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Old 10-26-2012, 01:49 PM   #51
slow240
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yes. it is.
because i said so....
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'81 242t, DD, project, epic funmobile.
build thread; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=251729
'92 244. 601 red, stock, awesome.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292524
'92 245. 601 red, b230ft/aw71, 16t.
'90 244. blue, tall, ghetto, fabulous.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310740
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:08 PM   #52
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I'm afraid it's not gonna be there. I still have a healthy oil leak to sort out. I probably would have been able to get it ready if we hadn't had a week of rain like two weeks ago. Just bad timing I guess. It will be at the next meet for sure.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:43 AM   #53
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Holy crap that looks good.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:36 PM   #54
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ill park mine right here as well ;)
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:23 AM   #55
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Very nice indeed.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:27 PM   #56
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i have amazon/2 door/slammed/rimp envy now.
Yeah you and me both ....

I would do awful things for and to that car.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:36 PM   #57
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What bolt pattern wheels are those? And are you running adapters, or did you find the correct size/offset/pattern to work on the 67 hubs?

Looks bitchin man. Very cool slammed stance.
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:22 PM   #58
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5x4.5. No adapters. Stock Amazon bolt pattern. They bolt right up but you have to take the dust caps off of the front and the rears won't work without rolling the fenders and then you'll definitely need an adjustable panhard to go that low. It's not a lot of work.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:33 PM   #59
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I have had to put a spacer on the front of my Amazon when I was running the Ford Wheels, and that allowed me to run the caps, along with get the front fender well filled out.. I think the front wheels look so much better, when they arent sunk way in the body work like they typically do on these cars.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:37 PM   #60
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Yeah I'm happy I went with pretty much the max offset that will work on it with it that low. It could come out if I stretched some tire but that's not really my thing, or if I raised the car back up a little. I wanted a nice beefy tire which is why I went with an all-season and a 50 sidewall. I bet they would clear the dust caps with ~2-3mm of spacing. They just baaaarely don't fit behind the front wheels with the center caps in them.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:48 PM   #61
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Yeah I'm happy I went with pretty much the max offset that will work on it with it that low. It could come out if I stretched some tire but that's not really my thing, or if I raised the car back up a little. I wanted a nice beefy tire which is why I went with an all-season and a 50 sidewall. I bet they would clear the dust caps with ~2-3mm of spacing. They just baaaarely don't fit behind the front wheels with the center caps in them.
Dust caps are nice.. LOL
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:13 AM   #62
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Hey, man. LOVE the build thread.
I might be trading my 88 240 DL Sedan for a 66 4 door 122s with a rebuilt 1978 b20 engine, a swapped chassis and transmission (didn't specify) good interior, new seats, clean dash, lowered on ipd springs, stock rims but it needs a paint job.
So, i'm wondering, does anyone here think a 4 door has anywhere near the potential of looking as good as a 2 door?
Hahaa, that's the only thing i'm nervous about with this trade
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:30 AM   #63
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I wouldn't have a problem with a 4-door although the 2-doors and wagons seem to be held in higher regard and I also prefer them. Sounds like it is a pretty clean car though. Probably worth taking a look at. I'm sure it's worth more than an '88 244

Except they didn't make B20 engines in 1978 so you might have gotten some incorrect information there. Is there a link to the car somewhere?
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:16 PM   #64
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I wouldn't have a problem with a 4-door although the 2-doors and wagons seem to be held in higher regard and I also prefer them. Sounds like it is a pretty clean car though. Probably worth taking a look at. I'm sure it's worth more than an '88 244

Except they didn't make B20 engines in 1978 so you might have gotten some incorrect information there. Is there a link to the car somewhere?
I think it is too, he's selling it cheap, 1,600

And yeah, man. as long as no one else jumps on it. Haha. I'll PM you.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:11 PM   #65
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Mini update.

It's been raining like every three days so I haven't been able to do much. Then it quit raining for a week so this happened:



Then I cleaned up the bay and painted it.



Then I painted my block.



Just say no to K-jet.



Hopefully I get the motor back together this week. Header comes back from ceramic coating next week and I can have an exhaust put together.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:22 PM   #66
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Very nice work. Always good to see someone making progress. Hopefully I can find some motivation.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:39 PM   #67
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Very nice work. Always good to see someone making progress. Hopefully I can find some motivation.
+1. No I feel liek I need to get my **** together.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:16 PM   #68
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looks good man.. could i ask for a picture of how your frontsetup looks like, you know with the spring ect
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:31 PM   #69
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I can do it when I get it back on there. Right now it's on regular lowering springs so that the exhaust shop doesn't hate me when I bring it in.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:58 AM   #70
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Got my header back from ceramic coating at Jet Hot.



And I almost have a complete engine. I got the rest of my small parts on Saturday so I should have this thing finished up this week.



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Old 01-24-2013, 07:29 PM   #71
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i'm ready to hear this beast rumble! post a video as soon as you get it all together!
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:01 AM   #72
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Hopefully I get the motor back together this week. Header comes back from ceramic coating next week and I can have an exhaust put together. [/QUOTE]
I noticed before you painted the engine compartment that you still have the single circuit brake master cylinder. If you haven't already covered it, check on the second page of http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=61248 to get the info for the easy conversion to a duel circuit master cylinder. Your car is coming along great!
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:31 AM   #73
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You know I started a thread on that conversion and it didn't get a single reply.

It's something I've wanted to do. I'll check it out when I get home this afternoon. I found an adapter plate to run a 140 MC in a 122. Is there a huge difference in the later ones versus the ones available for Amazons?
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:53 AM   #74
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Default Pic of the M/C install on my 122

Unfortunately, I have purged most of the pics of my white 122 that I sold. There is a good shot here of the M/C from the archives of VCOA. It is in a post about 3/4 down on the first page.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=168678 It is a very simple and clean install. As I remember, I did have to put a stop on the clutch pedal so it did not pull the rod out of the master cylinder. The # of the M/C I used is in a previous post in this thread. Dale did a conversion on his 122 also and was very happy with it. I think he used a different size bore but it to was a Wilwood M/C used for custom installs.
PM me if you would like more specific info on the install.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:47 PM   #75
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Default New red velocity stacks

I have 4 new Volvo red velocity stacks for webers/solexes if you don't have those already
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