" with a filter installed, or you will be TOO TIGHT. By the 3rd trial I had it nailed (don't ask me how far, but these pics will give you an idea). Here is the first hinge spring clip installed:
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If you look close, you will see some small washers under the rivet; actually outside and inside the airbox. When I tested my junk box, the first rivet pulled right through the plastic before the center snapped off. The plastic is TOO weak to carry the stress under the head of the rivet. To enable a proper squeeze, I put small washers on both sides of the 1/4 inch rivet.....take yours to the washer bin, and find some (think mine were 3mm, but not sure). Then I synched down the rivet with my rivet gun, but DID NOT break off the shank. Instead, when I had the proper clamp and squeeze on the box, I took my dremel and cutoff wheel and sawed off the rivet shank. Finished units installed, like this:
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All new spring latches installed, and the finished air box installed. Look pretty good, and work "better than new"
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With the finished intake air box installed, it was time to complete the intake piping and hot side IC piping. All my pieces cleaned up (OCD
) and then put into position. Amazingly, all pipes which came off the Mitsu turbo, lined right up with the Garrett T3; obviously they are dimensionally "very close" for interconnection piping and the downpipe as well. Here are a couple shots of the induction to the Turbo:
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The suction hose from the AMM to the compressor inlet aligned perfect, no issues again. Here you see it:
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While I was rolling, I went ahead and followed the flow to the cold side of the IC. All my hardpipes and hoses cleaned up, clamps oriented, I installed the cold side system between the IC exit and the TPS inlet to the intake. You can also see here my new top radiator hose (NAPA or Volvo, skip the cheap junk hoses, they will break your heart). Howsabout those brand new ABA hose clamps with that shiny blue paint?
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Now that the induction system piping, from airbox to intake manifold was complete, I next installed the oil breather hose. This connects the redblock crankcase breather to the turbo inlet hose, recycling those "blow by gases & oil" from the B230. Reused the old hose, bought a new 45* fitting (Volvo) off eBay, and "repurposed" one of those Volvo wiring harness tie-down straps to hold this hose, like this:
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The 7/9 apparently use a 12V solenoid valve to open/close this oil fume passage....just reconnected the factory parts.
Last for this installment, the fine details on the intake side vacuum hoses. I used the "one way" check valves to keep BOOST from feeding back into everything, except of course, the BOOST gauge line. If you like close, you will see the small check valve on the braided line which draws from the breather box when idling:
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Hooking up the spools for the throttle cable, AW71, and cruise control, I relied completely on info. from my Bentley manual and the rest from the BB 7/9 pages. I found that the ball-joint swivel link was badly misadjusted by some previous hack....I could not get my AW71 kickdown cable to install per specs; had to readjust this ball link, and everything was fine on the kickdown cable....just like the Swedes designed it!