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Old 08-22-2013, 08:37 PM   #51
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Good to see all the progress on this wagon, really coming together. I have been trying to figure out a way to install my Bentley Map lights without cutting or putting holes in anything.....not working in my favor yet, but I am glad to see them installed in your car. They are easy to hook up right, one wire goes to fuse panel and the other is a ground, right?
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:20 PM   #52
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Good to see all the progress on this wagon, really coming together. I have been trying to figure out a way to install my Bentley Map lights without cutting or putting holes in anything.....not working in my favor yet, but I am glad to see them installed in your car. They are easy to hook up right, one wire goes to fuse panel and the other is a ground, right?
yeah the front I had to run a ground wire because plastic was to be in the way but the rear one grounds itself on the c pillar ( no ground wire needed) I ran both lamps on the same '+.' Spliced them together so I would have one less wire behind the dash to deal with

just mount it already, they are small holes (unless you break the crappy b pillar trim) that will have that lamp mounted "forever"

still undecided if I want them live all the time like the dome light or power from key on.
- I dont want to turn key on when ie camping but at the same time I dont want to forget to leave a light on.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:44 AM   #53
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small update:

I had to reflow some solder joints in my radio. Driver side front speaker would go in and out and then the passenger side finally stopped working (after 3 months)
This is very common on other volvo radios. It's a pain to get to this part since you have to unsolder a bunch of wires and take just about every circuit board out. So don't trow your old radio just fix it
bonus: inside the radio I found the missing "LO/DX" button that was gone since before I found it at a yard



I have to go and pick up a nice b230 head from a local JY since 122power wants to horde his b230 head
2 of my exhaust studs broke off in cylinder #4 and I failed at pulling them out while on the car.
I dont want the car down so I will drive like this until this head comes back from machine shop.
I will probably port it a bit also and install the "m" cam (if thats the correct name of it)

No need to swap in the 58k engine because this one runs fine and burns no oil at 280k

pictures of installed efan and a stupid cone filter to fallow.
I installed a cone filter in preparation of installing 240 turbo oil cooler. The NA box is in the way and this filter was $3
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:05 PM   #54
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I got a "new" head from a 91 940 b230ft 180k mile engine
I have some questions about rebuilding it here




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Old 09-30-2013, 05:38 PM   #55
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I'd leave the T cam in there for the low down grunt.

Where most of these engines work 99% of the time.

An M is definitely a step backwards in every way.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock can support?

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Old 09-30-2013, 05:45 PM   #56
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i meant to say B cam
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:49 PM   #57
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i meant to say B cam
Kind of a waste of time for an auto imo, but OK for a stick.

I mean what are you going to do, hammer on the gas while you hold the shifter down, and waste a bunch of gas?

It's still a pos slushbox...
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:02 PM   #58
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^see page 2 toward the bottom (with your glasses on)
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:58 PM   #59
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Yep.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:59 PM   #60
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^see page 2 toward the bottom (with your glasses on)


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Yep.
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:42 PM   #61
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dropped of a different head (since this was junk) at the machine shop yesterday. Guy will let me know what's up with it within 7 days

last night I switched out my clutch cable weight thing at the transmission
one on the right is what I had on (standard car)
one on the left is what I put on (tubo car)


also removed these heat shields because they would rattle - early cars didnt even have them
I tried welding them on the the exhaust pipe before but they were were still super noisy so I just decided to cut them out

Last edited by Jack; 10-03-2013 at 02:03 PM..
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:54 AM   #62
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I always cut them off if they rattle, plus I think they make the tubes too hot and possibly crack. My 242 had it.
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:39 PM   #63
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I always cut them off if they rattle, plus I think they make the tubes too hot and possibly crack. My 242 had it.
I dont think I ever seen them on the older cars. My 83 58k mile car didnt have it on...
I also have to take off the shield that bends - that one is still rattling

Late model power steering pump installed. I had to reuse the old "low pressure" since the "new" style didnt fit on my zf rack


installed 960 efan with saab temp sensor (from radiator) installed in a Saab fitting
for high speed I installed a radiator push in sensor from a 740.
you can also see how I routed the wiring. High speed sensor ground need to be rerouted
note: that's the temp air filter


Last edited by Jack; 10-08-2013 at 04:59 PM..
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:51 PM   #64
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My 84 242 has it so maybe 84' and up?
Nice work.
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:01 PM   #65
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Thanks Luke,
84 and up would make sense. Is your 84 b230?

the 83 pipe is the same length but does not line up where the exhaust hanger from the engine block goes into - that hole is off by an inch or so. I tried to swap it over once before so I wouldn't have to cut off those shields.
If I was smarter I would have cut them off when it was off the car

I am yet to see the high speed come on. It hasn't been warm enough for that to happen. The low speed fan also hardly comes on. Temp gauge is always slightly below 9 o'clock. When it does it's only for 30 seconds or so, but I can feel it pull air when standing in front of the grille. I can't really tell any noise reductions since my exhaust leak is so f... loud

Last edited by Jack; 10-09-2013 at 08:03 PM..
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:48 AM   #66
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84 was B23, 2nd and and last year of B23. My wifes 87 245 also has that dumb heat shield though and its a b230.
Most guys say to put the temp sensor in the bottom hose, its in the fan conversion thread, in the vault section. Get some bolts off of a 7 or 9 series if you don't want those studs sticking out of the water pump pulley.
I like the later style power steering pump-integral reservoir, I need to get one someday.
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Old 10-10-2013, 02:00 AM   #67
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Get some bolts off of a 7 or 9 series if you don't want those studs sticking out of the water pump pulley.
Plan is to shave them and install the valve cover acorn nuts instead

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I like the later style power steering pump-integral reservoir, I need to get one someday.
I have several low mileage ps (early) pumps but this one cleans up the engine bay - every little bit helps.

That sensor will end up in the lower hose when I swap the heads.
before I installed it I tried searching for it for a few min and then gave up looking.
Later found I should have installed it in the lower hose. That damn thread is way too damn long.

Volvo installed theirs in the lower hose also

as far as updates go - heard from the machine shop. Guy says he needs to shave 13 thousandths off and its go go go
took off last part of the heat shield
went in to install my oil pressure sensor adapter (14m to npt whatever it is) Head broke off.... luckily I was able to reverse it out, now I need another one. No picture of this because I kicked it into the alley

Friday I have GT upper braces coming in via TB. I finally gave up and bought a used set since I haven't been able to find any at the yards
I don't know why I'm getting excited about them - I probably wont feel any difference

and since everyone likes pictures....

Last edited by Jack; 10-10-2013 at 02:13 AM..
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:29 AM   #68
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I hate those stupid heat shields. Sweet ride too.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:09 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraktion View Post
I hate those stupid heat shields. Sweet ride too.
Thank you
Im still hunting the rattle - driving me a little crazy
today I removed - partially loose hallow cat shield and the rattle is still there.....


Replaced brake master and booster. My wife told me that a couple of times the brake would go to the floor and "brake failure" light would go on. Im sure it was the master but I decided to replace both and paint them black. Came out the 58k yellow


I also installed Turbo rain gutters since my original ones were gone.

I also
- Finally hooked up my "economy" gauge
- rewired the volt gauge. Instead of running + from a fuse box I had it spliced in behind a dash from some random 12v but every time the turn signals would come on the voltage would drop from 13v to 10v. Now its how it should be + from #13 fuse.
- hooked up manual clutch cruise control switch
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #70
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On your brake fluid check that sensor down on the proportion valve. Mine was loose for some reason and the fluid all leaked out.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:57 PM   #71
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The valve with the sensor is a splitter/brake failure warning valve, not the proportioning valve. Brake fluid should not leak out of the sensor switch. If it does, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:03 PM   #72
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That's right its back in front of the rear axle. Just tightened it and it worked fine so it wasn't bad.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:04 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack8745 View Post
- Finally hooked up my "economy" gauge
How did you do this?
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:17 AM   #74
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Quote:
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How did you do this?

ran a T fitting from the mani (has to be behind the throttle body)
connected it to old pcv plastic tube that goes through the firewall
inside I ran a silicone vacuum tube to the gauge.

here are instructions just in case
http://www.240.se/install/3-38-11.pdf

and here is a picture pretty in pink



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On your brake fluid check that sensor down on the proportion valve. Mine was loose for some reason and the fluid all leaked out.
wife trying to dispose of you and collect the insurance

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The valve with the sensor is a splitter/brake failure warning valve, not the proportioning valve. Brake fluid should not leak out of the sensor switch. If it does, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.
no trouble from this..................................yet
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:27 AM   #75
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Thank you! I've had that gauge in my dash for a couple of years, not hooked up.
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