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Old 08-18-2017, 12:07 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
The biggest improvement you can make to your NA engine is the swap to the 16 valve head. With the same fuel injection system, same compression ratio etc, they are rated at 160 HP vs. 115 HP with the 8 valve B230F. That head just flows so much more air you aren't going to come close to it with the parts you have.
I like this idea. Aside from new pistons..pretyy much bolt in?
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:27 AM   #27
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I want to put my car on the ice now
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:31 AM   #28
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I like this idea. Aside from new pistons..pretyy much bolt in?
That combstion chamber design is nice nice nice with regards to not just flow..but also det resistance.. So if a guy was going to get some pistons, and wants a car to move, well what its the measure of how a car moves?

Torque..

Haitch Pea is just torques per minute..

16v head + custom pistons for comp in the 11.3 to 11.6 range ought to be fun.

Cause with 11.3-11.6 comp a guy can get some fun profiles that do something other than wheeeze like the ****ty B234 cams do..Anemically.
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:35 AM   #29
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That combstion chamber design is nice nice nice with regards to not just flow..but also det resistance.. So if a gut was going to get some pistons, and wants a car to move, well what its the measure of how a car moves?

Torque..

Haitch Pea is just torques per minute..

16v head + custom pistons for comp in the 11.3 to 11.6 range ought to be fun.

Cause with 11.3-11.6 comp a guy can get some fun profiles that do something other than wheeeze like the ****ty B234 cams do..Anemically.
I'm googling it right now. Looks a lil more involved than I was hoping. Changing the brake booster and master cylinder, different distributor..all seems like it would take a few dozen j/y trips to get 16v specific parts and probably over a grand of cash.
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:50 AM   #30
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Time for the truth: I'm terrified to replace pistons, so I haven't even considered it. I haven't really done major engine work before, period. A cam on this motor, no problem, ain't scared, but taking apart the bottom end and dealing with rings and wrist pins and con rod bolts puts the fear of being unable to put it back together into my heart.

A 16v swap has been appealing from the start, but I think it's going to have to be a "maybe later" for now, and I don't expect to have an easy time finding a good one anyway. I may not be able to work on the car until after Labor Day, so between then and whenever the lake's frozen is how much time we'll have to get this ready to at least give the old college try. After that though, who knows!
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Old 08-18-2017, 01:12 AM   #31
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Time for the truth: I'm terrified to replace pistons, so I haven't even considered it. I haven't really done major engine work before, period. A cam on this motor, no problem, ain't scared, but taking apart the bottom end and dealing with rings and wrist pins and con rod bolts puts the fear of being unable to put it back together into my heart.

A 16v swap has been appealing from the start, but I think it's going to have to be a "maybe later" for now, and I don't expect to have an easy time finding a good one anyway. I may not be able to work on the car until after Labor Day, so between then and whenever the lake's frozen is how much time we'll have to get this ready to at least give the old college try. After that though, who knows!

There is nothing in disassembly and assembly to be terrified about..
I have had in my shop a women who worked in insurqnce underwriting for 20 years assemble her engine..
And I had a 18 year old high school girl assember her engine..Both started on about the 3rd turn of the crank and ran for years..
Both were what I call "warmed up"...eg high 10s in comp and a nice fun Stage 1 rally cam..

Maybe later is fine..It is of course better to sit down and do stuff at one whack..you don't forget steps as easily.
(But for that I gave each of those 2 a pencil and said "Check off right there in the book each step"..and checked that they were doing it..

Think of this..in the late 80s at Saab the yearly turnover on the assembly line was nearly 80-85%
The daily absentee rate was about 27%.
It was not long-service veterans and highly motivated people putting these cars together.

If they could do it, you can do it..

The title of this is "mild N/A for (ice) racing.."
Not "tarted up limp dick street car"..

A race motor that you can safely beat on hard will cost some money..
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:37 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by speedn_j View Post
I'm googling it right now. Looks a lil more involved than I was hoping. Changing the brake booster and master cylinder, different distributor..all seems like it would take a few dozen j/y trips to get 16v specific parts and probably over a grand of cash.
Sounds like you'd want to do this in a 240...?

That price is pretty realistic ($1k). You can keep the stock booster and get the intake runners shortened 2in, clears everything just fine.
Skip the dizzy and run wasted spark using the Buchka board or microsquirt.
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Old 08-18-2017, 05:55 PM   #33
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Sounds like you'd want to do this in a 240...?

That price is pretty realistic ($1k). You can keep the stock booster and get the intake runners shortened 2in, clears everything just fine.
Skip the dizzy and run wasted spark using the Buchka board or microsquirt.
This was actually the first time I've heard of this swap. I'm by no means looking for a racecar or wanting to turbo. But keeping it n/a and adding 50hp seems legit. I just want more juice to fly up the grapevine and it'll need to be smogable. I'm keeping my eye out for parts
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:19 PM   #34
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So, baby steps. Sorry for thread necro. It has a "racing" "wiring harness" now and will be caged soon. I've taken the bold step of buying a tune-up kit. The foundation is nearly laid for the fun to begin.



Stupid Question: I'm being told that if an air intake significantly less restrictive than the stock airbox is used, it may confuse the MAF and cause some undesirable condition. The plan at the moment is to enlarge the hole in the firewall that used to have heater core sticking out, run the intake into the passenger compartment, and run whatever decent pod filter. I'm not looking for power, just to keep it out of spray. Is any of that forewarning accurate, or will opening this up have no ill effect?

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Old 10-23-2017, 08:42 AM   #35
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Put a 90* bend before the MAF so the air is not moving straight through it and it'll be fine
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:49 AM   #36
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But also the stock airbox is better than any cheap/small cone filter
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:21 AM   #37
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I believe you on pod filters, don't really care for or about them, but in this case since it'll be where it is, stock airbox is out.

Was thinking for now I might try to re-use the stock plastic hose that goes to the MAF/airbox, flip it backwards and run that through the firewall, and I guess stick a 90 on the end of that because sticking a pod filter directly on the MAF is apparently a bad idea.

Will need to figure some way of preventing the firewall from rubbing through the hose, but besides that, any other good reasons this is not a good plan?
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:31 AM   #38
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If you use the stock black hose oriented backwards the ports on it that feed air to the IAC and PCV will no longer be in the correct spots, but that shouldn't be too hard to fix.

You could also use some sort of flexible vacuum cleaner hose
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Old 10-23-2017, 02:36 PM   #39
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IAC is disconnected, don't really care about a stable idle. For the PCV system, I'm actually a little unclear on what I should do with that.

What's the worst that could happen if I eliminated the connection between the intake and the flame guard, and popped a little crankcase breather filter where the flame guard is now?
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:04 PM   #40
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You want a little vacuum in the crankcase to vent the blowby fumes out, and it helps the rings and various seals to seal a little better, which in turn gives you a little more power. Some people just run it to atmosphere like you described, or to the exhaust but it's not hard to add a catch can or feed it straight into the intake like it is stock.
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:37 PM   #41
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I was looking earlier and saw this, and intuitively it makes sense that with the link being before the throttle, that would mean it's only vacuum when the throttle is mostly closed, and when you're on it, it would vent, but since I also removed the IAC, I don't want it to be annoying to keep alive. Pulling that was one of the last things I did past weekend, rushing to leave before traffic, so I don't know how it idles right now without that. Don't know where that diagram is from either.

My baseline for success is working properly at 3/4-full throttle in race conditions, hanging in someone's roost without sucking in moisture or shorting something. The inconvenience I'm willing to endure in other situations is extreme, and refinement can come later.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:27 PM   #42
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Investing in the driver skill (practice!!!) is the best bang for the buck you can spend. Next is gearing.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:42 PM   #43
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Quote:
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and it helps the rings and various seals to seal a little better, which in turn gives you a little more power. .
You do know that it is primarily combustion pressure pushing the rings outward the makes for cylinder sealing don't you?
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:45 AM   #44
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driver skill
Workin on it

Quote:
gearing.
I read this car has a 4.10 rear, which seems sufficiently short for right now, and if I manage to eventually find all the manual trans parts, it should be the business. Plan is to weld it locked soon. Or maybe not at first, since the internet tells me not to, but we'll see.

Last edited by rwb; 10-27-2017 at 09:53 AM..
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:05 AM   #45
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You do know that it is primarily combustion pressure pushing the rings outward the makes for cylinder sealing don't you?
Pressure on one side, vacuum on the other
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:20 AM   #46
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:00 AM   #47
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Pressure on one side, vacuum on the other
Get serious.
1000-1800 PSI on one side.. -2-3psi on the other and the -2-3 psi is supposedly doing something..
Please explain. (you have not described how, you have asserted a thing happenens and asserted that it is somehow effective enough to give some thought to...the question is "how")
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:09 AM   #48
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https://bringatrailer.com/2017/10/25...-volvo-242-dl/

Do what this guy did
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:00 AM   #49
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Get serious.
1000-1800 PSI on one side.. -2-3psi on the other and the -2-3 psi is supposedly doing something..
Please explain. (you have not described how, you have asserted a thing happenens and asserted that it is somehow effective enough to give some thought to...the question is "how")
Is "-2-3" less than 0? Nowhere did I say it would make a big difference anyway. Let's not derail the thread
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:06 PM   #50
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No, go right ahead. Whether I'm losing power by getting rid of that PCV hose is worth about 20 minutes of work.

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If when this is done it's worth $30k, it means I won the lottery between now and then. Though I am curious what that "quick-ratio steering rack" is.

Last edited by rwb; 10-27-2017 at 10:47 PM..
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