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Old 05-20-2015, 05:49 AM   #26
LloydDobler
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If it's complete I'm interested in it even if it doesn't work.
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:52 AM   #27
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Not a problem. I'll send you a private message tonight when I go play in the garage.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:31 AM   #28
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Love this project, dude! And that color is awesome! Looks like you do good work. Subbing.
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Old 05-20-2015, 01:02 PM   #29
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If it's complete I'm interested in it even if it doesn't work.
Sent you a PM.

Thanks,
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:11 PM   #30
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Today I tried my hand at powder coating. Didn't turn out that bad for my first time, but will make a few changes. Did the alternator bracket as my test piece.









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Old 05-28-2015, 07:19 PM   #31
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Default Painting Front Suspension Clip (POR-15)

Today I started painting the front clip with POR-15. Some strong stuff.




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Old 05-28-2015, 08:54 PM   #32
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It appears to be in good shape, good for you! Are you rolling the POR-15 or diluting it and spraying it ?
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:03 PM   #33
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Yeah. I messed up. Didn't dilute it and it destroyed my gun. Lol. So brushed on the second coat.

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Old 05-29-2015, 04:49 PM   #34
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I'm surprised it even came out to begin with! If you still have your gun, soak it in acetone for a few days, it should clean it up.

I'm replacing my subframe on the sedan in a few weeks and I think I'm going to paint it and then undercoat the underside of it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:42 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I'm surprised it even came out to begin with! If you still have your gun, soak it in acetone for a few days, it should clean it up.
if you fill the cup 1/4 way with acetone or gun cleaner, plug the cap, and pull the trigger it will back purge through the needle into the cup, dont remove the needle before doing this, you will ruin the seal and need a rebuild. Remember eye protection! I do this after every color change or between coats depending on how long I'm gonna be between sessions. I had a set of guns that I loaned out and when they came back they were completely clogged, and dry, and the filters were stuck in them. I let them soak for about 24 hrs, then filled the cups and back purged like I would normally do, and after about 5 min of bubbling all was unstuck enough to pull the needle and clean it properly. Now anytime I loan them out, the person gets a very in depth tutorial on how to clean them, and if they bring them back filthy they get to go home and try again.
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:10 PM   #36
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I spent a fortune on POR15 but I came to the verdict that it really sucks donkey nuts. Cleaned my (blasted and sanded) parts with the POR15 cleaner but still it came right off in big sheets just by peeling some off or by blowing air. A good epoxy primer is way better.
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:33 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
if you fill the cup 1/4 way with acetone or gun cleaner, plug the cap, and pull the trigger it will back purge through the needle into the cup, dont remove the needle before doing this, you will ruin the seal and need a rebuild. Remember eye protection! I do this after every color change or between coats depending on how long I'm gonna be between sessions. I had a set of guns that I loaned out and when they came back they were completely clogged, and dry, and the filters were stuck in them. I let them soak for about 24 hrs, then filled the cups and back purged like I would normally do, and after about 5 min of bubbling all was unstuck enough to pull the needle and clean it properly. Now anytime I loan them out, the person gets a very in depth tutorial on how to clean them, and if they bring them back filthy they get to go home and try again.
I Appreciate it. However, this is why I bought a cheap gun for my first. So I can learn with it and won't feel bad. Once I got it, I may invest in something better.
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:00 AM   #38
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If you are looking into a good gun, look into the Devilbiss packages on www.tcpglobal.com and look for the kits that have the DeKups system. Basically the cups are lined and theres no chance of having them leak, so you can literally shoot upside down. The single gun 2 needle starter kits are like 200.
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Old 05-30-2015, 12:06 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
If you are looking into a good gun, look into the Devilbiss packages on www.tcpglobal.com and look for the kits that have the DeKups system. Basically the cups are lined and theres no chance of having them leak, so you can literally shoot upside down. The single gun 2 needle starter kits are like 200.
Thanks again! I'll write it down so when I feel comfortable with my current one, I can upgrade. This has been a learning process with this car.
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:10 PM   #40
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Default Dismantling of B18 Engine and reassembling of Front Suspension

Got the pan off and removed the oil pump and lifters. Need to get everything out to get the block sent off.



Started putting some of the suspension for the front back together. Tried to order lowering springs, but that didn't go well. So I ordered coil overs instead. A lot of people are relocating the lower ball joint. I think people are moving it to the top of the LCA. Hopefully someone can get me some clarification.







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Old 06-01-2015, 11:06 AM   #41
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I don't have a pic of the front setup, but as I PM'd you I did not relocate my ball joints. Not even sure what the gain is there...

However, here is a pic I found of how I did the rear. Again, as I PM'd I don't know if the Combi versions have the same rear suspension setup but if they do:



Here you see I cut off the top of the 'perch' the OEM spring sits on top. This is a direct fit for the Civic coilover sets. Note: I wanted to go lower so I removed the perch entirely, and now the spring sits directly on top of the rubber which is below the perch. This means the spring is no longer adjustable as a coilover, seeing as I removed the aluminum threaded pipe and locknut as well.
No picture of that I am sorry.

Subframe looks great btw.

ps obviously the above picture was taken before I shortened the top rubber which sits in the spring as thats far too long for these springs
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:11 PM   #42
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Appreciate all the help! And thanks for the compliment. It's taken a while to prep and paint, but it's coming together.

I'll track someone down that has relocated the ball joint.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:18 PM   #43
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Default Reassembling of Front Suspension

Did some more cooking tonight.





The Bilstein shocks didn't come with poly bushings or grade 8 hardware. I did however find some from a previous project of mine. Should be able to make them work.

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Old 06-02-2015, 08:23 PM   #44
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I like the ton of powder coating! reminds me that I need to find a couple ovens to make something big enough for the entire crossmember.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:31 PM   #45
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I like the ton of powder coating! reminds me that I need to find a couple ovens to make something big enough for the entire crossmember.
I love doing it. Makes a flippen mess though. Haha. Doing it myself was way cheaper. However, I'll have to take the bigger stuff to a professional. Can't fit it in my little toaster oven. Lol.
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:58 PM   #46
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I know it's already painted, but while you have it apart you should reinforce the upper shock mount. It's notorious for flexing and cracking out, especially with harder shocks and poly bushings. Also notorious for being sharp and slicing up your bushings. On mine, I machined some thick metal bushings to seat the shocks better, then added a plate to double the thickness:



Just a suggestion.
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:45 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydDobler View Post
I know it's already painted, but while you have it apart you should reinforce the upper shock mount. It's notorious for flexing and cracking out, especially with harder shocks and poly bushings. Also notorious for being sharp and slicing up your bushings. On mine, I machined some thick metal bushings to seat the shocks better, then added a plate to double the thickness:



Just a suggestion.
Looks very sweet! Like it a lot. Front end isn't finalized, so I still may go back and do it.

Thanks,
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:24 AM   #48
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I got the honda coil overs in last night. I'm really curious as to what people are doing for the front setup to keep the spring in place and seated evenly. Any help would be great appreciated. Thanks!

UPDATE: DON'T DO IT.

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Old 06-04-2015, 05:51 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Funkee View Post
I spent a fortune on POR15 but I came to the verdict that it really sucks donkey nuts. Cleaned my (blasted and sanded) parts with the POR15 cleaner but still it came right off in big sheets just by peeling some off or by blowing air. A good epoxy primer is way better.
That's because it's a rust convertor, not paint. It needs rust to do it's thing and adhere. It's not designed to stick to a nice clean smooth surface.

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I Appreciate it. However, this is why I bought a cheap gun for my first. So I can learn with it and won't feel bad. Once I got it, I may invest in something better.
The harbor freight type cheap guns are okay to do suspension parts, small items and the like, but even a cheaper Devilbiss (like cwdodson88 mentioned) will make your life a million times better. Wastes less paint with the better spray pattern, less likely to have painting flaws (runs/etc) as a beginner because the gun paints better (atomizing and spray pattern), and they are higher quality serviceable tools that you can keep a lifetime if you take good care of it.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:58 AM   #50
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With the honda springs drill a couple holes the the perch an either zip tie or use exhaust wrap stainless ties to hold them there
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