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Old 02-05-2018, 10:50 AM   #76
rwb
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Yep, Hobart 210 refurb. Buy once cry once. I don't anticipate ever needing anything else.

John, will definitely be getting some decent 30/35 wire immediately plus someone's off-cut scraps to sequester myself with.

Update: broke the car. Dusted a rear brake line and there's power steering fluid everywhere. I had to hurry to put it on a trailer and wave goodbye so I don't know if that's a hose gone or what.

Last weekend I broke a few cross links on the passenger car-grade V bar chains I was using, and I suspect that clipped the brake line, and this week it disintegrated. I'm now using basically customized logger truck chains* and I suspect they stick out enough, and the wheel deflects enough, that they could maybe come into contact with lines again even without breaking. Two options: 1) Longer brake lines, and secure them up in the wheelwell, 2) lower-offset wheels to poke 'em out a bit, flare fenders. First is cheaper, 2nd looks cooler. Either a terrible idea?

* Apparently, these are arguably worse than V bars unless sharpened, which I did not know. Mine are also far too loose. They should look like this.

On the steering rack, I was pretty hot on the quickener idea, but after making a mess I'm wondering if the extra stress on the rack is really a great move? Again I don't know if I just popped a line or what, but if I can rip on the thing twice as fast, is this going to happen all the time?

Very hard ice on Sun, lots of incidents and broken cars, couple flips. Steering rack has its work cut out:

https://youtu.be/E8_L89dhoX8 (can't drive an automatic transmission)
https://youtu.be/Higz8jFSZ3Q (can't do a pace lap, or drive at all)

Last edited by rwb; 02-05-2018 at 08:06 PM..
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Old 02-05-2018, 11:50 AM   #77
NotSoFresh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwb View Post




Long story short, need some ideas for the radiator. This is the current situation:
Is that a sunroof? Put the rad in the sunroof hole and put the fan on top blowing down. It will warm the driver......

edit: though if the rad fails or a hose comes off, it may over-warm the driver.....Wear goretex over the nomex over the thinsulate over the hairy manchest. Its the northern way.

Last edited by NotSoFresh; 02-05-2018 at 12:08 PM..
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:02 PM   #78
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edit, nvm, you got a welder
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Old 02-05-2018, 03:47 PM   #79
Tuff240
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Looks pretty fun actually. My favorite part would be dodging spinning cars while full speed through a turn. That's a real arse puckerer.

You need a manual so your feet can dance like your arms.

You need some grip. What do you have for rear shocks?

When you are really close to spinning out, don't let off the throttle completely. It transfers weight off the rear to the front which causes you to spin out for sure. Keep a little throttle on and once in a while you will be able to save it.

Try lowering the rear of your car a little so it squats more. You'll get less weight transfer to the front when off throttle and it will help with forward propulsion a little.
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:20 PM   #80
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Looks pretty fun actually. My favorite part would be dodging spinning cars while full speed through a turn. That's a real arse puckerer.
Yep, with an added element of shame when you're being dodged.

Quote:
You need a manual so your feet can dance like your arms.
I'd love one.

Quote:
You need some grip. What do you have for rear shocks?
Old ones. Traction is a bit of a long story, shocks wouldn't hurt for sure, but weren't the biggest problem. Getting chains right is taking some trial and error. Here is a picture of the huge chunks of tread hogged out as chain rotated on tire. In the picture of the correct, sharpened chains, you can see that the cross links are deep into the carcass, and compare to mine, which are not. When they're loose, you're just skating on the side of the stud, they don't bite consistently. Tightening will be near-impossible without tire tools but it needs to be done.

I'm going to be spending the next week of evenings sharpening all of those studs, and I'm putting off doing so by typing this.

Quote:
When you are really close to spinning out, don't let off the throttle completely. It transfers weight off the rear to the front which causes you to spin out for sure. Keep a little throttle on and once in a while you will be able to save it.

Try lowering the rear of your car a little so it squats more. You'll get less weight transfer to the front when off throttle and it will help with forward propulsion a little.
All good advice, once I solve the chain problems so that my inputs have more consistent results, and fix the car, I will consider that. I am loathe to lose travel, the ruts get big. Sprint cars and big-wing modifieds tear that **** up.

This is the left front tire:

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Old 02-05-2018, 08:47 PM   #81
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Wow, those are some gnarly chains (front and rear)!

Have you tried switching the spiked front to the outside instead? Might tend to pull the front end down and behind less (does that make sense?)? Seems like it would turn in better also. But I've never raced on ice, only dirt, so take anything I'm saying with a grain of salt.

I was thinking stock Bilstein HD's for the rear since they are kind of soft (traction) and dampen really well (more traction). You could probably pick up a set of used ones on here for not too much money.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:05 PM   #82
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I had the same questions about the spiking the inside front.

I started with ANSI size 60 roller chain on both, no spikes. Those quickly fell off (1st turn of first race, swap sides, 3rd turn of 2nd race,) so I just had bald front tires, thankfully no video of how that went.

After much discussion with some folks who win all the time and have this dialed, I sized up to 80 chain, got some take-offs with center grooves they could slot into from behind local tire stores, and put those snowmobile picks on the inside. I was told putting them outside can bite too much and get weird, but honestly I haven't tried it. They weren't feeding me a line, they're all set up this way and I'm actually relatively happy with the front end, back is just whackadoo. I have had an inkling to maybe add 6 spikes to the outside, wide-spaced, just to try it out, see what happens. Maybe later.

Next time I'm near the car I'll take a look at the rear shocks. I kinda want to say they might actually be Bilsteins but my memory sucks, and they're still old regardless.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:14 PM   #83
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Also, I've somehow forgotten to mention all this, but:

This is the Lakes Region Ice Racing Club, in Moultonborough, NH. Anyone who can should come out, schedule is on the website, lrirc.com, more on facebook.com/LRIRC. It's every weekend as long as the ice is OK. They put on a good event, everyone is extremely nice and welcoming, and forget this stupid Volvo, watching 410 sprint cars on ice is ****ing incredible.
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:25 PM   #84
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I have received word that the fluid is leaking from "the middle of the rack" and the hoses are fine, which seems pretty worst-case to me.

So, current open questions:

1) Can the power steering system be used dry, under severe duty, or does this need fixed before use lest bad things happen?

2) If I get another standard 740 rack, and put a 2:1 quickener in front of it, will it become a consumable?

3) About how long can I run with the O2 sensor in the passenger compartment before I've ruined plugs &c.?
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Old 02-06-2018, 08:27 PM   #85
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1) Yes, several people on the forum run them as manual racks.

2) Most likely. I've blown out a few racks on my lifted wagon when playing on our oval dirt "track" on our property. It doesn't like having to steer those giant ass tires all that much.

3) Just a little bit longer than you already have. Weld a bung in with your new welder!
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Old 02-07-2018, 02:56 PM   #86
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To run the steering as a manual rack, do I need to loop any lines? I assume I need a new belt to not spin the power steering pump, too?

I would really rather have power steering and would rather not put too much effort into a stopgap until I can find a new rack, but if this is easy and gets the car moving for Sunday it'll do.

I posted in the maintenance area trying to figure out if I can just buy a rack "for a 740" or if it needs to be the same type that's in there now, I'm going to spam that link here because I'd need something basically overnight at this point to get ready for this weekend if that's even possible.

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=339568
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:14 PM   #87
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Problem was blown hardline above steering rack, well hidden. I was lucky to find this without dropping the rack, PITA that is on this car. I was told it was like the 240, U-bolts. If only.

FYI, 12mm brass bubble flare adapters fit the hard line connectors, and brake line fits into that. Seems to work, if you ever blow a line on at least a ZF power steering rack.
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