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Old 09-22-2017, 10:31 AM   #51
Pasis
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Maxspeedingrods quite rudely made, and some models are quite heavy.
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:36 PM   #52
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Maxspeedingrods quite rudely made, and some models are quite heavy.
All the aftermarket h-beam rods are made by like 2 places in China. They are all the same.
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:40 PM   #53
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Maybe. But if you pick up the connecting rods like carrillo and Chinese, you will see the difference with your eyes armed ...
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Old 09-22-2017, 02:08 PM   #54
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Maybe. But if you pick up the connecting rods like carrillo and Chinese, you will see the difference with your eyes armed ...
You can buy a set of B6284T rods from Carrillo?
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Old 09-22-2017, 03:09 PM   #55
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You can buy a set of B6284T rods from Carrillo?
Carrillo will make any rod you want. Get them on the phone and tell them want you want. I sent them a connecting rod for an old turbo Kawasaki build I had going and it was great working with them.

http://www.cp-carrillo.com/pt-3508-rods.html

Click the "custom order form" tab and have at it.
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Nothing's black magic. Basics to moderate power levels are cake, period. Start off rich and retarded, like your president.
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Old 09-22-2017, 03:29 PM   #56
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Carrillo will make any rod you want. Get them on the phone and tell them want you want. I sent them a connecting rod for an old turbo Kawasaki build I had going and it was great working with them.

http://www.cp-carrillo.com/pt-3508-rods.html

Click the "custom order form" tab and have at it.
Yes I saw that tab... How much did they finally charge you for the rod?
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Old 09-22-2017, 04:17 PM   #57
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Was about $275 a rod all said and done.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:04 PM   #58
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Was about $275 a rod all said and done.
Holy hell, my wallet just squealed like a pig.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:09 PM   #59
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Holy hell, my wallet just squealed like a pig.
Thats the price to be paid to have a quality built rod. I'm not saying the China rods are bad, but if I'm investing my time and money into something I want a quality product. I'll be contacting them shortly to get started on my b6284t build, and I'll report back the details.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:10 PM   #60
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Thats the price to be paid to have a quality built rod. I'm not saying the China rods are bad, but if I'm investing my time and money into something I want a quality product. I'll be contacting them shortly to get started on my b6284t build, and I'll report back the details.
Because you are shooting for 1000+hp?
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Old 09-23-2017, 01:15 AM   #61
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Because you are shooting for 1000+hp?
I would like to see 550-600whp to start.
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Old 09-23-2017, 02:17 AM   #62
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I would like to see 550-600whp to start.
The China rods are more than strong enough for that at a fraction of the cost of custom made Carrillo's.

Better off reading people's threads that actually make power and use their cars with the motor you are wanting to use. People like Lankku.
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Old 09-23-2017, 07:22 AM   #63
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In Russia it is very popular to use automatic aisin on Toyota for drag racing. And already quite a few cars are do 8-9 seconds with these transmissions. The Volvo has a very similar transmission, so I thought that it could be upgraded for use at high power.

You write that you are using the 1.8 mothronic for 300 hp cars. And how does this ECU understand that there is a boost? Or are you together with the standard ECU, use another megasquirt for the second row of injectors?
Then there must be some other mods than just a basic shift kit? And I'd think that after that it's not the best place for a regular enthusiast to spend money.

Wrote "under 300hp" 2.5l with T6 turbos made about 260hp(according to 1/4mile pass) and my current daily has been dynoed for 278hp @ 0.5bar with HX40. Both with bone stock Motronic 1.8, T6 injectors, 0.5-1.0bar higher fuel pressure and E85. I've driven the latter about 16000km/10000miles since last February.


Basic Chinise/MaxSpeeding/SPM/Eagle/etc. rods are what I've been using all the time and my friend also has those in his +1000hp engine. They all look basically the same. Never had any problems considering durability.

I'll put out one example considering the durability of Chinise rods. Had a major breakdown due to ignition problems, broke headgasket and the pressure even cracked outside wall of the block from the intake side. Along with this the engine had a severe hydrolock and two Wössner piston pins bent. No damage whatsoever on the rods or HD pistons. Everything inspected in a machine shop. I'm still using those rods and pistons(with stock Volvo pins) and have had some track time with 1.7bar boost(K31).

If someone wants to spend more money on rods, go ahead. But I don't think there's nothing more to gain than just a little less rotating weight.
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:02 AM   #64
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Was about $275 a rod all said and done.


I'll pass... Not planning on building an NHRA top fuel engine...
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Old 09-23-2017, 02:49 PM   #65
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The China rods are more than strong enough for that at a fraction of the cost of custom made Carrillo's.

Better off reading people's threads that actually make power and use their cars with the motor you are wanting to use. People like Lankku.
I agree with you 100%, I was just going to come back with what it would cost in case others were interested for whatever reason. I have incentives to buy Carrillo products, which is why I use them in my engines instead of cheaper alternatives.
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:12 AM   #66
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You can buy a set of B6284T rods from Carrillo?
If desired, to order, they make connecting rods for any engines. As well as a pauter and many other companies. It certainly will take longer and more expensive.
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:27 AM   #67
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Then there must be some other mods than just a basic shift kit? And I'd think that after that it's not the best place for a regular enthusiast to spend money.

Wrote "under 300hp" 2.5l with T6 turbos made about 260hp(according to 1/4mile pass) and my current daily has been dynoed for 278hp @ 0.5bar with HX40. Both with bone stock Motronic 1.8, T6 injectors, 0.5-1.0bar higher fuel pressure and E85. I've driven the latter about 16000km/10000miles since last February.


Basic Chinise/MaxSpeeding/SPM/Eagle/etc. rods are what I've been using all the time and my friend also has those in his +1000hp engine. They all look basically the same. Never had any problems considering durability.

I'll put out one example considering the durability of Chinise rods. Had a major breakdown due to ignition problems, broke headgasket and the pressure even cracked outside wall of the block from the intake side. Along with this the engine had a severe hydrolock and two Wössner piston pins bent. No damage whatsoever on the rods or HD pistons. Everything inspected in a machine shop. I'm still using those rods and pistons(with stock Volvo pins) and have had some track time with 1.7bar boost(K31).

If someone wants to spend more money on rods, go ahead. But I don't think there's nothing more to gain than just a little less rotating weight.

Yes, of course, these are not exactly standard transmissions. But up to 500 hp. almost standard transmissions on Toyota are maintained. There are a lot of such cars in Russia.

If I correctly understood you, the standard 1.8 motronic can handle the correct work on the boost to 0.5? MAF sensor is also stock? That is, the sensor sensor counts the air flow, and on this basis the standard Motronic 1.8 with turbo can add fuel, through more efficient injectors and higher fuel pressure? Is this enough for the correct operation of the motor at a power of about 280 hp? Do you think this trick will work correctly on the 4.4 motronic? I think my 2.9 engine may require a repair soon, so I'm thinking about replacing it with a 2.8 turbo. .... I will have enough 250-270 hp. But the problem is that I can not use e85, it is not sold in our country. Only 95-98th gasoline. Car for daily trips.
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Old 09-24-2017, 03:19 PM   #68
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If I correctly understood you, the standard 1.8 motronic can handle the correct work on the boost to 0.5? MAF sensor is also stock? That is, the sensor sensor counts the air flow, and on this basis the standard Motronic 1.8 with turbo can add fuel, through more efficient injectors and higher fuel pressure? Is this enough for the correct operation of the motor at a power of about 280 hp? Do you think this trick will work correctly on the 4.4 motronic? I think my 2.9 engine may require a repair soon, so I'm thinking about replacing it with a 2.8 turbo. .... I will have enough 250-270 hp. But the problem is that I can not use e85, it is not sold in our country. Only 95-98th gasoline. Car for daily trips.
It would seem so. E85 makes it easier considering ignition advance. Haven't driven in the dyno to check how much advance it gives. Would guess that it's too much for 95 or 98.

For gasoline uou could "cheat" with bigger injectors and air mass meter just like with LH2.4. Easiest choice would be to find someone who could do a custom chip. Motronic 4.4 is similar/same in 5-cylinder engines, so someone with the knowledge to customize those should be able to do it(?). Best choice would be of course MS2 V3 or similar. Small modifications to wiring, IAT sensor and it's ready to run.
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:33 AM   #69
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Lankku, do you have any pictures of how you filled the gaps between the cylinders and the block? I guess the principal is pretty simple but I'd be interested to see an example.
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:06 AM   #70
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Lankku, do you have any pictures of how you filled the gaps between the cylinders and the block? I guess the principal is pretty simple but I'd be interested to see an example.
https://lankku.kuvat.fi/kuvat/245+GL...us/Lohko+2016/
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:10 AM   #71
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That's it?!? What was the thickness of these small metal plates?
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:39 AM   #72
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That's it?!? What was the thickness of these small metal plates?
In the photo you can see the metal plates that are inserted between the cylinders, about which he spoke.
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:56 AM   #73
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Were you referring to this? Courtesy of Lankku's build thread in his signature.

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Old 09-25-2017, 11:42 AM   #74
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In the photo you can see the metal plates that are inserted between the cylinders, about which he spoke.
Yes I saw the metal plates. I was asking you what is the thickness of these plates.
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:50 AM   #75
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Depends if the cylinders are warped or not, get yourself a feeler gauge (spelling?) and measure the gaps
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