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Old 11-04-2017, 07:39 PM   #51
rwb
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So I need to buy a hose. Kids, don't take off the IAC.

Another question; I have a relay and some wires that go into the top right corner of the radiator (from driver's perspective,) which seem to be for an aux cooling fan I don't have.

However, off of this comes the "HEATER FAN PRES SENS" for my non-ecc car, which I assume means a sensor which detects the presence of this fan. I disconnected all this stuff, and the car is running very rich. I don't know if these things are related, but that's my question: If the car doesn't have anything coming in to/from that sensor, what might happen? Or is FAN PRES something else?
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:45 PM   #52
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Is "-2-3" less than 0? Nowhere did I say it would make a big difference anyway. Let's not derail the thread
That is precisely what I am suggesting your "truthiness" type "wisdom' is doing...
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:47 PM   #53
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Don't worry, I'm going to vent PCV directly to a hookah pipe I'll be sucking on if the race is giving me agitas, so that's taken care of.
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:00 PM   #54
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No, go right ahead. Whether I'm losing power by getting rid of that PCV hose is worth about 20 minutes of work.



If when this is done it's worth $30k, it means I won the lottery between now and then. Though I am curious what that "quick-ratio steering rack" is.

Either Janne Sellholm in Sala or whasis name over on the coast in Gävle make guts for the 240 ZF PS rack so they rack over more per turn of the steering wheel..

A typical 240 ZF rack moves 55mm per turn of the wheel..
Those must around 65 or more mm per turn of the wheel..
I say that because I've compared those kits when I got one for some guy and sat it down next to a stock merkur XR4Ti ZF PS rack..
Xratty rack moved 64mm per turn..

Quicker steering response in a must when going really fast down skinny ass roads with lots of turns....People DO get behind, and if you get behind, you are going to prang the car...or slow down...

In the end the turns you feel at the wheel to go from full left to full right is around 3,4 turns in a stock PS rack (and a sluggarly 4,1--totally unacceptable) and these kits reduce the lock to lock to 2.5 turns --and the Xratty stock is 2,6..
For reference on my old rally car--a Saab 96 V4 stock was 2,7 turns and the stock up thru 1968 was 2,2 turns..Quick ratio stock.. The other rally car which is a Xratti with a Ford Sierra Cosworth 4x4 drivetrain had 2,6 stock and now is 1,9 turns..Quicker car needs quicker steering.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:28 AM   #55
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Right, was really just curious where I could get one. Sounds like it would be from somewhere far away, for lots of money. Oh well, thank you for the info though.

Will be working again today, one item will be to hook up the cooling fan relay I mentioned and see if that fixes the rich condition. Anyone is free to tell me this is a fool's errand.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:18 PM   #56
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I'm very dumb, and realized this morning why I was so confused by that relay, because I traced everything back and realized it had never been plugged into anything but battery and ground. So, the ECU wouldn't be dumping fuel on account of that.

I got it to a place where it would idle fine without IAC, but it still runs like **** and not just at idle so I'm not sure what I've done to make that happen besides PCV/IAC. It's probably a vacuum leak, but it'll be another week before I can look for that, and it's possible I've fouled the old plugs already.

I also shouldn't be dismissive of the steering rack idea, I just assume anything that isn't local dirty metal costs a fortune. Faster steering would be awesome, and it's something I'd like to keep in mind as this car turns into whatever it may become if it survives a season or two of ice. My real car has quick steering, it is something I prioritize.

Pictures! You all deserve to see the whole thing. Also, perfect for those of us who like to wire things lazily, my new favorite toys, magnetic third hands!
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:58 PM   #57
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I got it to a place where it would idle fine without IAC, but it still runs like **** and not just at idle so I'm not sure what I've done to make that happen besides PCV/IAC. It's probably a vacuum leak, but it'll be another week before I can look for that, and it's possible I've fouled the old plugs already.
I was never able to get mine to run "right" without the IAC, but i didn't really put much effort into it before getting a good used one. Depending on how the PCV is disconnected it can be a vacuum leak, if you left the flame trap and T fitting with its vacuum line to the manifold connected, so check for that

Also where in mass are ya? I'm in the northeast near Newburyport most of the time. Your woods look very similar to mine with the derelict rock walls everywhere
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:11 AM   #58
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I remember that i left the hose that goes to the stock airbox disconnected, but do not remember if I plugged anything else connected to that. I plugged a vacuum leak on the top of the manifold but it sounds like this is underneath. Could be it, will check next weekend.

I am in Boston; the car is up around the middle of NH where all the water is.
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:16 PM   #59
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I remember that i left the hose that goes to the stock airbox disconnected, but do not remember if I plugged anything else connected to that. I plugged a vacuum leak on the top of the manifold but it sounds like this is underneath. Could be it, will check next weekend.

I am in Boston; the car is up around the middle of NH where all the water is.
Cool cool, I take class in south boston. You probably already tried this but spray ether around the intake area to help identify vac leaks if that is your problem. Also a new O2 sensor could help, but make sure there are no exhaust leaks before the sensor before splurging for another one. There is a way to test the current one with a multimeter but i don't remember how on the top of my head. You can get a generic bosch one (i forget the part #) but it'll require you to splice the old connector on but i'll cost you much less than the volvo one with the correct connector.
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Old 01-29-2018, 05:57 PM   #60
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Update. Sending it as a limp-dick street car. Basic prep took all the time. Apparently turbos are allowed now anyway so this thread is pointless but for random questions I have as I break things.

Pics or it didn't happen:


Bad driving:
https://youtu.be/CC4Omcb3pz4
https://youtu.be/nV9yG8Afe8c

Long story short, need some ideas for the radiator. This is the current situation:



Yes that's cardboard and rope. Obviously I need a more robust solution before the car receives much more damage.

Bearing in mind that this car will only be used in short bursts for the foreseeable future, could I get away with using a smaller aluminum radiator, or relocating, or both?
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:22 PM   #61
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Why not beef up the radiator mount with more metal, say weld some metal bars across the top and bottom of where you want to mount the radiator, up front like stock, or in the back seat area? I don't see a problem other then you just need to mount it stronger is all? But if you want to crash into things then put it out back if that's allowed.
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:34 PM   #62
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Just get a hammer, and beat that front end metal back to near where it belongs, then add some structure until the radiator doesn't move. Also go turbo. I am still pissed at myself for racing a 240 for 7 years before boosting it.
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:59 PM   #63
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sbabbs, welding is a bit of a bugbear at a moment, I have no experience myself and no one who's good at it likes me enough to do that much of it on the cheap. Ideally, it would be reinforced from the strut towers forward (at the frame) with something beefy protecting the radiator and its mounting points.

I don't really want to crash into anyone but I'd like to hedge my bets, so I could put a little eBay Honda radiator in the right rear window hole and it would be fine, provided that would actually cool the engine sufficiently. Note, no gauges yet. I have some, not installed.

Trevor, it's out of whack beyond hammer correction range. Frame is bent downwards slightly, plan is to strap it to trailer and jack it to straighten a bit, and then I figure I'll have to address my fear of welding.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/IvNS73z5RBypXWvR2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xpr0O5Eqa93YmWl72

At least it's a 740, right?

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Old 02-01-2018, 10:07 AM   #64
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That looks so fun
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:47 PM   #65
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I've decided I'm going to stop being a ******* baby and get myself a welder. There's no reason to not be able to stick metal together. I don't have 220v+ right now so I'm going back and forth between an Hazard Fraught beater flux core and getting really drunk and buying a Hobart 120/240.

One reason besides reinforcement, is exhaust: I neglected to take off the stock exhaust so obviously it fell off and broke, at the back of the cat. I have no good way to support the cat now, so it's off and the flex pipe hangs, limp, like _ ____ __ _______.

Unfortunately this means the O2 sensor is nowhere near where it needs to be- you can see it tied to the dash bar in the videos, out in the cold. I had planned to get a no-weld bung and do something with the sad nub at the end of the flex pipe and and a little turn down or something, but if I can weld, I can do better.

Question is, how long can this run like this before I've made a mess inside the engine? I doubt I'll have time to address this saturday before racing Sunday, so it's at least going to spend another 15 whole minutes at full throttle before that O2 sensor is anywhere near exhaust.

Also, while I'd like to reinforce the front no matter what radiator is in there, I'm still a bit iffy about having one that is both partially plastic and old. A rad ain't rocket science, and the the scope of use is narrow, I could use almost whatever fits that isn't obvious garbage, right?

Last edited by rwb; 02-01-2018 at 08:03 PM..
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:11 PM   #66
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I have a Hobart 140, works great with gas and 110v. Maybe watch for a good deal on a Lincoln or similar on Craigslist?
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:37 PM   #67
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My concern with a 110v only welder was that I suspect I'm eventually going to be working with relatively thick material. Plenty of great deals on both 110 and 220 welders on CL, but no one seems to want to sell their 120/220. Refurbished, the cheapest Hobart that can do both is within range of what I can convince myself I could afford, again if I drink enough, while a refurb 140 is actually pretty enticing. $419.99, good number. I do have some access to larger welders, I just like to have my own stuff.

Have you encountered a situation in which your 140 broke a sweat?

I really need a steering wheel quick-disconnect, which would mean welding an adapter onto the solid steering shaft, that I assume would definitely need a big weld...

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Old 02-01-2018, 10:55 PM   #68
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You'll be able to get that all done with a 110 welder, just go for it.

You really need one of these too, it will be a major step towards functioning race car. get the 2:1 ratio instead of the 1.5:1.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...SABEgKatvD_BwE

put it in while you do the wheel quick release

Ice racing looks so fun, I'm totally jelly.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:58 PM   #69
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You can get a lot done with a 110 welder, just go for it.


Ice racing looks so fun, I'm totally jelly.
Truth. My Hobart on 110 will easily to 1/8in in a single pass. I've done 1/4 and 3/8in with a good bevel.
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:01 PM   #70
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My concern with a 110v only welder was that I suspect I'm eventually going to be working with relatively thick material. Plenty of great deals on both 110 and 220 welders on CL, but no one seems to want to sell their 120/220. Refurbished, the cheapest Hobart that can do both is within range of what I can convince myself I could afford, again if I drink enough, while a refurb 140 is actually pretty enticing. $419.99, good number. I do have some access to larger welders, I just like to have my own stuff.

Have you encountered a situation in which your 140 broke a sweat?

I really need a steering wheel quick-disconnect, which would mean welding an adapter onto the solid steering shaft, that I assume would definitely need a big weld...
I do light car related fab and repair work. Haven't needed anything bigger yet, but I'm no Buchka with mad crazy fabbing skills either.

I got mine off of CL $600. It was never used (new) and had a cart, a full bottle and a couple large spools of wire. I was looking for something like a Lincoln in good used condition for $400ish. The shiny newness sold me though.

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Old 02-01-2018, 11:27 PM   #71
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I'm getting feelings. What size bottle is that? & of what?

also nice floor
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:29 PM   #72
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dang, great CL find!
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Old 02-02-2018, 12:37 AM   #73
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Oh God I just bought a welder
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:21 AM   #74
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Nice. I hope you got the hobart. I started with a lincoln flux core. That was a huge mistake, but I was able to sell it for what I paid. I have the miller version of that hobart, and use it 75% of the time, and it sticks 1/8" together fine, which I almost never do bigger than that. I checked out your video, and was sad to find out you are very far away from me. I would like to come out and do some ice racing.
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Old 02-05-2018, 02:08 AM   #75
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Oh God I just bought a welder
Make sure you get a 2lb spool of 030 and a spool of 035 wire..Helps immensely with welding thicker than .125 wall stuff.
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